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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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Jul 11, 2016 - 04:43pm PT
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The Instagram post says Stately Pleasure Dome but the other says Tenaya Peak.
"On a large roof above Tenaya Peak, a thin diagonaling crack splits the rock"
Instagrasm says; "before realizing the seepage was not coming from snowmelt, but from late summer thunderstorms collecting water in a hidden cauldron atop Stately Pleasure Dome."
That would be a long seepe
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Matt's
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2016 - 05:18pm PT
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mike-- yeah i think you're right! I guess that climb was way harder than i thought...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Jul 11, 2016 - 05:20pm PT
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On a large roof above Tenaya Peak, ...
God's own ceiling, as it were.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Jul 11, 2016 - 07:47pm PT
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Bolted over 30 years ago by Chris Falkenstein LMFAO
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Joe
Social climber
Santa Cruz
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Jul 12, 2016 - 06:43am PT
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the grasshopper crushes!
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Alex Baker
climber
Portland
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Jul 12, 2016 - 08:16am PT
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Something worth visiting Supertopo for! Maybe we could talk Eric into telling us a short story about Top Gun history and his efforts?
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Josh Holmes
Trad climber
UT
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Jul 12, 2016 - 08:33am PT
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only 14 in TM?
There is one that I had heard was possibly that difficult.
I had heard that Ron Kauk's route Broken Arrow was uprated from 13c to 13d/14a, after the "jug" before a very difficult move transitioning from the crack to the face broke off.
Does anyone know what grade Broken Arrow was finally given?
Regardless, Top Gun always seemed next generation...Great Send! glad to see it go down.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Jul 12, 2016 - 08:41am PT
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I remember walking by that thing wanting to steal the draws but not. Looks super hard and in a grassy weird spot. Funny how often the hardest routes sometimes end up in these funky alcoves with vegetation and sh!t.
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Jul 12, 2016 - 10:30am PT
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I'm with GDavis. I walked by that thing for years wondering and imagining.
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Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
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Jul 12, 2016 - 01:17pm PT
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I remember watching Kurt Smith try it a number to times aeons ago. Good it finally got a send.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Aug 30, 2016 - 10:45am PT
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cool, i saw the first ascent happen from a distance. i would have stayed to watch if i had known eric was about to send as heather and i descended the dome. congrats to eric on an impressive send.
only 5.14 in the meadows? i don't think so. my 2 routes on medlicott, circus-virus and raging waters, although still unrepeated after 25 years or so, i believe are 5.14, and are harder than to bolt or not to be which i did around the same time, early 90"s.
also, although over the pass, lonni kauk's thnuderheart at toga crag is 5.14.
ss
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Keenan T made the second
Katie L. sent it today!
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katiebird
climber
yosemite
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Broken Arrow has settled at 13d.
Shipoopi's two routes could very well be clocking in at 5.14. I checked out Circus-Circus some time ago, it was nails hard crimping on holds that would at times disappear, never to be seen again.
Rising Sun is also 5.14 now due to some breakage and has only had 1 repeat by Pete Chasse.
Top Gun, which was once the longest standing undone rig has now seen 3 ascents - not only is it incredibly technical and bouldery but it just might be one of the most finicky and conditions dependent routes I've climbed on. Much like Eric, it took me a few summers of enduring wetness to finally get it while the getting was good. The bolted part is surely the crux, but the route is much more than just those three bolts, don't underestimate the thuggy 5.12 crack which awaits you after.
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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Katiebird, congratulations on your terrific send!
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Ran into Katie today at the Gear Exchange & got to congratulate her in person!
So Badass...way to do the time and stick with it!
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| Messages 1 - 16 of total 16 in this topic |
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