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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 15, 2016 - 10:02pm PT
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Reel Rock 11 premiered in Boulder tonight and it was another in a long line of great films by Sender Films/Big Up Productions. Young guns Ashira Shiraishi and Kai Lightner were the subject of the first film. Will Stanhope's and Adam Segal's attempt to free climb a wild finger crack in the Bugaboos was the second film. Canadian climber Brette Harrington was the subject of the third film. Scenes of her free soloing a long 5.10d route in Patagonia were amazing.
The final film was a fitting climax as four climbers, including our own Supertopoan Ben Ditto, spent two months partying, singing and actually climbing some big lines in the Baffin Islands. These guys know how to have fun!
Check out the Reel Rock 11 Tour when it comes to your area. You won't be disappointed(unless one of these extraordinary people sent your project!)
http://www.reelrocktour.com/
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Sep 16, 2016 - 06:05am PT
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You won't be disappointed(unless one of these extraordinary people sent your project!)
Nice, looking forward to seeing it with the crew.
Reel Rock 11
Thursday, October 6, 2016
7:00pm 9:30pm
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labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
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Sep 17, 2016 - 08:06am PT
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Enjoyed it!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 17, 2016 - 05:52pm PT
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It's the Dodo's Delight
It's the Dodo's Delight
Shining bright and blue and white it's the Dodo's delight.....
One of the best climbing films I've see.
Prod.
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TheTye
Trad climber
Sacramento CA
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Sep 19, 2016 - 01:29pm PT
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Anybody else think the "Brette" film came up pretty short and probably not worth being in the tour? It seemed fairly shallow and non-noteworthy.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 19, 2016 - 04:15pm PT
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Anybody else think the "Brette" film came up pretty short and probably not worth being in the tour? It seemed fairly shallow and non-noteworthy.
Agreed.
I was also not impressed with the portrayal of Mike Libecki as some awesome dad. Lets face it his girlfriend ended up pregnant, he went on the expedition anyway, and followed that up with many more, and talked to pictures of his abandoned daughter. Then comes home bigger than life, and when he's not planning the next expedition, and does some menial PTA type stuff. That might make for a great mountaineer, but i'd give it a c- to a d+ on the dad front.
Shortly after Rick A went to the Desert for the first time a few years ago with Brassnuts, which is only 7 hours from here. I asked him how he had never gone to the desert in all the years he'd lived in Boulder. His answer. I was raising my family. Ding Ding Ding we have a winner. That is the sign of a good dad.
Prod.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Sep 19, 2016 - 06:15pm PT
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but i'd give it a c- to a d+ on the dad front
I find it difficult to "grade" a parent on whether or not they are good parent based on time spent together. Many of my friends work long rotations away with long times at home. It certainly isn't the choice for everyone, but I have noticed that a majority of them spend an appreciable amount of very quality time with the kiddos when they are home.
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Sep 19, 2016 - 10:35pm PT
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Prod, do you know Mike? Menial PTA work does not get you Father of the year awards multiple times at your daughter's school. His daughter has traveled with him to many continents, and has gotten a perspective on the world few at her young age have. He is a fiercely dedicated and loving father, and I really think that you might want to reconsider your attack on as good a man as you could hope to meet.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 19, 2016 - 11:55pm PT
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Art itself is open to criticism, but judging a person after a 20 minute flick is not a great idea. Can't really know a person till you walked in their shoes for a lifetime.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Sep 19, 2016 - 11:59pm PT
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Sounds pretty awesome.
Wish I was as good a dad as Prod wants us to know he is...
My dad worked 10 hours a day, I never saw him growing up, and all the cool stuff we bought as a middle class family is gone now. I'd take a Libeki any day. You should check out his interview on the Enormo he does quite a bit with his daughter.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 20, 2016 - 05:56am PT
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…and still no Dawn Wall.
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Tom Patterson
Trad climber
Seattle
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Sep 20, 2016 - 06:14am PT
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Hands down, the funniest in the series. I had real mixed feelings about the Libecki portion, too, and frankly, forgot it till just now. And I just saw it this past Friday down in Sacramento. Not gonna pass judgement on him, as I don't know him, but it left me uneasy.
Other than that...this is a great installment!
