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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Oct 18, 2016 - 03:39pm PT
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I feel like it's in the same realm as "easily onsighted the pitch 3rd try with only two points of aid"
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 18, 2016 - 03:45pm PT
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Impaler, that's classic! New standards these days. lol
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Texplorer
Trad climber
Sacramento
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Oct 18, 2016 - 04:52pm PT
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So True Impaler!
Also like "He freed the A5 pitch by skipping the 3rd bolt and really going for it"
But what can we expect these days. Going to probably be pretty much the same as those two other guys who freed* the Dawn Wall.
*by free we mean preplaced gear and draws, both climbers may not have freed all pitches, some pitches may have caused hives and itching, not all future ascents should expect equal accolades for toproping el cap, if you are climbing this route avoid climbing when Evans camera is facing you, have ample supply of cellphone batteries, and if butthurt occurs talk to your doctor immediately.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 18, 2016 - 06:05pm PT
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Wake me up when he gets to one of the hard pitches...
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Oct 18, 2016 - 06:46pm PT
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Oh yeah right, so far he's just scrambled up choss at 12b, 13a, 13c, 12b, 12d, 13c(R), and 14.
A seven-pitch climb with those grades would be the culmination of most people's entire careers, and he walked up an did it after what? A practice run on Generator Crack?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Oct 18, 2016 - 06:53pm PT
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Those seven pitches are more sustained than any route that was freed on El Cap before oh like 2004...
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Oct 18, 2016 - 07:29pm PT
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oh come on now, some of you long toothed cranks...
are you seriously throwing any kind of shade at someone who just walked up to what has to be the most sustained hard big wall free climb on the planet and in two days has climbed 25% of the total pitches, including 3/7 5.13 pitches and 1/7 of the 5.14 pitches, all while having spent a total of only a couple days in yosemite before?
are you dudes for real?
in case, i'll help you with the what does "hiked the climbing with a few falls" mean:
it means on a climb that took one of the best climbers in the world seven years to sort out, you took a few falls on some of the harder [but not hardest] pitches while on lead, before pulling the rope and releading them. nonetheless you figured them out quite fast and were able to redpoint multiple hard pitches in the same day.
ie. hiking a 5.5 does mean something different than hiking a 5.14... go figure eh?
oh well... thanks for the chuckles.
but seriously now: you dudes are watching, if he continues to pull this off at the same rate he is going, what is going to be one of the most epic events to happen in free climbing in a long long time.
this is all i have to say to those who ask how can he say "hiked" when he fell multiple times on 5.13s and 5.14s:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
guffaw.
edit to add: if it turns out he's not red pointing any of this, as i jumped to the conclusion that he was, then i'll eat the proper amount of crow and join you long toothed cranks in the corner: [imesho] in order to "hike" one has to at least redpoint in a quick fashion... hahaha. either way while whether he is "hiking" may still be open for debate, there's no question he certainly is crushing it.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 18, 2016 - 08:04pm PT
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Oh yeah right, so far he's just ... ...gone aid climbing.
There's no claim of a redpoint on any of those pitches, just the opposite actually.
He's going "ground up"...brah...
We'll see how long that approach lasts...
Not saying I'm not impressed. I think it's pretty cool. It's just he hasn't done anything yet except "get on the route". I get on routes I may never send all the time. I love the attention, too.
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dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
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Oct 18, 2016 - 08:44pm PT
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^ you sound really impressed.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Oct 18, 2016 - 09:23pm PT
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^^ +1
Agree completely KT!
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Oct 18, 2016 - 09:26pm PT
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Stock in Jammies are going through the roof.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Oct 18, 2016 - 09:52pm PT
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^ Those were Ocun crack gloves, also Czech.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Oct 18, 2016 - 10:07pm PT
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Good luck hope you send!
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briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
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Oct 18, 2016 - 10:22pm PT
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Beak beak cam hook free move
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duncan
climber
London, UK
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Oct 19, 2016 - 01:12am PT
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Ondra is far more than merely a "Euro" sport climber who hangs upside down on 5.16 holds. Here he is onsighting a ~5.11+ offwidth in Teplice (Czech republic). That bolt is some way below.
He is not too shabby on vertical granite face climbing either, as I pointed out rather bluntly here.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Oct 19, 2016 - 01:40am PT
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So true Duncan, Lots of folks here don't realise what his climbing background is. He grew up on that stuff.
The Dawn Wall will be very interesting.
Steve
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Oct 19, 2016 - 05:55am PT
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Will Ondra do it Kevin or Tommy style at the static vs. dyno pitch?
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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Oct 19, 2016 - 09:24am PT
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Oh yeah right, so far he's just scrambled up choss at 12b, 13a, 13c, 12b, 12d, 13c(R), and 14.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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