Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 74 of total 74 in this topic |
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 11, 2016 - 12:04pm PT
|
I am pretty bad at the taco search thing, but I can't find it. Please tell me it was nuked to make room for political and gun threads.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2016 - 12:46pm PT
|
Was it a guidebook by someone other than CMac?
Mystery solved.....
|
|
Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2016 - 12:55pm PT
|
So stoked on this book.
Good one Locker.
|
|
labrat
Trad climber
Erik O. Auburn, CA
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2016 - 01:11pm PT
|
I guess he pushed it a little too far with the advice thread on how to write a guidebook...........
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2016 - 01:14pm PT
|
Woot the fook?
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2016 - 01:24pm PT
|
fook the book
|
|
overwatch
climber
Arizona
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2016 - 01:57pm PT
|
woot is moot
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2016 - 05:54pm PT
|
da woot is mootWhen he was goingand what a portrait of ESloan Inspired by Locker !
|
|
couchmaster
climber
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2016 - 09:02pm PT
|
OMG did they came out with the book and then sold out immediately and I missed it? Next release v2 will be 2024 ......WUT??!!!!
|
|
this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2016 - 10:43pm PT
|
There was some good stuff in that thread. Plenty of dumb sh#t too, but better than any of the political stuff. Oh well, see you guys around. Woot.
|
|
overwatch
climber
Arizona
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2016 - 10:52pm PT
|
woot yah later
vvvvv seems like there is an answer right there just out of my grasp what is it....don't read them?
|
|
F
climber
away from the ground
|
|
|
Jul 11, 2016 - 11:04pm PT
|
Yeah, it seems like somebody started cleaning up around here a bit. If they could just get rid of the mutual masturbation on the gun threads that 'Lil Bang Bang, Cozmic, and Madbolter are enjoying so much, my A.M. Toilet reading would be much improved.
|
|
Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2016 - 04:16am PT
|
Ironically, that was a climbing thread, and it dealt with more than just the guidebook. Maybe half had to do with Sloan's incessant retrobolting.
Why was the Trump thread locked, and not discarded?
|
|
couchmaster
climber
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2016 - 06:10am PT
|
I see, not the new Ed H/Clint/ablegable book but the one Erik Sloan was selling. Looks like Chris Mac or someone woke up and said: "hey, he's competing with us and using our venue to push his product" and whacked his thread. It's all gone: http://www.supertopo.com/inc/view_forum.php?dcid=ODo6Ozg3OSI,
The moderators froze the Donald Trump thread and deleted Klimmers account. ie "This thread has been locked". Guess all the political whack jobs have to go to the Hillary thread now.
|
|
Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2016 - 07:07am PT
|
So much time...so little drama...
|
|
Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2016 - 08:09am PT
|
WTF (Woot the F*#k) is going on, mods took out the trash finally
Woot boy's guidebook is very nice, too bad he can't tone himself down.
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2018 - 11:25am PT
|
Thread bump from 1984.
When will we see Clint and Ed's book? Was it already published, sold out and all memory of it lost? Seems just as possible to me.
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2018 - 02:42pm PT
|
Working on it mostly driven by Eric Gabel right now.
Some of you reading this thread have gotten a page to go out and “test drive” and we’re incorporating past guidebook information.
Obviously we’d have liked to have finished this up earlier, but if you’ve ever contemplated writing a guide to a major climbing area with 90 years of “modern” climbing you are you can imagine the magnitude of the project.
No excuses, just working to finish. I don’t have many free hours because of it. But climbers climb, I’m on I-10 on my way back from “The Chise” after a week of climbing (in between the rain and wind).
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
|
|
|
Feb 24, 2018 - 05:11pm PT
|
We're waiting for your trip report on that! Ed!!
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2018 - 11:29am PT
|
Is it really any surprise these promised books from mega prolific posters never actually seem to happen?
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Sep 25, 2018 - 12:23pm PT
|
The work is real, the binders are real. Many of us have benefitted from tiny sips of the work already. When it's done the book will be an amazing thing to have.
I am excited as hell for the book and I am aware the the book will not be published on your timeline or mine. Like you and like me, these fellas have lives to live, jobs to hold down, people to love, and rocks to climb.
|
|
couchmaster
climber
|
|
Give yourselves a timeline cutoff. Reach out to folks to get assistance if you need it. Editing in particular.
