What happened to the new Yosemite guidebook thread?

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 78 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
briham89

Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
Dec 7, 2018 - 04:02pm PT
Frankly, itís one of the worst climbing hangs in America

Yep
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Dec 8, 2018 - 10:40am PT
Anyway, we're getting closer.
No date - nothing measurable to report - laundry list of excuses - directly translates to "You'll never see it."

Erik's book is fine. Anything further is going to be a tome of obscure choss piles IMO - as if we're all waiting for some big secret to be exposed in one of the most over-run climbing areas on the planet.

Erik will probably add a 1000 more routes and a few more editions before we see anything from these guys. It's better to take action and do something and make mistakes and learn from them than to do nothing. In the same span of time, I would wager Erik's approach yields a more accurate and comprehensive guidebook.
Dickbob

climber
Westminster Colorado
Dec 8, 2018 - 01:22pm PT
I read a lot. Mostly fiction. In between novels I sometimes like to read guide books. I can read them cover to cover no matter how bad they are written. Right now I am in between books. I know what is going to be under the Christmas tree and I am going to start that next. A couple of nights ago my wife asked me what I'm reading and it is Steve Levin's Eldo guide. I have read it before of course. This is probably my third time and I
believe you don't need to be an active climber to be fully engaged by it.

With all do respect, I don't agree with JLP. Sounds like Mr Hartouni's book will be as quality as the Levine guide, who knows. I don't but I hope he will take his time and do it right like Steve did so I can read it again and again when I am old and retired.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Feb 19, 2019 - 12:24pm PT
W L
doh! thats wicked `n funny

Any labor of love is worth waiting for.

Think of my favorite, da`troll regularly removed
His scion has popped out not one but two
Given that~he'll be able to get them copies
just in time for when the youngest spurt
is ready to climb outside the gym.
You, Them & all Those lucky Californians.

dhayan

climber
culver city, ca
Feb 19, 2019 - 08:03pm PT
How come youíre wearing a tie but no shirt?
couchmaster

climber
Feb 20, 2019 - 12:34pm PT


^^Weston, cracking me up!^^

Chill everyone. The Yosemite Climbing Guide will come out once all the aid routes are free.



couchmaster

climber
Feb 25, 2019 - 08:58am PT

photo not found
Missing photo ID#553615

Seriously, wish them the best, it's an assload of work.
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 26, 2019 - 09:05am PT
...lighten up people, this is an ambitious project...
[Click to View Linked Image]
tuolumne_tradster

Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
Feb 26, 2019 - 11:07am PT
Operative word here is ďcomprehensiveĒ... i.e.,this will be the Mother of all Yosemite guidebooks.

EDIT: each of the boxes on the mule ^^^ contains 1 guidebook ;-)
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Feb 26, 2019 - 07:24pm PT
Rumor has it that the Able one is traveling exploring new book opportunities in Nepal...
ablegabel

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 28, 2019 - 08:47am PT
Well, I donít usually respond to these threads. But here it goes...

The topos are all drawn. They have been done for over a year and a half. All of the estimated 3,500 something routes have been redrawn and corrected.

The written description are about half done.

The overlays still need to be done onto photos.

Much of the cliff pictures have already been taken. Some still need to be done.

Ed has remastered all of my hand drawn topos to make them book quality.

Ed has also started formatting finished pages, with the route description and topos merged onto one page.

This book wouldnít be happening with out Edís help and considerable abilities.

Iíve been in India for a month. Iím going to be here for another month, then going to Nepal for one more month. So nothing is going to get done on the book till May. I like to travel and unfortunately this book isnít my top priority in life, so thereís that.

This book project sat for well over twenty years before anyone stepped up to tackle it. There wasnít a lot of volunteers. Donnyís last update was in 2005 and never got published. It had maybe 100-150 new routes? Iím guessing there are about a thousand new routes weíve added, but Iíve never counted so donít hold me to that.

Iíve put in well over 8,000+ hours working on this project, and tens of thousands of dollars to do the work necessary to complete this. Ed has also put in tons and tons of time. We both work full time jobs and tackle this in our free time, which means we donít get a lot of free time because of this project.

Clint Cummins has helped a great deal with sharing information with us, and this book would not be what it is without his help, but heís busy with other things and has chosen to no longer be directly involved for the most part, other than keeping in touch and giving us updates from time to time. He has spent countless marathon sessions at my house exchanging information with me. Heís also busy investigating new routes and often passes that on to us. So please donít hassle him about the book.

Iíve spent decades climbing lesser known routes in Yosemite trying to figure out where they go. Now weíve been trying to get the information written down so everyone can have it.

