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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Jul 31, 2016 - 05:22pm PT
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Some feedback to/for a guide book author [or a warning to potential buyers?] posted on Mountain Project about the authors guide of the same area described on Mountain Project.
Brian Scoggins
From: Laramie, WY
Jul 24, 2016
rating: 5.7
This is listed in Orenzak's guidebook as "mainline", and it's given 5 stars. It also says that you can walk off to climbers left after doing a single rappel.
What isn't stated is that you should plan on leaving slings to do that one rap, since there are no bolts, and that the descent is probably impossible as a walk off. We left some cord and a rap ring.
There's also a metric f*#kload of loose rock in the descent gulley you rap down, so my new rope is now core-shot garbage, and you absolutely must have dual 70m ropes to rappel that gulley.
Good climbing until then, but the impossibly shitty descent beta completely countered the otherwise decent experience.
F*#k you Zach Orenak. If you can't be arsed to get the right beta for your favorite first ascents in your own book, you should just leave the guidebook writing to all the former collaborators you've dicked over in the past.
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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Jul 31, 2016 - 08:38pm PT
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Well, ahem, from my advanced age, I think one very good reason to purchase those guidebooks is to have the pleasure to reliving routes we no longer climb. Guidebooks are good nostalgia, too.
I can appreciate the nuances of the route through the eyes of another, maybe several others, and not only stay current on safety considerations, but also get to enjoy some great memories. For people who have many years of climbing behind them, guidebooks are some of the simple trophies to cherish, along with photos, videos, trip notes, and maybe a rock sample or three.
Just a thought.
feralfae
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jul 31, 2016 - 08:52pm PT
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Where is that route Dingus? Zach booksindon't lean to dble 70 raps very often...
Btw is Rachel pregnant?
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Dingus McGee
Social climber
Where Safety trumps Leaving No Trace
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Hi Jaybro,
Rachael due Nov 5. Zach says they don't know who the father is.
The rock dome of the route is about 2 mi WSW of Laramie Peak just north of Bear Creek. It is big so 70m is possible. I did third class down from there but needed to use a high angle dead tree against the rock to descent one cliffy section.
Aug 23 2017 Laramie Peak is in focal area of solar eclipse. One could see early effects to the east coming quite well as you get quite a view of the eastern low lands.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Thanks Dingus.
Congrats Rachael... And Zach...
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Aug 22, 2016 - 02:06pm PT
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I believe the high resolution photodiagrams, such as those created by Mark P Thomas, are the thing of the future. Steph Abegg has also learned to produce high quality photodiagrams, perhaps from Mark, and I always look in their two websites to see if the route I plan to do is documented. I still carry a detailed topo such as Supertopo for fixed protection, climbing features, belay ledges, and other detail that would clutter a photodiagram. Word descriptions not so much anymore, unless nothing else is available.
Anyone who wishes can still use their old guidebook, and their rack of hexes and have a great day out.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!