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Guide
Mountain climber
Switzerland
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 21, 2016 - 05:34am PT
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Hello Climbers!
In October 2016 i will spent some time in Yosemite. Iwould like (try) to climb "central-pillar-of-frenzy" and know about the rockfall at Jul 11 2016 - see Post / Link!
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 11, 2016 - 06:51pm PT
From Mountain project:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/central-pillar-of-frenzy/105862930
Does anybody know if there is still a dangerzone or has been another rockfall since this time?
Wearing a helmet is ok, but it depends also on the size of rocks :-):-)!
Greetings from Europe and thank you for information!
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 21, 2016 - 06:32am PT
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Hiya Switzerland!! Share some pictures from your homeland!
Are you planning for 5 pitches only on Central Pillar, or more?
You have a good chance of having zero rockfall in Yosemite. I climbed without a helmet there for 20 years. Still....it happens.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 07:26am PT
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And I only climbed there a few times and experienced terrible rockfall twice! Karma is a bitch!
On the E Buttress of Middle Cathedral two Swiss guys above us did their best to kill us.
They only missed by 50cm at least three times and some of the rocks were about 25cm!
Berg heil! :-) (get started VERY EARLY on Frenzy!)
Me in Suisse last month...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 21, 2016 - 08:31am PT
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Reilly is correct about an early start on Frenzy. In the 70s, we could actually have the route to ourselves, or a late party might go elsewhere. These days people just seem to queue up.
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Sep 21, 2016 - 08:39am PT
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Hey Guide:
If it’s been a problem of note, folks may post some comments on this site. Check out “Recent Route Beta” tab here above. Good luck.
And . . . , you guys have some killer DH biking there in Switzerland! (I DO mean “killer.”)
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 09:16am PT
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CPOF is great. Wear a helmet. Climb 5 pitches, jump in river, relax in meadow. Expect to be tired...
Need a partner?
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Gorgeous George
Trad climber
Los Angeles, California
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Sep 21, 2016 - 09:36am PT
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That's one of two reasons the overhang at the top of pitch two is so cool, rocks tend to whiz past you as you ascend the lower pitches, although it is still freaky.
The other reason is it's just so cool to stem that gap as you transition to the larger crack above.
Ayyyyyyyyyy.
jg
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 11:03am PT
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Middle Cathedral Rock, including the northeast face where the Central Pillar resides, is my favorite climbing area in Yosemite Valley, but I've also experienced rockfall there several times - even when we were alone on the Powell-Reed and Bircheff-Williams in the early 1970's. I'd second the advice about helmets, but I'm unaware of any special danger following the most recent rockfall. Also, as others have stated, the roof on pitch 3 helps to protect the lower pitches (but not completely), and the route is on a bit of buttress, which tends to divert some of the rockfall from above.
Sad to say, even though most climbing areas experience more rockfall, not even Yosemite escapes entirely. The exceptional nature of the Central Pillar more than makes up for the relatively minimal risk involved in climbing it.
John
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 11:52am PT
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Rockfall is Middlle Cathedral's way of saying "hello, how are you?"
The usual reply is: "freaked out and you?" LOL
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Guide
Mountain climber
Switzerland
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2016 - 01:15am PT
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Hello Climbers!
Thank you for your comments and infos!
Very interesting is the side with rockfall-statistic from the parkservice!
Ofcourse, there are many nice Climbing- and Mountaineeringspots in Switzerland, but sometimes it`s time to spent in other regions :-):-)
¨Who`s having plenty of time can have a look to my small website www.lustaufberge.com (only german)and join some pics from climbing / skiing / mountaineering in Europe but also from High Sierra, Yosemite, red Rcks....
Have a good Time!
Andreas
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