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MikeL
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Great thread. Fun to read and reminisce.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 16, 2015 - 01:18pm PT
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Bump for fishtrap...
This thread is a fantastic historical resource to share with your students.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 16, 2015 - 04:54pm PT
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Bolts seem to have been "grandfathered" in because of there liberal use during the "golden age" of Yosemite. Now, it seems, the only ethical consideration is on how they are placed....top down or bottom up......hmmmm.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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May 16, 2015 - 07:32pm PT
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Appropriate usage of an old SMC hanger, chain keeper for the gate into the sheep yard.
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jonnyrig
climber
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May 16, 2015 - 10:38pm PT
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Odd little 1/4 inch above Woodfords. Head high, no hanger, just chillin there, like it was practice or something.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 16, 2015 - 11:15pm PT
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So Jim, how many bolts have you placed during your career?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 17, 2015 - 06:37am PT
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Steve....I've placed a total of two bolts by hand drill on alpine, alpine rock, or trad cragging FAs over a 49 year period. That would total hundreds of pitches....many in remote venues in Alaska, Patagonia, China, Anarctica and the Himalaya. Those two bolts were on the first ascent of Torre Egger in 1976.
I have placed around 50 bolts with a bosh drill in the last few years establishing a few sport routes around my place in Chile.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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May 17, 2015 - 06:51am PT
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But donini you have clipped a lot of other peoples bolts when repeating routes.
I wish we would only hand drill to slow down hole placement.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 17, 2015 - 07:03am PT
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Steve,
I am so glad you asked,
None.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 17, 2015 - 12:32pm PT
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Jim- I figured that you hadn't placed very many but 2 is a proud total!
I have placed hundreds of them in various situations but I consider the need for each and every one.
During the course of working on my book project with Tom Frost I asked him if he had ever stood on a bolt while placing another. He thought about it for a minute and then responded that he probably hadn't ever drilled even a two bolt ladder along the way. Then with a classic Frost grin he said" I will tell you one thing, I have chopped more bolts than I ever placed!"
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Woody the Beaver
Trad climber
Soldier, Idaho
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May 18, 2015 - 03:11pm PT
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Still life with lower jawbone of critter! The hangers still look pretty stout and well made.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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May 22, 2015 - 04:25pm PT
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I was digging through my storage and came across one of my bolt hanger display boards. Back in 1999 when I was a home husband changing diapers, I put together 20 or so display boards of bolt hangers, hooks and hand drills. This is one of the hanger boards. The first photo is the overall board, and photos below are closer up sections of the board.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 22, 2015 - 04:39pm PT
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Nice collection Marty!
BANDITO
NO GUD
BAD BOLT
How many different stampings have you seen?
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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May 22, 2015 - 05:09pm PT
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I visited Danny Langmade (Bandito) back in 1999, and this he believes is all of the different stamps or at least 95% of them which they created. I also have the Jim Waugh apartment door Bandito hangers which are stamped “M.GUD,” for that Marshall Gud story. Good times!
In my notes I show:
“Bandito” (angled stamp) 1979
“Bad Bolt” 1980
“Bandito” (vertical stamp) 1982
“No Gud” 1985
“Bandito” (horizontal stamp) 1990
“F-ED UP” 1996
“F-D UP” 1996
“ICE-T” 1996
“M. GUD” - Waugh story (don’t have the year date off hand)
For some reason I thought there was a "OH SH#T" Bandito hanger also?
Hmmmmm
Actually there is which is shown on photo middle left of Bandito hangers, photo copy on yellow card. probably 1990 era
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Along with other rusty gear, this hanger was in an auction on ebay years ago. It may be a John Pickard keyhole hanger.
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