bechtel guide- wind river range-- do not bother buying

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Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 25, 2016 - 09:42am PT
I made the mistake of buying the steve bechtel guide to the cirque of the towers/wind river range, and am warning others not to make the same mistake.

In my opinion, guidebooks like this should not exist anymore. In the age of the crowd-source dinformation on the internet, I believe guidebook authors have a higher threshold to cross before publishing a book. The book contains less information (and no more routes) than freely available sources like mountainproject or steph abegg's website. It contains no topos, just line overlays on pictures (many of the pictures coming direclty from steph abegg) and vaguely written route descriptions.

best,
matt
elemental

Gym climber
Lander, Wyoming
Jul 25, 2016 - 05:58pm PT
Hi Matt,
Thanks for the feedback. I am sorry you had a bad experience with the book. Joe and I enjoyed putting that book together back in 06/07 and have had a lot of positive feedback. I would be glad to offer you a refund if you care to send the book back my way. Hit me with a PM and we can arrange it.

Steve Bechtel

couchmaster

climber
Jul 25, 2016 - 06:17pm PT


Way to man up Steve. I've got your guidebook, love it, and do not have those issues that Matt has. This might be one of those "your results may vary kind of things". I don't tap into Mt Project except to see what the star ratings are and see if anything has fallen off any routes I plan on doing.

Regards to all -

Matt started the thread thus:
"I made the mistake of buying the steve bechtel guide to the cirque of the towers/wind river range, and am warning others not to make the same mistake.

In my opinion, guidebooks like this should not exist anymore. In the age of the crowd-source dinformation on the internet, I believe guidebook authors have a higher threshold to cross before publishing a book. The book contains less information (and no more routes) than freely available sources like mountainproject or steph abegg's website. It contains no topos, just line overlays on pictures (many of the pictures coming direclty from steph abegg) and vaguely written route descriptions.

best,
matt "
COT

climber
Door Number 3
Jul 25, 2016 - 07:30pm PT
Nice Steve!


Dave A
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 25, 2016 - 07:39pm PT
Haha...feel free to use the Kelsey book instead. I thought the Bechtel book was fine, maybe even dumbed the routes down a bit with too much detail.
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
North wet, and Da souf
Jul 25, 2016 - 07:41pm PT
I really liked Steves guide book!
And Steve is a class act!
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jul 25, 2016 - 10:07pm PT
Steve is a class act for sure. And back-country mountain guidebooks shouldn't be awash in detail; there's more than enough of that type of minutiae for all our local crags, where the people who can't do without that type of instruction should stay.

As for MP being a "better" source, something about that has always bothered me. People use guidebooks like Steve's and Joe's to get into and explore an area, post more detailed descriptions at best and thinly-veiled plagiarism at worst, and then we read complaints that MP is "better." A whole lot of MP wouldn't exist at all without the guidebooks, and I think the guidebook authors don't get their due.

So here's a contrary thought: if you use MP and find it helpful, then even if you don't use the guidebook, go out and buy it anyway as a gesture of support for the person whose hard work and dedication made most of those descriptions possible.
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2016 - 11:20pm PT
Steve is a class act for sure. And back-country mountain guidebooks shouldn't be awash in detail; there's more than enough of that type of minutiae for all our local crags, where the people who can't do without that type of instruction should stay.

As for MP being a "better" source, something about that has always bothered me. People use guidebooks like Steve's and Joe's to get into and explore an area, post more detailed descriptions at best and thinly-veiled plagiarism at worst, and then we read complaints that MP is "better." A whole lot of MP wouldn't exist at all without the guidebooks, and I think the guidebook authors don't get their due.

So here's a contrary thought: if you use MP and find it helpful, then even if you don't use the guidebook, go out and buy it anyway as a gesture of support for the person whose hard work and dedication made most of those descriptions possible.

Steve-- thanks for the offer for the refund, it's very generous. I bought the book in Pinedale, and want to support the local climbing store there.

Rgold-- your point is valid-- there is definitely cross-pollination between published guidebooks and mountainproject. The data goes both ways, probably mostly guidebook to online, though that will probably change in the future.

In the case of the climbs I was interested in the Winds, the topos and photo overlays published on mountainproject and summitpost seemed originally drawn. It's a bit hard for me to imagine how they could be plagiarized from Bechtel's book.