Also (as I posted on another thread), I got to hang with my good friend and Tahoe area climbing partner, Tom Stargaard. Bonus!!
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 20, 2016 - 06:41am PT
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I put it out there and I can take my lumps. Below I think Tanslacks said it better, as quoted here.
I had real mixed feelings about the Libecki portion, too, and frankly, forgot it till just now. And I just saw it this past Friday down in Sacramento. Not gonna pass judgement on him, as I don't know him, but it left me uneasy.
Wyorockman, Good points and maybe grading was a bit harsh, but I do see a difference between a parent who is away working rotation to provide for a family and a guy who is out doing his hobby/ love/ passion etc. To me, a good family member puts family first and sacrifices other pursuits.
WayneW. There was no personal attack on Mike from me, I am sure that he is a great loving compassionate kind soul. He certainly comes off that way. My criticism is in his neglect of family to pursue his mountaineering portfolio. Kids need stability, not knowing if dad is going to come home alive or not is not really reassuring. A spouse can make the decision to be with a risk taker, a kid does not have a choice.
Vitaliy M. A big part of that piece of art was portraying Mike as this great dad. It actually seemed like they went overboard on that notion to prove the point. My criticism is that I don't buy it, or as Tanslacks stated above it made him feel a little uneasy.
GDavis. I'm not a dad, I have a hard enough time providing for my dogs. I do not suppose that I'd be a better dad than Mike L either. I made a conscious effort to not be a dad knowing that I have a lot of selfish pursuits I want to pursue.
My take on the portrayal of Mike may be harsh and pointed, but I am not alone in the feeling that it didn't ring true, or left people with an uneasy feeling, or as another mountaineer friend said when discussing the film "Mountaineers suck as parents".
Cheers.
Prod.
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Sep 20, 2016 - 06:51am PT
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Anybody else think the "Brette" film came up pretty short and probably not worth being in the tour? It seemed fairly shallow and non-noteworthy.
Haven't seen the film and I don't know what the focus of Brette's part was, but her three hour free solo of Chiaro di Luna, a 750 meter 6b+ on Saint-Exupery is a pretty big milestone in Patagonia climbing.
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Mike Libecki
climber
the moment of now
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:51pm PT
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PROD,
Sorry, I did not catch your first and last name?
And, also what is your contact info and what city do you live in?
Looking forward to meet you...
Hope life is sweet!
Libecki
801 453 0855
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
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Sorry, I did not catch your first and last name?
And, also what is your contact info and where do you live?
Looking forward to meet you...
Hi Mike,
Yes sometimes life is sweet. My name is Guy Kenny. I live in Boulder Co. Why would you want to meet?
Prod.
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Sep 20, 2016 - 02:29pm PT
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I do see a difference between a parent who is away working rotation to provide for a family and a guy who is out doing his hobby/ love/ passion etc. To me, a good family member puts family first and sacrifices other pursuits.
This gets a bit sticky when a person's avocation is also their vocation.
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Prod
Trad climber
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Sep 20, 2016 - 03:08pm PT
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After a decent conversation with Mike Libecki, where I took a good earful, I feel that a public apology is necessary to go along with the verbal apology I offered over the phone.
The wording of this criticism was out of line.
I was also not impressed with the portrayal of Mike Libecki as some awesome dad. Lets face it his girlfriend ended up pregnant, he went on the expedition anyway, and followed that up with many more, and talked to pictures of his abandoned daughter. Then comes home bigger than life, and when he's not planning the next expedition, and does some menial PTA type stuff. That might make for a great mountaineer, but i'd give it a c- to a d+ on the dad front.
There is no question on Mike's devotion and love of his daughter, and any community based volunteering is hardly menial. As well, I absolutely have no right to recommend a grade for his specific parenting based on a 20 minute short.
My apologizes Mike.
Prod.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Sep 21, 2016 - 02:48pm PT
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Prod you are a good man to actually follow through, talk with the guy and apologize in public. Kudos!
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smith curry
climber
nashville,TN
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Sep 21, 2016 - 06:53pm PT
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Agreed with "Prod you are a good man to actually follow through, talk with the guy and apologize in public. Kudos!" but also kind of funny when someone anonymously rips on a public figure then gets called out by said person!
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