Good luck!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
Is it really any surprise these promised books from mega prolific posters never actually seem to happen?
is it really any surprise that JLP makes snarky comments without any information at all about what's going on?
we were showing things around at FaceLift...
we are getting help with editing...
thanks for all your support.
|
|
yosguns
climber
|
|
The guidebook is real. The guidebook is really good. I'm excited! <3
|
|
Mr_T
Trad climber
Northern California
|
|
Bump for the comprehensive guide! We're all very much looking forward to it!
|
|
anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2018 - 03:23pm PT
|
Kingtut: I know eh!!!
Jeez. All the people I ran into a couple weeks back in yosemite were just not going to climb until the new guidebook came out!
People from Chile, Canada, UK, Czech, etc.. all coming to Yosemite to climb but so disappointed that the only book around was Sloan’s guide, they just said “f*#k this select shit” and left
Right...
🙄
|
|
Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2018 - 04:02pm PT
|
Amen Anita, remember a few months back when some poor soul was looking for opinions on which guide to get and the cool kids told him to wait for the “real” guide? Bet he wished he’d waited.
This guide sounds great, and I can’t wait to buy it, but pretending there are no adequate books on the market right now sounds like the kind of VC tribalism that everyone insists doesn’t exist anymore.
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
it is not funny anymore for me . I kind of lost sense of humor waiting for this book.
since 2012 I was thinking ok maybe one more year one more year. ..
Before: would I get this book before I retire from climbing?
now : would I survive before this book be available?
|
|
Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
|
|
Weston, you are cracking me up!
Too funny.
|
|
Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
Dec 4, 2018 - 05:00pm PT
it is not funny anymore for me . I kind of lost sense of humor waiting for this book.
since 2012 I was thinking ok maybe one more year one more year. ..
Before: would I get this book before I retire from climbing?
now : would I survive before this book be available?
I suspect the editors have to finish the plane crash book first.
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
Fear not, for I have touched the sacred tomes (yes plural). You'll get it when its ready - sometime between tomorrow and before Vitally is out to pasture.
It's really a thing of beauty...
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
The real need is for a guidebook on how to deal with the Valley hang. Climbers from around the world pilgrimage to Yosemite much like the muslim faithful go to Mecca. Unfortunately, the Valley, vis a vis climbers, is not easy or hospitable. Frankly, it’s one of the worst climbing hangs in America. Some pointers for the uninitiated would be priceless...once there, set up and cozy, finding the climbs will be a piece of cake.
|
|
Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
|
|
The guests wont remember what time dinner was served, but they will remember the taste.
Best of luck with your endeavor.
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
if dinner served when guests die from hunger no one remember how well it was cooked
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
Alexey, hopefully the guidebook will be completed before you go out to pasture, but if it is not, you can at least feel good that you contributed both information about climbs and in previewing topos for the new book (which we've made available to you because of your interest and knowledge and abilities). That is a great legacy to provide to the younger generation of climbers.
I'd like to thank you here and now for your contributions in the event you don't live long enough to read the acknowledgements in the book..
Ed, as we are about the same age , it is good that you are writing this now, since acknowledgements in the book can be written by someone else - who will inherit from you all those precious sacred tomes
Woot , Woot
|
|
briham89
Big Wall climber
santa cruz, ca
|
|
Frankly, it’s one of the worst climbing hangs in America
Yep
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
Anyway, we're getting closer. No date - nothing measurable to report - laundry list of excuses - directly translates to "You'll never see it."
Erik's book is fine. Anything further is going to be a tome of obscure choss piles IMO - as if we're all waiting for some big secret to be exposed in one of the most over-run climbing areas on the planet.
Erik will probably add a 1000 more routes and a few more editions before we see anything from these guys. It's better to take action and do something and make mistakes and learn from them than to do nothing. In the same span of time, I would wager Erik's approach yields a more accurate and comprehensive guidebook.
|
|
Dickbob
climber
Westminster Colorado
|
|
I read a lot. Mostly fiction. In between novels I sometimes like to read guide books. I can read them cover to cover no matter how bad they are written. Right now I am in between books. I know what is going to be under the Christmas tree and I am going to start that next. A couple of nights ago my wife asked me what I'm reading and it is Steve Levin's Eldo guide. I have read it before of course. This is probably my third time and I
believe you don't need to be an active climber to be fully engaged by it.
