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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jul 30, 2017 - 06:42pm PT
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Interesting developments in this story.
Reknowned 65 year old New Zealand guide Russell Brice, one of the first to organize commercial tours to Everest, has decided to quit the business after retreating from K2 saying it was too dangerous, just before a group organized by Destination Dreamers from Rolwaling, Nepal, went up, summited and safely returned. Among the summiters was the first American woman to do so.
I believe this is the turning point for a new generation of Himalayan guides.
Here are the stats as posted by Dawa Gyalje Sherpa.
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1.Mr. Mingma G Sherpa- climbed in 2014 without oxygen and 2017 with oxygen. 2 times K2 summit/highest summit record.
2.Mr. Dawa Gyalje Sherpa- In 2014, his sister, Ms Dawa Yangzum Sherpa climbed K2 being first Nepalese woman and now they are the world's only brother and sister to climb K2.
3.Mr. Tsering Pemba Sherpa- His first Summit on K2. Now we are 9 K2 Summiters from Rolwaling valley, Nepal.
4. Mr. Nima Tshering Sherpa- His first K2 summit.
5. Mr. Lhakpa Nuru Sherpa-He became the first K2 Summiter from Juving-1,Nepal.
6. Mr Nima Nuru Sherpa-He is third Nepalese to Summit K2 without oxygen after Pemba Gyaljen Sherpa in 2008 and Mingma Gyalje Sherpa in 2014.
7. Mr. Fazal-only Pakistani to climb K2 twice and also without oxygen
8. Mr Zhang Liang, China climbed 13X8000m peaks including K2
9. Mr Liu Yong Zhong,China climbed 10X8000m peaks including K2
10. Ms Dong Hongjuan,China climbed 9X8000m peaks including K2
11. Ms. Vanessa O'brien from USA completed 5X8000m peaks and became first American Woman on K2.
12. Mr. John Snorri became first person from Iceland on K2 and he will be receiving Medal of Honor from his country's President. Congratulations John."
http://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2017/07/28/russell-brice-announces-end-of-guiding-career/
https://www.facebook.com/dawagyalje.sherpa?fref=nf
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 30, 2017 - 07:36pm PT
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Jan, I have no doubt that a new generation of guides is ascendant, and I have no doubt that they will be more skilled than their predecessors. The first guides in the Alps were shepherds and their descendants became skilled climbers and guides. I also know that you want a better life for sherpas and that guiding is their ticket and I think that is great. So much for the guides and may they continue to prosper.
The clients are another matter. Not to worry, their name is legion and there will be no shortage, especially when doing a guided ascent will get you a medal from your countries government. Erik Shipton started his career being guided in the Alps. He realized that his climbs were tainted and exulted when he moved on to "guideless climbs." Well, their aren't many Erik Shiptons in the world and summiting by any means to add to your bucket list has a grand future.
Fortunately, there are many peaks in the Himalaya and elsewhere that do not capitulate so easily. The hardest summits are invariably, across the globe, not the highest summits. There are 7,000 meter peaks in the Himalaya and 3,000 meter peaks in Alaska and Patagonia that repel team after team of highly skilled alpinists.
I was in a hut at the Vinson basecamp in Antarctica a number of years ago. Dick Bass, author of "The Seven Summits" was holding court. He refreshingly, when asked about his accomplishment, said, "I never said I was a climber...hell, I can't even tie a knot. I get up those things because I have great lungs from talking so much."
It's a big world and there are mountains out there to amuse everyone. Some, because of their prominence in being the highest will forever be sought for bragging rights at the water cooler in a Manhattan law firm. Others will continue to test the skill and daring of the most committed alpinists.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Jul 30, 2017 - 07:54pm PT
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^^^^^^ True.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Jul 30, 2017 - 11:40pm PT
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Wise words Jim.
One of the things I also hope for is that the Sherpas will eventually, through being better trained and certified, have the confidence to say no to clients who are unprepared and incompetent, thereby saving the lives of both clients and guides.
I would be interested to know how this was accomplished in the Alps and what the turning point was.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jul 31, 2017 - 11:20am PT
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K2 seems like a poor peak for guiding and would require careful vetting of clients.
Only experienced alpine climbers need apply.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 31, 2017 - 11:56am PT
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But that won't happen.
There will be fools, and people will die.
What craziness! Guiding K2 is playing russian roulette with extra bullets.
(And Jan, soloing El Cap is not as dangerous as doing it tied to a fool,..)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Jul 31, 2017 - 04:07pm PT
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The type of people you need for clients on K2 are the people who have no need for a guide.
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