1970s Bolt protected run-out slab climbing


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Messages 181 - 200 of total 233 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
The Warbler

the edge of America
Nov 8, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
Why stop an' drill if you ain't gonna fall?
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 8, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
Some of the jokes here just scrape by. They're a bit rough.

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 7, 2009 - 01:59pm PT

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Dec 7, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
Lordy lordy-where has this gem of a thread been hiding?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Dec 7, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
Somewhere between the nuns and the mermaids...LOL
Lee Bow

Trad climber
wet island
Dec 7, 2009 - 04:56pm PT
You know, I've never figured out why run out slabs hit such a nerve with some peolple. By any fair standard,I'm a big coward. But I LOVE run out slabs. It's my big chance to delude myself into thinking I'm actually a real climber. So long as you don't start cart-wheeling or do the wrist slide (road rash!) the falls are actually slow motion comedy!
I've actually had CONVERSATIONS while falling. 120ft is my current record.
Not bad for a guy that cries at the thought of falling 5ft vertical.

Some of the best runouts have been butchered by rebolting or neighboring routes essentially erasing the orriginal line. Never ONCE have I accidentally stumbled onto a run out. They are not bears attacking your tent cuz you spilled stew all over your sleeping bag. If you don't WANT to climb run out slab DON'T. All the comments about ego, waste of rock or greed make me ill. How would it be if I put a chicken bolt ever five feet on the Salathe. The same logic aplies, but even more so. There are well protected slab route. I'm not aware of one wall route for wimp cowards like myself.

Aug 9, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
"Why stop an' drill if you ain't gonna fall?"
Genius .

Trad climber
Aug 9, 2010 - 08:20pm PT
I LOVE slab climbing....
Tattooed 1

Trad climber
Sebastopol, Ca
Aug 9, 2010 - 08:33pm PT
Beacons from Mars, oh ya baby!
Nate D

San Francisco
Aug 9, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
'"Why stop an' drill if you ain't gonna fall?"
Genius .'

Actually, shouldn't it also be, "Why stop an' drill if it'll make you fall?"
I think that that was, and still is, more often the case...

Trad climber
Pine Grove
Aug 10, 2010 - 03:57am PT
Slab climbing is one of my favorite forms of climbing. It's where the crowds aren't.

Hey Ron, not everyone is into the sport bolted stuff these days. Don't believe me, ask salmanizer for the topos to eagle rock and bear river res. He along with some other tahoe regulars have been putting up some things that make Set the Controls look like an easy day of cragging.

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Aug 10, 2010 - 08:15pm PT
Sup Rob, you back state side yet? Ran into your girlfriend a while back, she said you dumped her so you could spend the winter climbing in Mexico??

I thought it was funny... she didn't.

Anyway, I wouldn't call anything I've done a step up from Set the Controls. At the same standard maybe. You place bolts only where you need one and happen to be able to actually get one in at the same time. If you can't find a stance you either suck it up and go for it, or back off and sucker someone else into giving it a go.

I don't and I know Paul didn't set out to create dangerous runout routes. It's just the way it goes down from time to time is all. Ya know, "Climbing".

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Feb 8, 2011 - 12:58pm PT
bumps are all i got to work with at the moment
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Feb 8, 2011 - 03:13pm PT
Sometimes run-outs were dictated by lack of stances, other times by the prevailing "ethos" of placing bolts only where "really necessary."

Certainly there were people in our "B-List" group that harangued each other to push on higher before drilling (which had the added benefit of saving time and effort).

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
Feb 9, 2011 - 12:29am PT
Climbing Bump

Dec 11, 2013 - 12:19am PT
Bump. For science.

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Dec 11, 2013 - 01:11am PT
120ft is my current record.

Lee Bow, holy sheep dip. 120 on slab is a long way to go. story?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Dec 11, 2013 - 02:54am PT
Credit: mouse from merced

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Dec 11, 2013 - 09:52am PT
On any given day the 98...2 rule is apparent in the Valley. 98% of the climbers are on 2% of the routes...lthe climbs Roger describes are not among them.
Climber Joe

Trad climber
Dec 11, 2013 - 09:23pm PT
Crest Jewel kicked our butts earlier this year. Had to bail around pitch 6 or so, when I started getting cramps in my triceps (betrays my inexperience) and my partner refused to take over lead. Turns out the often side-ways retreat rap was more dangerous than continuing. Then we had the NDG to deal with.

The upper slab routes at Big Rock Lake Perris are great for my balance. But then they are not run-out at all.

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