Index of Yosemite Valley Climbs

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 24, 2004 - 09:39pm PT
As promised, after subjecting you all to the "Obscurities" thread, is the comprehensive index of Yosemite Valley Climbs that I have been putting together. It includes something like 2200 climbs from a variety of sources. I have also added the comprehensive list of wall climbs that Chris posted and the SuperTopo community updated recently.

I'd like to thank Clint Cummins, Greg Barnes, Eric Gompers, Chris McNamara, Greg Murphy, Steve Cassels, Gary Carpenter, Karl Baba and all of you who volunteered information in the previous thread...

http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/eph-climbing.html

To those of you who got an advanced copy, this version incorporates changes you suggested, thanks!
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Jan 24, 2004 - 11:20pm PT
This is totally awesome, Ed. How many hours…? Nice layout with the guidebook references. This is a great reference that should be passed on to all. Thanks!!!!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2004 - 01:04pm PT
Minerals - I've been working on it in odd hours since just before the post of the first "Obscurities" thread, early December... this jogged Chris' memory about his big wall index project, which then added some work for me. In addition, there were replies, both to the thread and via email, which I needed to address in the "alpha" release.

There is the rumor of an updated Reid "Free Climbs" guide being assembled. My assumption is that there will be a lot more climbs reported. The editors of that guide should really check the correctness of the index (Reid '94 has a lot of errors), and should consider bringing the climbing history appendix into area conformance, though there is no info on a lot of climbs more specific then their current area designations.

There are other geographical issues every guidebook author has to deal with... more on this later.

Of the current literature, I have been unable to locate the Falkenstein book "Yosemite Valley Sport Climbs". Michael Chessler has it on his web site, but replied to me in email that they don't have any in stock and have been unable to get any from the publisher. It's out of print and nowhere to be found!

There are still a lot of obscure climbs, by which I mean incomplete information. There are a class of climbs which essentially have vanished due to geological activity (kind of cool, acutally).

I had in mind a few research projects that required some sort of organized data base. Now that I have done it, I'm probably going to wait a few months before digging into the data... I was starting to get good humored laughs from my wife everytime she found me bent over my powerbook working on the list, with piles of guidebooks, topographical maps and xeroxed articles from Climbing magazine surrounding me... but it's done!
Strider

Big Wall climber
Bay Area, Ca
Jan 25, 2004 - 07:17pm PT
Ed, I have to say that you have done an AWESOME job here. I had thought about doing something like this but quickly abandoned the idea because it was over my head. Obviously you were more than up to the task. Your in Livermore, I am in the South Bay area, drop me an email some time and I will be more than happy to to buy you a beer. Good Job!

-n
Jody

Mountain climber
CA
Jan 25, 2004 - 10:40pm PT
I checked them off and there are only 8 climbs I have to do to complete the list...

Just kidding...actually, I downloaded it and couldn't open it because I don't have Excel. Is there any way I can open it without Excel?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2004 - 10:59pm PT
Jody, you can't open the .xls file without Excel I will save a copy as a "comma separated" file (.csv) and post that too for those without evil empire tools... you'll have to reload my climbing page to see the modifications.

It's a VERY wide file, after the title, and the release date, there is a header line which will define the columns. But everyone should be able to look at this file, and maybe even load it into your spreadsheet/database of choice.
Jody

Mountain climber
CA
Jan 25, 2004 - 11:17pm PT
"I will save a copy as a "comma separated" file and post that too for those without evil empire tools..."

LOL!!! Thanks, I am not innocent, I have just about every other evil empire tool.
ablegabel

Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
Jan 26, 2004 - 12:14pm PT
Ed, I think I have a copy of the Valley Sport Climbs.I'll look for it if you want to borrow it. P.S. I'm moving on the Jan.31st. to Sonora.
Larry

Trad climber
Reno NV
Jan 27, 2004 - 09:09am PT
Get the free Excel reader (Windows only, natch).

http://download.microsoft.com/download/excel2000/Xlviewer/2000/WIN98/EN-US/xlViewer.exe

Or Open Office.

http://www.openoffice.org/
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2008 - 04:18pm PT
The latest version of the Comprehensive Index of Yosemite Valley Climbs is posted at my URL:

http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/eph-climbing.html

There are some format changes so if you have made something automagic to read it you might have compatability issues, sorry...
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 6, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
Cool. When I clicked on the file links on the page, it was asking me for a username/password, but let me view/save the files anyway.