I donít get paid for this and neither does Ed. For all the supporters of our effort ďthanksĒ. For all the complainers, I understand your frustration, but negativity doesnít help keep us motivated.

If youíre unhappy about not knowing what routes are out there, do what I did, hike to many hundreds of cliffs and climb thousands of routes to find out where they go. If there isnít an established route on the cliff when you get there, put up one of your own.

If anyone wants to help instead of complain, please volunteer. There are many obscure and/or hard routes that we need more information on. There are many people who have stepped forward and really helped this project along by giving routes a test drive (you know who you are and a ďBig Thanks to YaĒ!). Hundreds of people have helped with information on this book. Many have spent endless hours going over topos with me and helping get new ones drawn. We are striving for accuracy.

As always, if anyone is interested in some route, you can always email me.
ablegabel@earthlink.net

Well I hope that sheds some light on the book, or gives ya some fuel for your internet ranting.
(I do enjoy the funny pictures sometimes with the commentary).

All the best - Eric Gabel

mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Feb 28, 2019 - 09:08am PT
Eric and Ed,

Thanks for keeping this going. It's frustrating and thankless work, similar in some ways to just painting a target on your back. I'm pretty sure though, when it's done, you'll be very happy that you took it on.

And so will we.

Thanks for the update.
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Feb 28, 2019 - 09:15am PT
Iíve been in India for a month. Iím going to be here for another month, then going to Nepal for one more month ... we donít get a lot of free time because of this project.
Nice work - but your post is full of exaggeration, contradiction and ego.

TLDR: the book will never arrive. Donny obviously passed the baton to the wrong people.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Feb 28, 2019 - 09:25am PT
^^^

And your post is full of arrogance and negativity. Ah, but par for the course with this internet persona.

Curious whether you've ever done anything positive in your life JLP?
JLP

Social climber
The internet
Feb 28, 2019 - 09:40am PT
I'm wondering if these guys have ever finished a substantial project in their lives. Everything posted suggests NO. What qualified them for taking on this one other than wanting to bring attention to themselves?
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Feb 28, 2019 - 09:54am PT

I'm wondering if these guys have ever finished a substantial project in their lives. Everything posted suggests NO. What qualified them for taking on this one other than wanting to bring attention to themselves?

^^^

Have you ever actually met either one of them?

I suppose I have an advantage over you in that I have met them both. And knowing them gives me confidence in their ability to stick this out and produce a great book.

But turning more to your question. "What qualified them..." Asking that seems legitimate. How about that they were willing? That's a huge qualifying factor with a job this big. I certainly didn't see anyone else jump at the chance. No-one. Not you and not me.

Other qualifications include decades of experience with Yosemite climbing, excellent connections in the climbing community, and proven ability in their vocational lives (tending to show an ability to stick it out and to produce).

Let's turn the question around: JLP, what qualifies you to jump to the nasty and negative conclusions that they're in it for ego and self aggrandizement? How do you get to claim that they've never "finished a substantial project in their lives?"

JLP

Social climber
The internet
Feb 28, 2019 - 10:19am PT
How about that they were willing? That's a huge qualifying factor with a job this big. I certainly didn't see anyone else jump at the chance. No-one. Not you and not me.
You're posting from the same fantasy world as UnAble. Erik asked for that material but was denied - because he's, well, Erik - but now he's on his own 3rd (?) edition, despite all the competition, snipes and general negativity directed at him straight from these clowns. That's willing. These guys are not willing - they'd obviously much rather just talk about it and receive praise.
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Feb 28, 2019 - 10:33am PT
I think I'm hearing JLP volunteer to do his own Valley guidebook?

It'll be perfect, of course. Chop, chop, get your ass in gear. I want my copy as soon as the rain stops.

Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Feb 28, 2019 - 12:13pm PT
Race time, which sees the light of day first, this or Peachesí new Valley bouldering guide?

My first guess would be the bouldering guide, but considering Peaches has left Cali to push climbing propaganda from CO and handed it off to a doctoral student, the Comprehensive guide may have a chance.

Add to that the fact that heís not getting any younger and could find himself changing a mini-nanigan any time now and I may give the edge to Ed and Gabel(Dr. H already has his Higher and Deeper so thatís another advantage).

Place your bets now(or later, weíve probably got some time)!
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Feb 28, 2019 - 01:11pm PT
JLP, looks like your head is messed up, confusing being direct vs being rude + twisting facts.

After JLP posts I feel my jokes up the tread kind of inappropriate [ despite I still think they are funny]

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