For example:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/109375801

http://www.summitpost.org/pingora-peak-northeast-face/121455

http://www.summitpost.org/east-ridge/64229

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/110785874

Additionally, there were a large number of Steph Abegg's photographs in the Bechtel book, and the cynical side of me wondered if they were all available on her website...

best,
matt



jaaan

Trad climber
Chamonix, France
Jul 26, 2016 - 04:13am PT
In the age of the crowd-source dinformation on the internet (...) freely available sources like mountainproject

Well THERE'S the fundamental problem with info/topos/descriptions from the internet - they are just that - a collection of random stuff from random folk who may or may not know what they're talking about. In France we have 'camptocamp' in place of Mountain Project. Topos/descriptions of any route anywhere can be posted by anyone and then further edited/added to/updated ad nauseam by anyone. C2C's champions are an ever growing community of consumers with an incredible sense of entitlement, however they overlook the fact that A LOT of the material available on their site is at best sketchy and at worst just plain wrong. With a guidebook written by a knowledgeable author you're going to get accurate descriptions and just as importantly, a consistency that is impossible with hundreds or thousands of folk's input.

And, and this is a big AND, guidebooks over here plough back profits into equipping/re-equipping/access/path reconstruction/belays etc etc. By relying on on-line stuff and not buying guides, you're cutting your own throats as it effectively reduces the flow of new routes...

Rant over (for now).

And to Steve Bechtel... congratulations, fabulous reply!
nah000

climber
no/w/here
Jul 26, 2016 - 06:24am PT
nice strawman response by Matt's to RGold: "It's a bit hard for me to imagine how they could be plagiarized from Bechtel's book."

here's part of what RGold actually wrote: "People use guidebooks like Steve's and Joe's to get into and explore an area [and] post more detailed descriptions... go out and buy [the original guidebook] anyway as a gesture of support for the person whose hard work and dedication made most of those descriptions possible."



<rant>

Matt's response is similar to a simpleton who goes to walmart, looks at a chinese made piece of nicely formed plastic of dubious quality for $5 and then bitches about the american made, more simply formed but of robust quality for $35 version... i wonder if s/he gets "cynical" over higher priced higher quality american made product as well? or just free photos on the internet?

want to get stuff for free... cool.

is there better info to be found for free... sometimes.

does a person come off as a doUche when they fail to understand and respect the work and process that has often allowed that free info to come into existence... yes.

</rant>

"best",

nah000 [less of a class act, than almost everyone else on this thread so far... except Burch of course]
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jul 26, 2016 - 08:31am PT
Yes, Matt didn't fully understand my point. Outright plagiarism on MP and SP is pretty rare in my experience, although I did recently come across a post that simply quoted the guidebook and inserted a few comments at different places.

My main point is that many, perhaps even most, of the people writing things up for MP and SP would never have made it into the areas they are documenting if not for the existing guidebooks. Even if they have improved on those guidebooks (and not introduced new errors), those improvements owe a significant debt to the guidebook authors who opened the doors for them.

So I think that almost everyone who uses information from MP and SP is piggy-backing on the work the guidebook authors put in (with the exception of one or two horrendously bad guidebooks whose authors deserve no credit for anything). Those authors are not getting rich, their hard work and expertise has been churned into free information, and I'm saying do the right thing and buy the guidebook anyway, because you wouldn't have gotten that "free" information without it.
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2016 - 08:37am PT
Matt's response is similar to a simpleton who goes to walmart, looks at a chinese made piece of nicely formed plastic of dubious quality for $5 and then bitches about the american made, more simply formed but of robust quality for $35 version... i wonder if s/he gets "cynical" over higher priced higher quality american made product as well? or just free photos on the internet?

want to get stuff for free... cool.

I think the proper analogy is that I bought the $35 american-made widget, and then realized that there was a group of people who loved making widgets in there spare time, distributed those widgets for free, and whose widgets were of higher quality than the store-bought version.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jul 26, 2016 - 08:38am PT
And those people all studied and learned from the $35 widget before attempting to make their own.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 26, 2016 - 08:50am PT
I'll take less information from one pro over the chatter of a 1000 unknowns, noobs and fools any day. The book is small and well bound, good photo quality, I liked it. This new generation can't climb w/o a move by move go-pro movie of the whole route in advance - bunch 'o fuk'n pu$$ies.

Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2016 - 08:51am PT
My main point is that many, perhaps even most, of the people writing things up for MP and SP would never have made it into the areas they are documenting if not for the existing guidebooks. Even if they have improved on those guidebooks (and not introduced new errors), those improvements owe a significant debt to the guidebook authors who opened the doors for them.