I still haven't finished doing my little micro-ordering of the climbs from the older version! :-)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2008 - 04:50pm PT
didn't put any security on the files...
I just resaved and reloaded them to my site... I guess you can save your own copy and modify that one if it won't let you modify the downloaded one...
Paulina

Trad climber
Sep 6, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
Wow, what a great resource! Thank you Ed! I didn't know about it until your most recent update.
Double D

climber
Sep 6, 2008 - 08:06pm PT
Very cool Ed, thanks!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Sep 6, 2008 - 08:34pm PT
Got it.
Muy Bueno!
lars johansen

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 6, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
Unbelievable resource! Many thanks Ed. [database wiz]

Best,

lars
Mimi

climber
Sep 6, 2008 - 08:43pm PT
Wow, Ed. Now I see why Mussy refers to you as a list guy. Another fine effort! Thanks!
noshoesnoshirt

climber
hither and yon
Sep 6, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
That's a lot of climbs. If I could offer some advice, you might want to freeze the panes under row 4 so the classifications are visible for the entire scroll-down.

Edit: Sorry Ed, I forgot to say thanks for the hard work.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Sep 6, 2008 - 08:55pm PT
Good one noshoesnoshirt: I fixed mine up likewise...
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Sep 6, 2008 - 10:55pm PT
HI all,

So basically, we need to make note of the fact that such a database has never been established before. It is just incredible.

There are missing climbs, though, of course. For God’s sake Ed is trying to cover 75 years of climbing. And maybe 110 million square feet of rock? ST doesn’t seem to get the clue either. How about an update, without your “selections” Chris? We need this stuff, this history, published somehow. Without it becoming a "Valley Greeter".

How cool can one get, doing this excel sheet over 5 years. I don’t know. Ed is a really fabulous character and so well loved here.

Ever so many thanks.

ph


Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Sep 6, 2008 - 11:00pm PT
Amazing! Actually Ed does more amazing things than meet the eye!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Sep 7, 2008 - 12:34am PT
hey there ed.. say, just jumping in to say thank you... (i dont need the files, as i dont climb, but i was just thanking you for being so kind to eveyone)...
east side underground

Trad climber
crowley ca
Sep 7, 2008 - 01:13am PT
wow!
Joe

Social climber
Santa Cruz Mountains/Los Gatos
Sep 7, 2008 - 11:30am PT
a yeoman's effort.
nicely done.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Sep 7, 2008 - 09:41pm PT
A yeoman's effort indeed,

Say...quicky quiz for the *bump*:
Who was/were the yeoman in the Shatner Star Trek???
(not sayin' I have the difinitive answer, but I think he had the hots for one of 'em)

We may have needs to refer to Ed as Capt'n...
"Admiral Hartouni" in fact, has a nicer ring.
cultureshock

Trad climber
Wall Climber Wannabe
Sep 7, 2008 - 10:11pm PT
Another way to view the index is through Google Documents.

I took the version and cut it down to the 1mb limit so it just includes the index.

http://spreadsheets.google.com/pub?key=pCYREeFGKi5FThoqmEkg4Tw

Ed, if you want I can take this down. I would think that keeping a copy online would be a good back-up and a great distribution method. As well you can invite contributors and track changes.

Cheers,

Luke
The user formerly known as stzzo

Armchair climber
Sneaking up behind you
Sep 8, 2008 - 12:26am PT
Anyone want this in an online searchable database?

Can do...

 K
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2008 - 12:58am PT
just got back home from an adventure in Tuolumne Meadows...

I put the database out there for everyone and anyone to use. I consider it a community effort. I'd like to keep track of route activity independent of published guides as the guides take a long time between publications... actually that's another interesting statistic...

...there are 2237 climbs in the spreadsheet

480 climbs in Roper 1971
805 climbs in Meyers 1982
48 climbs in Harlin 1987
1181 climbs in Meyers & Reid 1987
137 climbs in Climbing 129
1536 climbs in Reid 1994
41 climbs in SuperTopo 2000
204 climbs in SuperTopo 2003

guides come out about one or two a decade, but there are hundreds of new climbs done each year. American Alpine Journal gets some of these, and some of the other rags might mention some of the newsworthy climbs... but the bulk of new climbs are unknown.

