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Watermann2
Mountain climber
Saluzzo Italia
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 18, 2016 - 11:40pm PT
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http://gripped.com/news/marc-andre-leclerc-makes-first-winter-solo-of-torre-egger-makes-history/
Many Congratulations!!!!!! Chapeau!!!!!!
@@@ Neebee :Thank you Mister for your kindness!!!
Many Greetings.
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@ MISS NEEBEE.
Good Morning Miss Neebee ThanK You For Your Reponse :Excuse me for Traslation :
Good Morning Miss, I apologize for the error (Mr.) and thanks again for your kindness, if it is in Italy come to see me, we can do some nice climb of the Mont Blanc or the Matterhorn and Eiger. I have made several ascents in the White Group, (including the Supercouloir du Tacul) certainly are now a little older, however, the desire for adventure is always great !!! Greetings to YOU and YOUR family.
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Marc-André Leclerc claims first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia
19.09.2016 di Planetmountain
In Patagonia Canadian alpinist Marc-André Leclerc has made the first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger (2685m).
Canada’s Marc-André Leclerc has taken the mountaineering world by storm with a fast, first solo winter ascent of Torre Egger in Patagonia. First climbed in 1976 by the Americans Jim Donini, John Bragg and Jay Wilson, the first winter ascent of this 2685m high peak was carried out in 2010 by Swiss alpinists Stephan Siegrist, Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf. Until now no one had climbed Torre Egger alone in the coldest season.
Leclerc attempted to solo Torre Egger on 10 September 2016 but after a bivouac circa four pitches below the summit, the Squamish based alpinist was forced to retreat the next morning due to snowfall. According to details published on Patagonia Vertical, Leclerc returned up the valley and bivied in the Niponino camp on Thursday night, while on Friday he moved his camp to the glacier below the east face of the mountain.
Setting off at 2:45am on Saturday, Leclerc climbed circa 300m of new terrain to the right of the line chosen in 1980 by the Italians Bruno De Donà and Giuliano Giongo before following the line of his previous attempt, namely the "Winter link-up" line that leads to Titanic at half height. This involved climbing below a threatening serac - his first time ever - and a long mixed pitch (M5 A1), while on the headwall he soloed the majority of the climbing. He changed into rock shoes for some sections and back into boots and crampons higher up, resorting to aid where necessary. He summited at 6pm and after down climbing the first pitch abseiled off the edge of the headwall using Abalakov v-threads. This direct descent enabled him to return to the safety of his tent at 23:00, 21 hours after having set off.
Leclerc burst onto the international scene in February 2015 with his impressive solo of the Corkscrew link-up on Cerro Torre. In January 2015 together with Colin Haley he traversed from South to North the peaks Cerro Torre, Torre Egger, Punta Herron and Cerro Standhardt, while in October 2015 he made another audacious Patagonian solo linking up Tomahawk with Excocet on Aguja Standhardt. Just to put things into context: his latest ascent has been described by climbing partner Colin Haley - who knows a thing or two about climbing in Patagonia and who in January 2016 made the first solo ascent of Torre Egger - as follows "This ascent really blows me away. Marc-André is quickly leaving everyone else behind in this realm of climbing…"
RELATED NEWS
05/10/2015 - Marc-André Leclerc free solo of the Tomahawk - Excocet routes in Patagonia
10/08/2010 - Torre Egger Patagonia, first winter ascent by Siegrist, Arnold and Senf
CHAPEAU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 19, 2016 - 12:27am PT
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hey there say, watermann 2... wow...
:O
say, i will go read this, but have to do 'in depth' later...
closing up the night, here, very soon...
wow, congratulations, there.. wow... :O
:)
thanks so very kindly for sharing with us all!
edit:
you are most welcome!
ps: i am a miss, :) not a mister, :)
hard to tell by the 'online handles' (online names)
:)
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Matt's
climber
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Sep 19, 2016 - 06:18am PT
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Amazing. Bump for someone who's climb to spray ratio is incredibly high
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Sep 19, 2016 - 08:41am PT
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Cant believe there's only 3 posts about this. Next level stuff.
Maybe if he added a bolt it would get more attention
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Sep 19, 2016 - 08:50am PT
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One committed mofo.
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Hardly Visible
Social climber
Llatikcuf WA
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Sep 19, 2016 - 09:39am PT
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It doesn’t seem like it was that long ago that he was posting up trip reports of going out and doing beginner climbs with his dad on cascade climber’s forum. Sure didn’t take him long to become the real deal. Way to go Marc!
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Sep 19, 2016 - 02:03pm PT
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"Watching water turn to ice and then climbing it."
I love it. Bad ass.
He's definitely one to watch.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Sep 19, 2016 - 02:09pm PT
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Pretty damn steep learning curve from his first season down there to this! Way to red-line it!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Sep 19, 2016 - 07:28pm PT
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Jesus Christ!
!!
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111
21st century Norman Clyde
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:35am PT
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hey there say, ... just a bump, for more to enjoy this
great stuff, :)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 20, 2016 - 07:12am PT
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Wow. Super wow!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Sep 20, 2016 - 10:27am PT
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The level of accomplishment in climbing and alpinism in the world today is mind-boggling.
Wishing him continued success as well as safe travels.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Sep 20, 2016 - 12:04pm PT
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MA is fast becoming the strongest 'all around' climber in NA--if he is not this already.
Just wait 'til he hits Alaska, and the Himalaya. $$ permitting.....
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F
climber
away from the ground
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Oct 10, 2016 - 07:51pm PT
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Bump
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Oct 11, 2016 - 01:21pm PT
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Gnar Gnar
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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Oct 11, 2016 - 02:10pm PT
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
Sep 19, 2016 - 08:41am PT
Cant believe there's only 3 posts about this. Next level stuff.
Maybe if he added a bolt it would get more attention
It'd probably get mor attention if he chopped one ;)
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