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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 31, 2016 - 05:47am PT
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The profile, who you are is an excellent start.( the doubt is still heavy )
We here on this site are not going to just believe Anyone,
but
if you have the experience, the 'captain is a big rock.
Nase zum Schleifstein
It is hard work. Repetitive, over And over again the same thing
till you loose the light
or the stoke to keep going.
The German ~ Nase zum Schleifstein
'nose to the Grind stone'
is the very explanation of Big Wall Yosemite climbing.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 31, 2016 - 06:04am PT
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What am I up to?
Ugh you had to ask
lm a bowling ball!
This has to be the most I will ever weigh!
Whit the holiday weekend coming up,
(I'm going to stomp up some hills,) then
And now.
and end the day,
mowing some of the lawn.
I live amongst folks with display yards.
Mine is a joke, we don't grow grass,
There are 21 scraggly trees that give us great shade.
stops the grass from growing to fast. I mow twice a summer some times,
When things get up to my ankles, I'll mow a3rd time.
I hate to kill the weeds
then there is nothing left but dirt
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gecka88
Sport climber
Germany, NRW
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2016 - 07:47am PT
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Woher willst du denn wissen welche Fehler ein deutscher macht?
Wenn Amis so tun, als würden sie Deutsch sprechen würden sie zu 100% das Wort "Schnitzel" unterbringen.
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Evel
Trad climber
Nedsterdam CO
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Aug 31, 2016 - 10:21am PT
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Adam! Time to come upstairs for breakfast honey. Mommy even made some Tang for you!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Lassitude 33
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Aug 31, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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Just ignore the a$$wipes (that's Latin). Unfortunately, this site is full of ex climbers who rather post mindless (mostly political) drivel.
Even so, some good advice. You'll be fine..
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Skeeered
Big Wall climber
the otherside of the crack
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Aug 31, 2016 - 10:26am PT
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...eff off cosmic
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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Aug 31, 2016 - 01:44pm PT
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double rack bd .3-3
one each extra .75 1 and a 4 (extra number 4 if bad at wide cracks)
1 set small cams (oo, o, 1 C3s)
offset blue/yellow, yellow/yellow orange
offset nuts small to medium
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Aug 31, 2016 - 02:42pm PT
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^^^ Sounds about right.
No need for two #5's, or even one, I imagine.
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gecka88
Sport climber
Germany, NRW
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2016 - 01:57am PT
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Didn't expect an ontopic post anymore, but thank you!
So, the recommanadtions for Black Diamond Cams are stable. You need obviously 2 sets from #0,5 (or 0,3) to #4 so in total about 14 BD C4.
What is still not so clear for me, and that was the reason for this topic. How many of the small ones like X4 and X4 Offset is senseful.
On supertopo this are the recommanded small cams for the nose http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/route_gear.php?r=ybelnose :
2 sets Metolius Master Cam
1 sets Metolius Offset Master Cam
2 Sets complete Master cam would mean 14 Cams and 1 Set offset Master cam would mean 6. So plus the C4s this would mean 34 Cams in total. I have the feeling this is a little bit to much. Also the question is, what does "set" mean? All availbe sizes one time?
So when you want to answer my question:
Beside the 14 BD C4s, how many and which sizes of the small cams (Metolius Master/BD X4) and the small offset cams (Metolius offset master/BD X4 offset) is senseful.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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It seems to me you're placing way too much emphasis on small cams, if "small" means smaller than #1 friend size. Also, the brands don't matter, who cares what hand crack sized cam you place? 4-6 small cams would be plenty, a selection of about 6 small nuts, a double set of regular nuts up to 1", the 3 smallest tricams, and triple cams from #1 friend size up to #3.5 friend size, and 2 #4s, and you should be good. The upper part of the stovelegs gets a little wide for the #4 friend, if I recall correctly. If you're not secure running it out a bit at that width, you might like one cam a step up from #4. The whole route is super secure, and you can usually get different sizes of gear in. Take a rack that will get you up Outer Limits, Midterm, and New Dimensions.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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When I climbed the nose years ago Friends had just reached the market. We had one each #1,#2,#3. The rest of the rack was hexes up to #11 and a bunch of stoppers. That rack was fine then, and would work well today: Modern gear is just a bonus.
If you free climb or leaprog in the Stovelegs then doubles is good. If you want more gear take triples. Nuts work great on the nose, so you wont need a lot of small cams, but a few wouldn't hurt.
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