With all do respect, I don't agree with JLP. Sounds like Mr Hartouni's book will be as quality as the Levine guide, who knows. I don't but I hope he will take his time and do it right like Steve did so I can read it again and again when I am old and retired.
|
|
Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2019 - 12:24pm PT
|
W L
doh! thats wicked `n funny
Any labor of love is worth waiting for.
Think of my favorite, da`troll regularly removed
His scion has popped out not one but two
Given that~he'll be able to get them copies
just in time for when the youngest spurt
is ready to climb outside the gym.
You, Them & all Those lucky Californians.
|
|
dhayan
climber
culver city, ca
|
|
|
Feb 19, 2019 - 08:03pm PT
|
How come you’re wearing a tie but no shirt?
|
|
couchmaster
climber
|
|
|
Feb 20, 2019 - 12:34pm PT
|
^^Weston, cracking me up!^^
Chill everyone. The Yosemite Climbing Guide will come out once all the aid routes are free.
|
|
couchmaster
climber
|
|
|
Feb 25, 2019 - 08:58am PT
|
Seriously, wish them the best, it's an assload of work.
|
|
tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2019 - 09:05am PT
|
...lighten up people, this is an ambitious project...
|
|
tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2019 - 11:07am PT
|
Operative word here is “comprehensive”... i.e.,this will be the Mother of all Yosemite guidebooks.
EDIT: each of the boxes on the mule ^^^ contains 1 guidebook ;-)
|
|
kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
|
|
|
Feb 26, 2019 - 07:24pm PT
|
Rumor has it that the Able one is traveling exploring new book opportunities in Nepal...
|
|
ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 08:47am PT
|
Well, I don’t usually respond to these threads. But here it goes...
The topos are all drawn. They have been done for over a year and a half. All of the estimated 3,500 something routes have been redrawn and corrected.
The written description are about half done.
The overlays still need to be done onto photos.
Much of the cliff pictures have already been taken. Some still need to be done.
Ed has remastered all of my hand drawn topos to make them book quality.
Ed has also started formatting finished pages, with the route description and topos merged onto one page.
This book wouldn’t be happening with out Ed’s help and considerable abilities.
I’ve been in India for a month. I’m going to be here for another month, then going to Nepal for one more month. So nothing is going to get done on the book till May. I like to travel and unfortunately this book isn’t my top priority in life, so there’s that.
This book project sat for well over twenty years before anyone stepped up to tackle it. There wasn’t a lot of volunteers. Donny’s last update was in 2005 and never got published. It had maybe 100-150 new routes? I’m guessing there are about a thousand new routes we’ve added, but I’ve never counted so don’t hold me to that.
I’ve put in well over 8,000+ hours working on this project, and tens of thousands of dollars to do the work necessary to complete this. Ed has also put in tons and tons of time. We both work full time jobs and tackle this in our free time, which means we don’t get a lot of free time because of this project.
Clint Cummins has helped a great deal with sharing information with us, and this book would not be what it is without his help, but he’s busy with other things and has chosen to no longer be directly involved for the most part, other than keeping in touch and giving us updates from time to time. He has spent countless marathon sessions at my house exchanging information with me. He’s also busy investigating new routes and often passes that on to us. So please don’t hassle him about the book.
I’ve spent decades climbing lesser known routes in Yosemite trying to figure out where they go. Now we’ve been trying to get the information written down so everyone can have it.
I don’t get paid for this and neither does Ed. For all the supporters of our effort “thanks”. For all the complainers, I understand your frustration, but negativity doesn’t help keep us motivated.
If you’re unhappy about not knowing what routes are out there, do what I did, hike to many hundreds of cliffs and climb thousands of routes to find out where they go. If there isn’t an established route on the cliff when you get there, put up one of your own.
If anyone wants to help instead of complain, please volunteer. There are many obscure and/or hard routes that we need more information on. There are many people who have stepped forward and really helped this project along by giving routes a test drive (you know who you are and a “Big Thanks to Ya”!). Hundreds of people have helped with information on this book. Many have spent endless hours going over topos with me and helping get new ones drawn. We are striving for accuracy.
As always, if anyone is interested in some route, you can always email me.
ablegabel@earthlink.net
Well I hope that sheds some light on the book, or gives ya some fuel for your internet ranting.
(I do enjoy the funny pictures sometimes with the commentary).
All the best - Eric Gabel
|
|
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 09:08am PT
|
Eric and Ed,
Thanks for keeping this going. It's frustrating and thankless work, similar in some ways to just painting a target on your back. I'm pretty sure though, when it's done, you'll be very happy that you took it on.