So I think that almost everyone who uses information from MP and SP is piggy-backing on the work the guidebook authors put in (with the exception of one or two horrendously bad guidebooks whose authors deserve no credit for anything). Those authors are not getting rich, their hard work and expertise has been churned into free information, and I'm saying do the right thing and buy the guidebook anyway, because you wouldn't have gotten that "free" information without it.

Rgold-- as I mentioned in a previous post, I do agree with you, there is a cross-pollination between private data (guidebooks) and public data (mountainproject). The private data is often the foundation upon which user-generated data is added.

Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2016 - 09:02am PT
And those people all studied and learned from the $35 widget before attempting to make their own.

those people bought the guidebook (most likely)-- they then went out to the wind river range, and spent their own time and effort to take their own pictures, draw their own topos, write their own route descriptions....

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 26, 2016 - 09:23am PT
There are many cases of the opposite as well where guidebook authors and other writers have "borrowed" info either freely available or from other authors as well. So there is two sides to that coin. I know when I have put up routes I usually put it on Mountain Project and I know people who have written things that end up in guidebooks and other publications without permission, credit or reimbursement. Internet seems to be a free for all and we are not going back to the telegraph.
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2016 - 09:47am PT
Well THERE'S the fundamental problem with info/topos/descriptions from the internet - they are just that - a collection of random stuff from random folk who may or may not know what they're talking about. In France we have 'camptocamp' in place of Mountain Project. Topos/descriptions of any route anywhere can be posted by anyone and then further edited/added to/updated ad nauseam by anyone. C2C's champions are an ever growing community of consumers with an incredible sense of entitlement, however they overlook the fact that A LOT of the material available on their site is at best sketchy and at worst just plain wrong. With a guidebook written by a knowledgeable author you're going to get accurate descriptions and just as importantly, a consistency that is impossible with hundreds or thousands of folk's input.

That's the whole point of my post-- I really like guidebooks, I own probably 20 of them. Most of the time, the guidebook has been the authoritative and factually correct voice, with the public information being mostly useless. The only reason I started this post was because, in my opinion, the mountainproject information for cirque of the towers was of higher quality than the Bechtel guidebook (and without being plagiaristic or derivative, in my opinion).
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
Jul 26, 2016 - 10:09am PT
RGold has brought forth some very good points, which Matt seems to acknowledge. Both on line and print guides have strengths and weaknesses.

Crowd sourced on-line route information, at its worst, is poorly vetted and hugely inconsistent in accuracy and detail. At its best, it doesn't have the space limitations of print media and can provide additional information, detail and historical context -- as well as benefiting from a larger consensus opinion.

In practice, MP and other on-line route descriptions (unlike Wikipedia) can only be edited by the original poster (or MP administrators). As such, descriptions and accuracy varies wildly. And, for more obscure routes and areas it may not be entirely trustworthy. Information can also be incomplete.

Print guides do not have the luxury of providing a lot of extra details and ideally should be concise, while providing enough accurate information to get you to, be able to follow the line of, and descend off a particular climb.

The strength and weakness of a print guide is that one (or more) people compiled and wrote the entire book. There tends to be a consistency in the information (for the better or worse). Also, in the best cases, the authors have personally checked out each climb -- even those obscure or less popular routes which on-line data or most climbers ignore.

Putting together a guidebook involves gathering information from a wide variety of sources, formats and quality. Today that means looking at on-line sources of information, as that may be the primary source of information about a particular climb. Then, this information should be field checked, corrected and written (drawn) up in a consistent manner, adding details as necessary.

Climbing routes and inspecting the crags personally means that other routes or conditions may be noted for which no information is currently available, resulting in more investigation and research. Depending on the diligence of the author(s), the results always vary.

But, unless you have undertaken putting together a guide (even to a relatively small area), you can't really fully appreciate the work that goes into such projects. My hat is off to anyone brave or foolish enough to slog through the process. Their effort is typically under-appreciated, and always wide open to critique.

Personally, I have found that the most valuable aspect of MP (as a guidebook editor) is the consensus opinions as far as ratings are concerned. Absent such an on-line resource, getting the opinions of so many people as to the difficulty or quality of a route would be near impossible. Not that these are always to be taken as gospel, but, they absolutely help.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Jul 26, 2016 - 11:22am PT
I want the "best" and I feel cheated when I don't get it - what is up with that piece of this sh!tshow? Too much Facebook = a self esteem tied to rampant consumerism?
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