Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 25, 2016 - 09:39pm PT
|
The video posted in the beta section (reposted here) got me thinking...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Is this new rope toss totally contrived or kinda cool? I can't quite decide. I'm interested to see what people think about it.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2016 - 09:42pm PT
|
Contrived .....
|
|
GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2016 - 09:43pm PT
|
Looks as contrived as aid climbing
|
|
monolith
climber
state of being
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2016 - 09:44pm PT
|
I wonder what the party who put in the bolts were thinking in not getting to a normal aid or free climbing opportunity. Did they think a pendulum could get you into that crack?
Good to see a video of what needs to be done now. Looks like a knot with a locking biner clipped.
|
|
rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2016 - 10:36pm PT
|
They sound European....
That means they left a couple solid turds on the route.
Probably one in the spring too.
|
|
clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2016 - 05:31am PT
|
Noble, bull fighting.
If it's windy?
|
|
Highlife
Trad climber
California
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2016 - 01:10pm PT
|
Not even contrived, just not finished. The "bivy bros" didn't finish the route when they "fixed it", and somebody went up there and figured out this party trick.
|
|
Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2016 - 04:53pm PT
|
Maybe a little contrived but less so than a bolt ladder and also respects the wishes of the first ascensionist, Royal Robbins, according to his daughter in another Supertopo post.
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2016 - 05:34pm PT
|
Is this new rope toss totally contrived or kinda cool? I can't quite decide. I'm interested to see what people think about it.
It makes me smile to think that the best climbers can do to get around the results of a giant rockfall is to try and pull off one of the last flakes that didn't come off the last time.
I was up there in the early 80's and stepped on one of the chockstones then there and it shifted a couple inches. I didn't think a lot about it and slept on another one.
Denial isn't just a river.
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
|
|
|
Jul 26, 2016 - 07:16pm PT
|
Reminded me of Cole's FA creativity on Queen of Spades.
|
|
Oso Flaco
Gym climber
Atascadero, CA
|
|
|
Sep 20, 2016 - 10:25pm PT
|
I did the route June 3rd this year, having also done it in 2014 when the chimney was intact. The new pitch is not as fun as the old crawl out of the keyhole, but it now has more of a big-wall, aid feel to it. I think the rope toss is an awesome, unique feature of the route now and it's not difficult enough to take away from the character of the route or prevent the climb from still being what it was known as (a somewhat remote, mostly free, alpine-feeling bigwall on the most recognized rock-wall in the world, achievable by many). The pendulum to traverse and mantel is more difficult and was certainly scarier than the rope-toss section (many loose bricks on the traverse ledge at the time). One could add an additional bolt or two (higher and to the right of the corner) to again allow for a tension traverse or pendulum into the chimney, but my opinion is that it would only take a fun, unique part of the climb away; it certainly wouldn't be an exciting addition, perhaps only more convenient and certainly less adventurous. Additionally, the party who reestablished this section with the rope toss borrowed the idea from the route's first ascensionist, Royal Robbins. Alexsaunders wrote in his trip report, "I got the idea to try rope throwing from Robbins book, 'Advanced Rockcraft,' where he states, 'if you can lasso a tree or get a knot stuck in a crack to save the use of putting in bolts then it is in the finest style.'"
link to trip report, "North West Regular on Half Dome goes (updated)"
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/North-West-Regular-on-Half-Dome-goes-updated/t12839n.html
|
|
Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2016 - 10:13am PT
|
If the rope toss is really this, then it just looks dumb. Did the video guy totally mess up and attempt it from the wrong spot/wrong strategy etc or is this really what it is?
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2016 - 11:50am PT
|
I haven't been up there since the loss of the Robbins Traverse, but I'm happy to see the route retains another certain defining feature, somewhat like Thank God Ledge or the late, great Undercling Pitch.
John
|
|
i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
|
|
|
Sep 21, 2016 - 12:31pm PT
|
Look at that video, I think Lorenzo is right and I hope Clint is too!
|
|
| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!