And so will we.
Thanks for the update.
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 09:15am PT
|
I’ve been in India for a month. I’m going to be here for another month, then going to Nepal for one more month ... we don’t get a lot of free time because of this project. Nice work - but your post is full of exaggeration, contradiction and ego.
TLDR: the book will never arrive. Donny obviously passed the baton to the wrong people.
|
|
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 09:25am PT
|
^^^
And your post is full of arrogance and negativity. Ah, but par for the course with this internet persona.
Curious whether you've ever done anything positive in your life JLP?
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 09:40am PT
|
I'm wondering if these guys have ever finished a substantial project in their lives. Everything posted suggests NO. What qualified them for taking on this one other than wanting to bring attention to themselves?
|
|
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 09:54am PT
|
I'm wondering if these guys have ever finished a substantial project in their lives. Everything posted suggests NO. What qualified them for taking on this one other than wanting to bring attention to themselves?
^^^
Have you ever actually met either one of them?
I suppose I have an advantage over you in that I have met them both. And knowing them gives me confidence in their ability to stick this out and produce a great book.
But turning more to your question. "What qualified them..." Asking that seems legitimate. How about that they were willing? That's a huge qualifying factor with a job this big. I certainly didn't see anyone else jump at the chance. No-one. Not you and not me.
Other qualifications include decades of experience with Yosemite climbing, excellent connections in the climbing community, and proven ability in their vocational lives (tending to show an ability to stick it out and to produce).
Let's turn the question around: JLP, what qualifies you to jump to the nasty and negative conclusions that they're in it for ego and self aggrandizement? How do you get to claim that they've never "finished a substantial project in their lives?"
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 10:19am PT
|
How about that they were willing? That's a huge qualifying factor with a job this big. I certainly didn't see anyone else jump at the chance. No-one. Not you and not me. You're posting from the same fantasy world as UnAble. Erik asked for that material but was denied - because he's, well, Erik - but now he's on his own 3rd (?) edition, despite all the competition, snipes and general negativity directed at him straight from these clowns. That's willing. These guys are not willing - they'd obviously much rather just talk about it and receive praise.
|
|
mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 10:33am PT
|
I think I'm hearing JLP volunteer to do his own Valley guidebook?
It'll be perfect, of course. Chop, chop, get your ass in gear. I want my copy as soon as the rain stops.
|
|
Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 12:13pm PT
|
Race time, which sees the light of day first, this or Peaches’ new Valley bouldering guide?
My first guess would be the bouldering guide, but considering Peaches has left Cali to push climbing propaganda from CO and handed it off to a doctoral student, the Comprehensive guide may have a chance.
Add to that the fact that he’s not getting any younger and could find himself changing a mini-nanigan any time now and I may give the edge to Ed and Gabel(Dr. H already has his Higher and Deeper so that’s another advantage).
Place your bets now(or later, we’ve probably got some time)!
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 01:11pm PT
|
JLP, looks like your head is messed up, confusing being direct vs being rude + twisting facts.
After JLP posts I feel my jokes up the tread kind of inappropriate [ despite I still think they are funny]
|
|
shylock
Social climber
mb
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 03:25pm PT
|
really a fascinating discussion. Personally, I think a collaboration with Erik (that Erik) would have been super beneficial for everyone. Cant deny that he gets sh#t done, is able to come up with a a good bit of original topos, and can convince people to let him use their awesome photos. Not too late to team up I guess..
Eff it, let him do the bouldering guide too
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 03:34pm PT
|
That's my point - the list of stake holders and contributors and FA's in Reid's last publication is a mile long and tells frankly the most important story of climbing of any book ever published for the Valley - it's bigger than anyone and owned by everyone - and now it's all fallen into the hands of incompetent twits who know zero about how to get anything done at all much less how to get a guidebook published. The complete and utter lack of any accountability on top of that definitely rubs me the wrong way.
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 08:23pm PT
|
important place for information to be passed along to the community, for those who feel it is important. That's an odd thing to post given the reality. Reid in the past was the trusted book keeper of routes in the Valley. You guys were asked but refused to share this information - seeing as it's obvious it wasn't going to be published anytime soon - about public lands - choosing instead to leverage it for your own position and ego. Now a generation or two will miss it. Erik has been busy gathering on his own - how much are you now copying?
