A few questions to climb Elcap

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Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic
Kinker

Big Wall climber
Incheon
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 21, 2016 - 10:37pm PT
My team plans to climb Elcap next year but has little information of the spot. So, I’ll appreciate someone to reply for my questions.
1. Among a few cam brands such as Black Diamond, Alien, Wild Country, which one is recommendable to use on Elcap ? What is pros and cons of each brand? How about the brand named of Trango from Korea?
2. Is there any place to rent a double portaledge at Yosemite valley ?
3. On Tangerine Trip, many climbers mention that hauling from ground to 4 pitch is easy peasy however someone advised it could be dangerous because of rope damage by bounce up & down while jugging. So, I’m confused whose advice is more correct.
Please, give me an advice. It will be helpful. Thank you.
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Aug 21, 2016 - 10:57pm PT
You seek a great fortune,

you three who are now in chains.

You will find a fortune,

though it will not be the fortune you seek.

But first...

first you must travel a long and difficult road,

a road fraught with peril, mm-hmm.

You shall see things...

wonderful to tell.

You shall see a... a cow...

on the roof of a cotton house, ha.

And, oh, so many startlements.

I cannot tell you how long this road shall be,

but fear not the obstacles in your path,

for fate has...

vouchsafed your reward.

Though the road may wind,

yea, your hearts grow weary,

still shall ye follow them,

even unto your salvation.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Aug 21, 2016 - 11:37pm PT
My team plans to climb Elcap ...
Werner will be administering the last rites, and bagging/ tagging your corpses.
I'd start chanting the Maha Mantra if I was you.
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Aug 22, 2016 - 12:17am PT
Wow, tough crowd tonight.

I don't think there is anywhere to rent a portaledge. Might want to see if someone will let you borrow one, but don't think that will happen.

I'll defer to others about cams, stoppers, etc. for pro on the Trip.

Maybe buy a guide book?

Yer

gonna

die!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Aug 22, 2016 - 05:25am PT
The trip is not a good choice for a first el cap route by n000bs
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Aug 22, 2016 - 05:30am PT
3. On Tangerine Trip, many climbers mention that hauling from ground to 4 pitch is easy peasy however someone advised it could be dangerous because of rope damage by bounce up & down while jugging. So, I’m confused whose advice is more correct.


It is easier but more dangerous
Easier does not mean safer
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Aug 22, 2016 - 05:31am PT
Troll-and you know who
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Aug 22, 2016 - 08:16am PT
Lame troll, gimping along, being heavily supported by others.

It's a sad sight.
Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
Aug 22, 2016 - 10:43am PT
Among a few cam brands such as Black Diamond, Alien, Wild Country, which one is recommendable to use on Elcap ?

Also look into Totem. Everyone I know who used them like them. I like mine. I was told they really shine when aiding. Also, they make offsets that can prove useful for El Cap aiding.
madbolter1

Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
Aug 22, 2016 - 10:44am PT
While we're at it, DMT, how about this?

For $2000 per day, WE will climb the route of your choice as your proxies, so that your "team" can sit in lawn chairs in the meadow watching "your own" ascent take place. Afterward, you can return home and spray about your "ascent."

Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic
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