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couchmaster
climber
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Oct 24, 2016 - 12:55pm PT
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Ondra has that amazing strength to weight ratio, and I love that he's just gonna show up and start climbing right in the spotlight glare as if he doesn't care, but regarding this quote:"The goal right now is only to go ground-up to the top, free-climbing and using a little bit of aid climbing, to fix the whole line with ropes and start working on the pitches properly to have them ready for the final free push later. So if the crux is around the protection, I just touch the holds to see how the sequence would be and continue. "
is "working on the pitches" also called toproping? Or is fixing the whole route with ropes for the camera guys?
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PKisMe
climber
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Oct 24, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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Couch, I think its both, get the ropes up there to work it on TR, and for the camera folks. Still a big step up from rapping down imo. Cheers
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Oct 24, 2016 - 04:15pm PT
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https://www.instagram.com/p/BL31-Iigxgb/?hl=en
Looks like next Adam going to climb The Nose [free probably?]
adam.ondraAn easy day in #Yosemite, climbing a few pitches with my dad on the Mid Cathedral, just the opposite of the Valley from El Cap. And from the wall itself, we could easily check the line we will climb next. The most obvious one.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Oct 24, 2016 - 06:38pm PT
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^^^^
sounds like he just did...
from Pavel Blažek's instagram:
Heinz and I reppeled down from the top of The Nose just above the Changing Corners. The plan was to film Adam climbing it. But there was so many people comming up, the weather was getting bad and Adam was way too far down the route that we decided to jug up and walk back down to the camp.
Adam finished the route around midnight and actually had to bivouac on his way down - it was too dangerous to walk down in the rain and dark.
I'm curious if he is gonna give it another try as he unfortunately didn't free climb the Great Roof. I haven't talk to him yet but I guess it was way too wet as the other climbers comming up said.
what a monster...
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thedogfather
Trad climber
Somewhere near Red Rocks
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Oct 25, 2016 - 07:17am PT
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Update: Ondra Attempts to Onsight the Nose
“Yesterday was probably the longest climbing day of my life. We went with my dad up on The Nose, wanting to free it in a day. We started at first light and up to the Great Roof it was going well, onsighting all of the pitches in a few hours. But the Great Roof shut me down. I had a pretty good flash go, got the beta, lowered and gave it a second shot thinking I would fire it off easily, but I had not realized how important the feet are on this climb. After climbing so many pitches and taking no rest after my flash, they went super shaky and weak. I fell, gave it even a third go and fell in the end of the traverse. There was no point in giving it more tries and we just wanted to top out. Time to switch to night climbing and onsighting all of the pitches except for Changing Corner, topping out at midnight in the starting rain. Full alpine experience, as we did not find the descent route in the pissing rain, and had a wet and cold bivy in the little cave, before we finally got to the car at 9 a.m. The Nose is one of the most famous climbs in the world and I am super glad to have climbed it with my dad, even though not free. A big day out.”
—–BD Ambassador Adam Ondra, Oct. 24, 2016.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 25, 2016 - 10:28am PT
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If these amazing talents keep showing up to the Valley and blowing their wad in the first 5 minutes, the big free lines will never see an onsight. How long did Yugi hang around to learn and practice the unique style before trying Salathe? Who's left in the current crop - Alex Megos?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 25, 2016 - 11:26am PT
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JLP, spot on. Imagine how hard a Dawn Wall onsight would be though...
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Cragar
climber
MSLA - MT
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Oct 25, 2016 - 12:38pm PT
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walls in a push on-sight lead, euro is sending
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 25, 2016 - 01:00pm PT
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I think it's pretty cool what he is doing - having the trip of a lifetime - but it struck me as a little weird he got stopped on the Nose by footwork/friction issues - seems beneath his potential - or that he even got on the thing so soon with a stated intent to free it in a day onsight...
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Oct 25, 2016 - 03:05pm PT
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Lynn Hill rules!
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Oct 25, 2016 - 03:43pm PT
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Beast mode. Attempting to os the nose in a day and not being too far off the mark shows how incredible of a rock climber he has become. Can't wait to hear more.
Lynn Hill has not onsighted it in a day (reply to the comment above).
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Oct 25, 2016 - 04:14pm PT
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Lynn Hill has not onsighted it in a day (reply to the comment above).
Neither has Ondra...
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Oct 25, 2016 - 04:15pm PT
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Beast mode. Attempting to os the nose in a day and not being too far off the mark shows how incredible of a rock climber he has become.
How far off the mark was he?
Doesn't the route have two crux pitches, and he wasn't able to free the first (great roof) after several tries and then he gave up.
Then I don't see anything that shows how close he was on the Changing Corners, or if he even tried.
Did I miss something?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Oct 25, 2016 - 04:17pm PT
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my armchair climber skillz sayz El Cap isn't a slab, but maybe I'm wrong about that.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Oct 25, 2016 - 04:37pm PT
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Did I miss something? he red-pointed Changing corner from second try.
But most importantly- you miss that Ondra did on The Nose very impressive work, assuming that he basically touch Yosemite granite just 10 days ago.
At his original plans [some article above in this tread] the goal was to onsite Salathe Wall after climbing The Nose. Based on what he is doing now - he have a good chance.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Oct 25, 2016 - 05:11pm PT
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^ ^ ^
Thanks, yes I did miss that about Changing Corners
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Oct 25, 2016 - 05:59pm PT
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my armchair climber skillz sayz El Cap isn't a slab, but maybe I'm wrong about that. To a 5.15 limestone climber, I'm thinking pretty much the whole thing is a slab. Losing sport fitness in the Valley is well known.
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 25, 2016 - 07:08pm PT
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Freeing the entire Nose in one day would be amazing. There are several climbers out there who can do the individual moves, but if you look at the fatigue factor, I am not at all surprised that he was too tired to send the Great Roof. His post was very revealing that his legs were too pumped out for the delicate footwork. I am still incredibly impressed with how well he did just showing up and getting that far. It does show how great Lynn Hill was doing all the moves free, even if it wasn't all in one day.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Oct 25, 2016 - 07:40pm PT
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Lynn Hill did free the Nose in a day (within 24 hours):
2nd FA - Lynn Hill 9/94, in a day
23 hours (10pm 9/19 - 9pm 9/20)
only 2 falls -- both on the "Houdini Corner" above Camp 6
one previous attempt, 9/6, ended at Great Roof (too hot)
Climbing #148
Of course this is not the same as doing it free in a day, on your first time on the climb.
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nah000
climber
no/w/here
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Oct 26, 2016 - 12:00am PT
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JLP wrote: I think it's pretty cool what he is doing - having the trip of a lifetime - but it struck me as a little weird he got stopped on the Nose by footwork-friction issues - seems beneath his potential - or that he even got on the thing so soon with a stated intent to free it in a day onsight...
your contributions to this thread continue to crack me up...
sheeit. dude shows up in the valley, onsights almost all of the nose in a day...
and then some semi-anonymous three lettered initial dude/tte who probably onsights at least a few orders of magnitude lower than ondra, is there to tell us all what "seem[ed] beneath [ondra's] potential", along with questioning ondra's strategies...
lulzy...
remember kids: just goes to show that it doesn't matter who you are or what you accomplish, there will always be an available critic there willing and able to suggest/question/tell you how you should/could/might have done it better from the comforts of their armchair...
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