I think it would be great if they were known. It is important for the history of climbing...

edit per Clint's observation.. see, it is a community thing!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 8, 2008 - 01:05am PT
Looks great now, Ed!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Sep 8, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
Doing my part to keep this thread *bumped*


...and address the side bar.

The Yeoman,


Yeoman Janice Rand (Grace Lee Whitney)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Janice_Rand


The episode referenced by Rox, "Mirror Mirror" (a personal favorite)
Wherein the key Trek Posse entertain a daliance in a parallel universe:


http://www.startrek.com/startrek/view/series/TOS/episode/68738.html


And the love interest,
Kirk meets the beautiful Lieutenant Marlena Moreau (Barbara Luna):


http://www.startrek.com/startrek/view/series/TOS/episode/68738.html
nutjob

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 8, 2008 - 05:26pm PT
Ed, this is some serious community-minded love. Thank you for this admirable and amazing effort.

Stzzo, I was thinking along the same lines... not so tough to through this into mysql and put a simple web form on the front end. Of course, the more effort put into it the slicker it will get.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 8, 2008 - 06:37pm PT
What happened to all the info I added from the Roper '64 guide? Looks like it's gone now. Irrelevant?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 8, 2008 - 08:45pm PT
steelmnky, not gone, just on another version... I'll seriously review the versions and get yet another one out.. saw something today that needed to be changed...

sorry about version control... when you sent it I was thoroughly burned out on the project. I'm getting renergized now...

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 8, 2008 - 10:55pm PT
I was just curious... no hurry. You do good work!!!
The user formerly known as stzzo

Armchair climber
Sneaking up behind you
Sep 8, 2008 - 11:57pm PT
nutjob: I started. Can pass you what I've done if you're in a place to move on it.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2008 - 01:01am PT
OK, the latest version has the steelmnky contributions:

1) Roper 64 references
2) Voge 54 references
3) Falkenstein 92 references

and I've consolidated the journal references under a single column...

Anticipated changes for the future is an expanded "journals" reference... and any new climbs that I hear about (I guess I should put in the "Eric Gabel" climbs...)

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Sep 9, 2008 - 02:22am PT
Thank you, thank you, thank you! I haven't seen anything this comprehensive (relative to the climbs accomplished) since Pratt's notebook.

John
Oli

Trad climber
Fruita, Colorado
Sep 9, 2008 - 02:23am PT
I haven't opened the document, but immediately I wonder about a few obscure routes I did that most people don't know about. For example, April Showers, 5.10 crack above Camp 4, or Hush,Puppy!, a 5.11 fingertip lieback along the base of Reed Pinnacle... I've got lots of them, actually... Maybe they're not important...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2008 - 02:50am PT
Pat - everything is important! I'd be happy to include any climb you have done that hasn't made it into a guide book yet.

Put a list up here, or email me a description...
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
Sep 9, 2008 - 06:10am PT
Ed, this is quite amazing. Thank you!

I have one correction. Continual guidebook errors notwithstanding, we did Wings of Steel in 1982 rather than 1981. It's a small point, but you are obviously going for excellence and accuracy.

All the best!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2008 - 11:20am PT
thanks madbolter1, I'll make the change, also wondered if you had the Ring of Fire FA year, that seems to be missing...
MisterE

Social climber
My Inner Nut
Sep 9, 2008 - 11:37am PT
Really great work, Ed. The Doctor and I are in the process of redoing the Northern Arizona Guidebook, and I am doing the computer side on Excel - I know how much work this is from first-hand experience.

Kudos, Erik
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Sep 9, 2008 - 12:17pm PT
Thanks Ed and everyone who helped!

That's a lot of climbs!
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Sep 9, 2008 - 12:40pm PT
I just saw this too, Ed. Kick ass!!!!

Thanks for doing it.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Sep 9, 2008 - 02:06pm PT
Hey Ed,

Here's a thought for a B list project.
We've from time to time touched on the need for a TR repository.

Would it be practical to run a spider that could feret out all the threads with titles including the letters TR?

If so, and if the URL's could be easily compiled, we could maybe index them by year, put each yearly compilation in a separate thread, then vote on a winner at each year's end once they are all in.

