Discussion Topic |
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| Messages 1 - 29 of total 29 in this topic |
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Nov 11, 2016 - 10:13pm PT
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That is pretty hard core. Triple mileage plus the added pressure to not have another person checking your rope management and safety systems when you are tired.
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Byran
climber
Half Dome Village
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Nov 12, 2016 - 12:35am PT
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What'd he belay with? A silent partner?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 12, 2016 - 02:53am PT
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Good question...way impressive regardless.
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batguano
climber
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Nov 12, 2016 - 03:49am PT
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I could be wrong, but I thought Pete onsighted free rider last year?
Heard from a friend of his that he was planning on using a silent partner.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 12, 2016 - 04:00am PT
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Mark my words, that boy is going places!
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Ian Parsons
climber
UK, England
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Nov 13, 2016 - 05:48am PT
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I don't think it quite looks like anything on the actual Salathé; is it one of the pitches in the final independent section of Freerider up the left side of the Salathé Headwall?
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 13, 2016 - 08:08am PT
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Thanks, Ian. I stand corrected in not catching up with the times, in which major variations are considered separate routes, as they should. As an aside Robbins named the entire South West wall of El Cap, from the nose to the West Buttress, the Salathe Wall. It didn't stick; new routes became Walls. Now they just have names.
Nice looking picture.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 13, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^Wow - that's a shot.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Nov 13, 2016 - 01:38pm PT
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Radical... uncompromising... the man's a beast...
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Nov 13, 2016 - 04:12pm PT
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Roger here it is turned...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 13, 2016 - 07:40pm PT
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I think the visual impact of these two pictures is very striking. Mikey Schaefer's picture shows the dark, roiling, rock under the climbing and accentuates the steepness of the climb. Even the climber seems to be in desperate straits. The Whittaker picture looks like a 5.7 squeeze chimney on a sea of alpenglow.
I even think that the two climbers are in more-or-less the same position in the crack.
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Nov 23, 2017 - 09:28am PT
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As for the silent partner: You can watch the video on youtube and pause to see his set-up. He's using it about as minimally as you can. Full on trusting the device. No back up from what I can see knot wise or other. Pretty solid endorsement. It's a hassle to tie and untie knots when climbing something hard. Can't let go mid crux to diddle with stuff.......
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 23, 2017 - 09:33am PT
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He's using it about as minimally as you can. Full on trusting the device. No back up ...
Yes, that's how the real pros do it.
You can't imitate, or you will die.
The gear is just there for psychological benefit.
You can't fall, and if you do then you are at the mercy of providence and your own destiny ......
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 23, 2017 - 11:46am PT
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Wow, and I was just thinking yesterday, as beautiful as it was, that what Honnold has done will be a curse on El Cap. What Honnold did was amazing but it's a dead end street. There's nothing wrong with gear hanging on a climber. It's every bit as spiritual. Like everyone else though, I can't wait to see Honnold's El Cap Video. How disgusting is that?! LOL.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 23, 2017 - 12:29pm PT
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Is he "Big" Jim Whittaker's son?
Either way, way to go, Pete!
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Nov 23, 2017 - 01:44pm PT
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Whoops.....deleted previous post because just noticed date! (Obviously done before Honnold's free solo). Well, hopefully we can glean tools used.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 24, 2017 - 12:18pm PT
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Dude, I responded to the post you deleted. What did the dating of the climb have to do with it?
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wstmrnclmr
Trad climber
Bishop
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Nov 24, 2017 - 02:35pm PT
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Sorry McHale! I made a mistake in thinking Whittaker's ascent was after Honnold's solo. So I mistakenly thought that proclamations of the feat as being a progression a bit presumptuous. But now knowing it was before, it would have been possibly very significant until Honnold pulled of his feat which superceded just about every sporting event maybe of the new millenium.
Hopefully not a dead end as you suggest but a forceful return to where the intent of the original "freeclimbing" was taking climbing. Towards less tecnology and towards a more minimalistic, simplistic, and possibly (dare I say) humanistc way for climbing. But perhaps it is equally humanistic to make tools we are capable of to ally our fears and weaknesses. Whittaker's feat certainly pushed for a return hopefully to a future towards less technology and reliance on others. Honnold's being one big giant exclamation on these thoughts.....
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
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Nov 24, 2017 - 03:34pm PT
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Pete's climb is still very significant in the world of what people are likely to be doing. Honnold's achievement is in the realm of what people are not likely to be doing. I appreciate your enthusiasm and idealism but there are probably more people trying to figure out how to rope solo big routes more effectively, rather than how free-solo them.
In general, I don't think humans have the capacity to regularly do what Honnold did. Most people can't even comprehend the background of the achievement, even the number of times he did the route roped up before. It's not like he truly free-soled it. The preparation was done using ropes. How do you separate that out? Sure, he's done much free-soloing, but for most free-solos he has done, there has been rope preparation on the same routes. I just think that maybe you should keep the 'Gear' in the proper perspective.
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16f/newswire-whittaker-freerider-rope-solo
Let's see somebody rope-solo the Dawn Wall! It's the gear that let's us appreciate the walls the way we do. Everything else is icing....or something....
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Apr 22, 2018 - 08:17pm PT
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Holy workload Batman!!!
And you have to remind yourself that he's doing it all free.
Too bad there's no footage of the headwall pitches. F*#king outstanding effort!
When he's on that last pitch, he seems dangerously knackered.
And then looking back on it, he says that he felt he could have kept climbing.
'Atta boy, Pete!
How can you not like this guy? Same with his buddy.
.............................................
What Honnold did is athletically easier, meaning more fluid, cleaner, less overall effort. It's just that the headspace of Honnold's ascent is way out there in the solar system of human endeavor.
 Thanks much for posting up the full video, Matt!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Apr 22, 2018 - 09:12pm PT
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Whoa...
In terms of leading it all, rapping it all and jugging it all, the effort is mind numbing.
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Sep 15, 2018 - 01:31pm PT
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from the manufacturer
SB1
***The Silent Partner has been discontinued.
The Silent Partner is a solo climbing device that attaches to your rope with a clove hitch, and to your harness with two locking carabiners. The Silent Partner feeds automatically while you climb and its speed sensitive locking mechanism will catch even head-first falls. The Silent Partner can be released under full body weight and it can be used to lower yourself as needed to recover from a fall. Note that solo climbing is for experts only and requires special skills and acceptance of considerable risk and total responsibility.
This device will not keep you safe!
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| Messages 1 - 29 of total 29 in this topic |
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