1970s Bolt protected run-out slab climbing


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Messages 181 - 200 of total 224 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
The Warbler

the edge of America
Nov 8, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
Why stop an' drill if you ain't gonna fall?
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 8, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
Some of the jokes here just scrape by. They're a bit rough.

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 7, 2009 - 01:59pm PT

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Dec 7, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
Lordy lordy-where has this gem of a thread been hiding?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 7, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
Somewhere between the nuns and the mermaids...LOL
Lee Bow

Trad climber
wet island
Dec 7, 2009 - 04:56pm PT
You know, I've never figured out why run out slabs hit such a nerve with some peolple. By any fair standard,I'm a big coward. But I LOVE run out slabs. It's my big chance to delude myself into thinking I'm actually a real climber. So long as you don't start cart-wheeling or do the wrist slide (road rash!) the falls are actually slow motion comedy!
I've actually had CONVERSATIONS while falling. 120ft is my current record.
Not bad for a guy that cries at the thought of falling 5ft vertical.

Some of the best runouts have been butchered by rebolting or neighboring routes essentially erasing the orriginal line. Never ONCE have I accidentally stumbled onto a run out. They are not bears attacking your tent cuz you spilled stew all over your sleeping bag. If you don't WANT to climb run out slab DON'T. All the comments about ego, waste of rock or greed make me ill. How would it be if I put a chicken bolt ever five feet on the Salathe. The same logic aplies, but even more so. There are well protected slab route. I'm not aware of one wall route for wimp cowards like myself.

Aug 9, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
"Why stop an' drill if you ain't gonna fall?"
Genius .

Trad climber
Aug 9, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
I LOVE slab climbing....
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Aug 9, 2010 - 08:29pm PT
yeah baby!

Calveras dome area has some very fine run out slabs! as well as the rest of tahoe here and there. some have been sadly retrobolted into clip ups. Its a heady game with very nice rewards imo..Its NOT just about the bolts, its about the moves between.. I know of slab routes put up into the ninties still with that flavor although in more recent times they are bolted to sport specifics..and are rather boring. Kinda like what theve done to darth vadars revenge by adding a belay like seventy feet up. thats NOT darth vadars revenge...
Tattooed 1

Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
Aug 9, 2010 - 08:33pm PT
Beacons from Mars, oh ya baby!
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Aug 9, 2010 - 08:47pm PT
or set the controls, for the heart of the sun..Smith Crawford and crew were very considerate on keeping rack weights down.;-)
Nate D

San Francisco
Aug 9, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
'"Why stop an' drill if you ain't gonna fall?"
Genius .'

Actually, shouldn't it also be, "Why stop an' drill if it'll make you fall?"
I think that that was, and still is, more often the case...

Trad climber
Pine Grove
Aug 10, 2010 - 03:57am PT
Slab climbing is one of my favorite forms of climbing. It's where the crowds aren't.

Hey Ron, not everyone is into the sport bolted stuff these days. Don't believe me, ask salmanizer for the topos to eagle rock and bear river res. He along with some other tahoe regulars have been putting up some things that make Set the Controls look like an easy day of cragging.
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Aug 10, 2010 - 10:56am PT
good to know that stuff is getting done!!! Those domes deserve it fo sho! Especially if the new stuff is in flavor with the old!!! that area has always been like tuolumne gone ba-ad...

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 10, 2010 - 08:15pm PT
Sup Rob, you back state side yet? Ran into your girlfriend a while back, she said you dumped her so you could spend the winter climbing in Mexico??

I thought it was funny... she didn't.

Anyway, I wouldn't call anything I've done a step up from Set the Controls. At the same standard maybe. You place bolts only where you need one and happen to be able to actually get one in at the same time. If you can't find a stance you either suck it up and go for it, or back off and sucker someone else into giving it a go.

I don't and I know Paul didn't set out to create dangerous runout routes. It's just the way it goes down from time to time is all. Ya know, "Climbing".
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Carson city Nev.
Aug 10, 2010 - 08:23pm PT
they are not dangerous so much as heady for belayer too! it WAS giving the rock a chance sort of thing, a respect for its features. Sure, they could have put the first bolt twenty up instead of fourty, but fourty was sporty..Its whats known as having some class in otherwords!

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Feb 8, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
bumps are all i got to work with at the moment
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Feb 8, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
Sometimes run-outs were dictated by lack of stances, other times by the prevailing "ethos" of placing bolts only where "really necessary."

Certainly there were people in our "B-List" group that harangued each other to push on higher before drilling (which had the added benefit of saving time and effort).

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Feb 9, 2011 - 12:29am PT
Climbing Bump

Dec 11, 2013 - 12:19am PT
Bump. For science.
Messages 181 - 200 of total 224 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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