In your spare time???
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 9, 2008 - 03:13pm PT
Hey Ed, question for ya... what is the column called "Meyers Noted" ??? Yosemite Climber?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 9, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
> when you sent it I was thoroughly burned out on the project. I'm getting renergized now...
I think I know what you mean! I flamed out with my highly similar project, and I didn't even have to type in those 2200+ routes and all the data that goes with them! In the past I had briefly toyed with making such a database, but after a few hours and not even finishing the Cookie, it just seemed too tough!

With your latest efforts, I got inspired to finish my version, which I had started in February or so. I managed to get it finished over the weekend.

I prefer a view of the data which is more like a guidebook, so I can use it like a guidebook. I can use it to keep track of new routes by inserting them between old ones, so it's fairly clear where they are located. To do this, I had to reorder all the routes into the guidebook order (clockwise around the Valley and left-to-right on each crag). I also reduced the width of the spreadsheet so I can see all the info for a given route on my screen (except for the occasional long FA/FFA entry). To do this, I dropped many of the columns like the page number references to guidebooks. However, besides the spreadsheet view, there are also a couple of web pages generated from the database, which include references to guidebooks and AAJs for routes not in Reid(1994). Along the way, I inserted all the new routes that I know of, so the route total is up to 2500+. The main route list also includes links to a few topos and overlays for some of the new routes. The database also generates a tick list of "routes by type", like that found in Meyers(1982) and Meyers&Reid(1987) but since discontinued. So if you want to tick off all the thin cracks or ows, it's a fun way to select climbs to do. There are still a lot of such types to be added, but it's good enough for a first draft at present.

http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/update.htm

To summarize:
 list of all Yosemite Valley routes I know of (OK, I left out a few secret crags!)
 plain text web page of all routes, with links to a few new topos/photo overlays
 screen-width spreadsheet, sortable by location, rating, stars, crux type, name, or year. Includes crag/area name headings in bold, on separate rows between the climbs.
 routes by type/rating (tick list). Types used: slab, face, arete, lieback, stem, roof, thin/finger, thin hand, hand, fist, ow, chimney. (Plain text web page)
 routes by rating (separate section for aid routes)
 routes and crags/areas by name (index)
 FA/FFA/FCA info (plain text web page)
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Sep 9, 2008 - 04:19pm PT
I'm seeing yet another column to add Ed... type of route (fingers, hands, face, OW, chimney, etc.) That would be awesome to be able to search the db for... difficult, of course because of the multipitch and a lot of them ending up being "all" or something.

Figure if I sit down to dig up the journal references, I'll be burned out about 15 issues of Climbing into the job... :-)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2008 - 04:41pm PT
in the back of the Yellow Guide Meyers put in an expanded list of Bridwell's Mountain article "defining" climbs... I often generate lists off of the Yellow Guide to work on stuff like: Chimneys...

"Meyers Noted" is just a tick mark...
...it wouldn't be too hard, now that the references are there to the guides, to go and mark the type of climbing, but you always run into the problem on multipitch climbs as to what pitch defines the route, or the possibility that there are several different climbing techniques that are notable on a single climb, even on a single pitch...

e.c. recommended that we put gear recommendations in too...

Now I invite any and all to take the list and generate what ever it is you desire from it! But I'm really just focused on recording the basic info... that is challenging enough.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Sep 9, 2008 - 05:00pm PT
Hi Ed,

As you know, I have been using your data base for several years to support my posts on Valley history. The ability to search and to sort makes those sorts of tasks relatively easy. With some of the recent interest in filling in data from more recent ascents, your data base will be both a spur and enabler--great work.

From all of us, thanks.

Best, Roger

PS: When I try to down load your latest from the link in the first post, I get a corrupted file warning--I am sure that it is only referring to the actual data and the not the activity. My Excel program repairs it, but the error message says that there were so many errors that it couldn't keep track of them. I deleted it and tried again and the same thing happened. Got any ideas?
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 9, 2008 - 06:22pm PT
Roger, I'll upload it when I get home, it is always possible that something was lost in the process that I didn't see...

...I just downloaded it from the site and opened it in my MSExcel and got no error messages.

Could possibly be a difficulty between the Mac OX version of MSExcel and the variety you are running on your box...
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Sep 9, 2008 - 06:34pm PT

clint,
great work!

