Index of Yosemite Valley Climbs

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Messages 61 - 69 of total 69 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 19, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
He's got a million of them.
squishy

Mountain climber
sacramento
Mar 19, 2009 - 11:04pm PT
bump for being awesome...
scuffy b

climber
just below the San Andreas
Mar 20, 2009 - 09:11am PT
An idea for new lists, Ed.

You've got your Blue List (5.10a offwidth)
and the Pink List (5.10b offwidth)
and I presume more in that series

How about a Right Side In list and a
Left Side In list.

Yosemite climbers seem to think most everything is
Left Side In (you think I'm exaggerating, readers?)

I'll toss out a few Right Side In candidates, even including
perhaps a few guesses.

The Bin
Extra Credit
Chingando
Edge of Night
Secret Storm
Mental Block
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 15, 2010 - 03:52am PT
My version of Ed's list now includes a spreadsheet of first ascents by person and date. (yosfap.xls)
Check it out and tell me what climbs are missing, what mistakes are in there, etc.
[I know the pitch counts are off for many of the older routes]
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/update.htm

The main list is up to 2711 routes, which includes some duplicate pitches.
pc

climber
Mar 15, 2010 - 09:12am PT
Ed, Clint, Great stuff. Thanks a million.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Mar 15, 2010 - 09:34am PT
You know Clint, if there was a separate column with the date of the first free ascent then you could do a sort by difficult, secondary sort by date and quickly find the date of the first 10a and the first 12b etc....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 15, 2010 - 11:47pm PT
Mike,

It would be more like a "Free Date" column, since many routes were freed on the FA and don't have a separate FFA.
You can get the info on first 5.10a, 5.12b, etc. with a little more effort by sorting yos.xls on year (FA), then by nrating, then check the first ascent column to check the FFA date.

For example, if you wanted to find the earliest 5.8, the earliest one without an FFA is:
Sentinel Rock - Northeast Bowl 5.8 A1, John Salathe, Anton Nelson, 6/1948
5.8s with earlier FAs all had FFAs after 1948.
However, this is not decisive, because there might exist some climbs done before 1948.06 which were 5.8 A_ but were freed at a higher grade.
We wouldn't know for sure unless we checked the original ratings before climbs were freed.
I believe Ed's version includes the original ratings, or at least some guidebook ratings for many climbs before they were freed.
Also the rating for Sentinel NE Bowl might reflect how people climbed it in 1971, but the 5.8 parts might have been aided in 1948.
So it's probably not the best example.

For a purely free 5.8:
Overhang Route 5.8, FFA: Mark Powell, Bill Feuerer, 1956
by comparison with the earliest 5.8s without a separate FFA (all done in 1958):
Split Pinnacle - East Arete 5.8 **, Chuck Pratt, Krehe Ritter, 1958
Watkins Pinnacles - from Tenaya Canyon 5.8, Gary Hemming, Dick Long, Jim Wilson, Larry Lackey, 5/1958
The Cookie - Original 5.8, Chuck Pratt, Dick Sykes, 8/1958
Arrowhead Spire - Northeast Side 5.8, John Fiske, Dick Scheible, 8/1958
and also (my rating):
Arrowhead Arete 5.9 **, Mark Powell, Bill Feuerer, 10/1956

First 5.9 is easy (and predates first 5.8):
Higher Cathedral Spire - Regular Route 5.9 **, FFA: Chuck Wilts, Spencer Austin, 1944
(I believe this was the first recorded FFA in the Valley)

5.10a-d
Rixon's Pinnacle - East Chimney 5.10a *, FFA: Royal Robbins, Dave Rearick, 1960
Reed's Leads 5.10b (originally rated 5.9), Wally Reed, Mike Borghoff, 1963
Split Pinnacle Lieback 5.10c, FA(rap): Dave Rearick, Mort Hempel, 6/1961
Twilight Zone 5.10d **, Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredericks, 9/1965

5.11a-d (but remember, Slack Center and Serenity Crack were freed in 1967, and rated 5.11 in the 1971 Roper guidebook)
Butterfingers 5.11a **, Jim Bridwell, Charley Jones, 8/1971
Cream 5.11a **, Mark Klemens, et al, 8/1971
The Hourglass - Left Side 5.11a R *, FFA: Peter Haan, Rick Linkert, Mike Farrell, 9/1971
Swan Slab Aid Route 5.11b *, FFA: Loyd Price, et al, 1967
General Hospital 5.11c R, Rik Rieder, Phil Gleason, Chris Wegener, 1972
Abstract Corner 5.11d **, Jim Bridwell, et al, 1971

5.12a-d
Hotline 5.12a ***, FFA: Ron Kauk, John Bachar, 1975
Tongue and Groove 5.12a, Andreas Maurer, 1975
Fish Crack 5.12b **, FP(cleaned): Ron Kauk, Werner Braun, by 1975; FA: Henry Barber, et al, 1975
Hang Dog Flyer 5.12c **, Ray Jardine, John Lakey, 1976
Owl Roof 5.12c, FA(using chockstone placed by Bridwell): Tom Higgins, 1973; FFA(chockstone removed): Dale Bard, [not Jardine], by 1977
Tunnel Vision 5.12d *, John Bachar, et al, 1982

5.13a-d
The Phoenix 5.13a ***, Ray Jardine, John Lakey, 5/1977
Cosmic Debris 5.13b ***, Bill Price, et al, 5/1980
Excellent Adventure 5.13c, FFA: Peter Croft, 1987
Book of Hate 5.13d, Randy Leavitt, 1999

5.14a-b
Nose Free 5.14a, FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993
Magic Line 5.14b, FFA: Ron Kauk, 1997
Meltdown 5.14, Beth Rodden, 2/08

The above might make a cool tick list!

You can also sort by type, to find the first 5.10a slab, first 5.10a thin crack, lieback, etc.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2013 - 12:03pm PT
bump for sean
tinker b

climber
the commonwealth
Jun 1, 2013 - 06:28pm PT
bad ass.
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