You said you hand numbered all the routes.
Hopefully you are now using a pointer formula that will auto-calculate route numbers whenever you add/subtract a route.

Basically, say you had 3 crags each with 10 routes, ordered from left to right, and then later you want to add a route in the middle. Say that originally route 15 was cookie left, and route 16 was cookie right. Now you want to add cookie middle. If you hard number them, you'd have to hand renumber routes 16-30. But if each route number is just a formula saying take the number of the route to the left and add one, it's much easier. All you have to do is make the index of cookie middle = cookie left + 1. And change the index of cookie right from that to cookie Middle + 1.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 9, 2008 - 06:50pm PT
Splater,

Thanks.

> You said you hand numbered all the routes.
Oops, sorry, I didn't mean to imply that.

Actually what I said is that I "reordered" them - I moved them around in a file by hand. I have software which automatically renumbers the routes when I add or subtract routes from the list. I have a plain text file which is almost the same as yos.htm, but includes the FA info and route types. I edit that text file, then generate the other files from it automatically. (Well, there is one part I do by hand - I have to tweak yos.xls slightly, to make the crag names and heading bold, and freeze the panes).

Way back in the day, I used to renumber stuff by hand, on a VAX minicomputer! Think 1982 or so, for the Connecticut Traprock guidebook. It's so much better to have that numbering automated.....
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2008 - 12:41am PT
ok, I haven't looked at Clint's list, but I have generated a new data base with some additional routes after combing through the American Alpine Journal, having searched for all articles containing the word "Yosemite". That generated ~500 hits, which I has looked at for additional information.

This also generated a lot of the posts I've been doing lately... on AAJ articles and the like.

I'm done now, and the data is entered. steelmnky got me energized to look at references... I think he's doing Climbing and others... so sometime this winter we'll have most of the climbs cross referenced with the climbing literature too. This should make it easy for anyone to look up what was written on any of the routes that have been written about...


http://home.comcast.net/~e.hartouni/eph-climbing.html

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 2, 2008 - 12:42am PT
...and Pat Ament, I'm still interested in anything you have... so please shoot me an email, or just post up here...
thanks

ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
O a k t o w n
Mar 4, 2009 - 04:00am PT
The google-docs version is nice . Clint's lists priceless too .
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Mar 19, 2009 - 06:29pm PT
"Bottom line is if people demand more climbing sh#t, they'll bump it."
bump

Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 19, 2009 - 06:31pm PT
If I forget to mention it later, nice work, Wade!
the Fet

Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
Mar 19, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
One of the best threads/projects ever.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Mar 19, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
He's got a million of them.
squishy

Mountain climber
sacramento
Mar 20, 2009 - 02:04am PT
bump for being awesome...
scuffy b

climber
just below the San Andreas
Mar 20, 2009 - 12:11pm PT
An idea for new lists, Ed.

You've got your Blue List (5.10a offwidth)
and the Pink List (5.10b offwidth)
and I presume more in that series

How about a Right Side In list and a
Left Side In list.

Yosemite climbers seem to think most everything is
Left Side In (you think I'm exaggerating, readers?)

I'll toss out a few Right Side In candidates, even including
perhaps a few guesses.

The Bin
Extra Credit
Chingando
Edge of Night
Secret Storm
Mental Block
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 15, 2010 - 06:52am PT
My version of Ed's list now includes a spreadsheet of first ascents by person and date. (yosfap.xls)
Check it out and tell me what climbs are missing, what mistakes are in there, etc.
[I know the pitch counts are off for many of the older routes]
http://www.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/yos/update.htm

The main list is up to 2711 routes, which includes some duplicate pitches.
pc

climber
Mar 15, 2010 - 12:12pm PT
Ed, Clint, Great stuff. Thanks a million.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Mar 15, 2010 - 12:34pm PT
You know Clint, if there was a separate column with the date of the first free ascent then you could do a sort by difficult, secondary sort by date and quickly find the date of the first 10a and the first 12b etc....
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 16, 2010 - 02:47am PT
Mike,

It would be more like a "Free Date" column, since many routes were freed on the FA and don't have a separate FFA.
You can get the info on first 5.10a, 5.12b, etc. with a little more effort by sorting yos.xls on year (FA), then by nrating, then check the first ascent column to check the FFA date.

For example, if you wanted to find the earliest 5.8, the earliest one without an FFA is:
Sentinel Rock - Northeast Bowl 5.8 A1, John Salathe, Anton Nelson, 6/1948
5.8s with earlier FAs all had FFAs after 1948.
However, this is not decisive, because there might exist some climbs done before 1948.06 which were 5.8 A_ but were freed at a higher grade.
We wouldn't know for sure unless we checked the original ratings before climbs were freed.
I believe Ed's version includes the original ratings, or at least some guidebook ratings for many climbs before they were freed.
Also the rating for Sentinel NE Bowl might reflect how people climbed it in 1971, but the 5.8 parts might have been aided in 1948.
So it's probably not the best example.

For a purely free 5.8:
Overhang Route 5.8, FFA: Mark Powell, Bill Feuerer, 1956
by comparison with the earliest 5.8s without a separate FFA (all done in 1958):
Split Pinnacle - East Arete 5.8 **, Chuck Pratt, Krehe Ritter, 1958
Watkins Pinnacles - from Tenaya Canyon 5.8, Gary Hemming, Dick Long, Jim Wilson, Larry Lackey, 5/1958
The Cookie - Original 5.8, Chuck Pratt, Dick Sykes, 8/1958
Arrowhead Spire - Northeast Side 5.8, John Fiske, Dick Scheible, 8/1958
and also (my rating):
Arrowhead Arete 5.9 **, Mark Powell, Bill Feuerer, 10/1956

First 5.9 is easy (and predates first 5.8):
Higher Cathedral Spire - Regular Route 5.9 **, FFA: Chuck Wilts, Spencer Austin, 1944
(I believe this was the first recorded FFA in the Valley)

5.10a-d
Rixon's Pinnacle - East Chimney 5.10a *, FFA: Royal Robbins, Dave Rearick, 1960
Reed's Leads 5.10b (originally rated 5.9), Wally Reed, Mike Borghoff, 1963
Split Pinnacle Lieback 5.10c, FA(rap): Dave Rearick, Mort Hempel, 6/1961
Twilight Zone 5.10d **, Chuck Pratt, Chris Fredericks, 9/1965

5.11a-d (but remember, Slack Center and Serenity Crack were freed in 1967, and rated 5.11 in the 1971 Roper guidebook)
Butterfingers 5.11a **, Jim Bridwell, Charley Jones, 8/1971
Cream 5.11a **, Mark Klemens, et al, 8/1971
The Hourglass - Left Side 5.11a R *, FFA: Peter Haan, Rick Linkert, Mike Farrell, 9/1971
Swan Slab Aid Route 5.11b *, FFA: Loyd Price, et al, 1967
General Hospital 5.11c R, Rik Rieder, Phil Gleason, Chris Wegener, 1972
Abstract Corner 5.11d **, Jim Bridwell, et al, 1971

5.12a-d
Hotline 5.12a ***, FFA: Ron Kauk, John Bachar, 1975
Tongue and Groove 5.12a, Andreas Maurer, 1975
Fish Crack 5.12b **, FP(cleaned): Ron Kauk, Werner Braun, by 1975; FA: Henry Barber, et al, 1975
Hang Dog Flyer 5.12c **, Ray Jardine, John Lakey, 1976
Owl Roof 5.12c, FA(using chockstone placed by Bridwell): Tom Higgins, 1973; FFA(chockstone removed): Dale Bard, [not Jardine], by 1977
Tunnel Vision 5.12d *, John Bachar, et al, 1982

5.13a-d
The Phoenix 5.13a ***, Ray Jardine, John Lakey, 5/1977
Cosmic Debris 5.13b ***, Bill Price, et al, 5/1980
Excellent Adventure 5.13c, FFA: Peter Croft, 1987
Book of Hate 5.13d, Randy Leavitt, 1999

5.14a-b
Nose Free 5.14a, FFA: Lynn Hill, 1993
Magic Line 5.14b, FFA: Ron Kauk, 1997
Meltdown 5.14, Beth Rodden, 2/08

The above might make a cool tick list!

You can also sort by type, to find the first 5.10a slab, first 5.10a thin crack, lieback, etc.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
bump for sean
tinker b

climber
the commonwealth
Jun 1, 2013 - 09:28pm PT
bad ass.
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