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
|
Feb 28, 2019 - 08:35pm PT
|
^^^ has the answer not become incredibly clear and obvious to you at this point?
|
|
the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
As I've probably posted on previous threads I don't think the application of 13th century technology (printed books) is the best way to transfer this knowledge.
Especially for a project of this magnitude a book(s) is the wrong medium IMO.
There is so much info the cost/size of a book will be prohibitive. A series of books will probably be even more expensive. No one wants to lug a 5 pound book on a climb to have the topo. As soon as it's printed it's out of date. You have to do all the work yourselves and can't leverage the community.
SuperTopo was a step in the right direction with pdfs so you can print out the page of the climb you want to do.
Mountain Project is good with the ability to crowd source to add and update routes.
I've used some smart phone apps, but they have just been okay.
I think a combination of multiple approaches may be the best for this project.
The app portion would probably be the best way to monetize the effort. e.g. $0.99 to $2.99 for the app. PDFs are great but too easy to be shared for free. Websites are great for community updates, adding routes, etc. but tough to monetize (I don't imagine advertising would bring in much revenue for a project of this limited demographic appeal).
So you'd have website, like Mountain Project / SuperTopo where people could add routes, updates, photos. People could drill down to a single route in the database and print one topo, etc. for free. Hopefully there'd be enough advertising revenue to pay for the hosting.
You'd have an app with all the routes in it. Maybe the ability to export a single topo at a time to pdf to print. Charge $1-3 for the app so everyone will be willing to buy it, cost won't be a factor for who buys it, but thousands of people buying it could generate some revenue. Maybe a subscription for updates. That is the way to bring in the most money. I know there's expenses to develop and even get listed on the app store, but there's also printing costs for a book.
Maybe also have the giant book, for more of a coffee table / picnic table in the campground reading.
The nice thing about a website is you could get the info out quickly / now, without worrying about if everything is ready. People would understand it's a work in progress.
Just some ideas. I'm glad you guys are undertaking this project and understand it's a lot of work and a labor of love.
Edit to add: maybe recruit a young tech saavy climber to drive the tech portion. Maybe don't have the website and worry about hosting. Just have the app. Have the app really cheap like $0.99 so everyone is willing to buy it, but you get some revenue, but have in app purchases: print, updates, no ads, etc. You could also have users easily add beta, photos, through the app.
Or maybe have the app free for a limited number of select climbs, and in app purchases for different crags, etc. I'm a believer is getting the app out for free/really cheap so people try it, if it proves valuable then I'm willing to do in app purchases to add functionality/content. If an app is easy to use people will add tons of photos/beta because it will be so easy. e.g. If you are at the start of the route and in the app looking at the topo anyway and notice there's no photo of the start of the route, then hit "add photo" and bam a photo tied to that location is right there.
|
|
Peter
Trad climber
San Francisco
|
|
"The topos are all drawn. They have been done for over a year and a half. All of the estimated 3,500 something routes have been redrawn and corrected.
The written description are about half done.
The overlays still need to be done onto photos.
Much of the cliff pictures have already been taken. Some still need to be done."
Is there any way we can see some of these 3,500 tops so we can just start climbing? More than happy to pay for the privilege and maybe that will help fund the project.
I appreciate all the effort, but it seems like it's still going to be years and years until the results are published.
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
You'd have an app with all the routes in it. Good luck with that. The MP.com app is about a decade out of more than 1 full time modern software engineer. Every OS change out of Android and Apple has driven changes, maintenance and updates. It's way more complicated than Fortran from the 50's in some government funded lab.
UnAble reads like the idea guy - shows up with a pile of scratch and napkins detailing out the most obscure choss ever repeated in the Valley. Ed sounds like he's 14 years into Ch 1 of Adobe Illustrator for Dummies. Clint sounds like he said fuk this and ran. Turn all that into a modern app? Yeah, right.
What has been accomplished? Focusing in on the facts presented in their posts - it sounds they've dik'd around with Reid's 2005 topos for the past 14 years - adding very little beyond pile upon pile of easy bottom-end choss.
IMO, get on Amazon and find an old copy of Reid, if you really want this stuff. Otherwise, IMO, Erik's guide is state of the art and will eventually grow into the only available comprehensive guide.
|
|
Matt's
climber
|
|
There seems to be a lot of misconceptions here
1) I don't think this guidebook is a commercial endeavor, so thinking of it from that perspective is not useful.
2) Yosemite is huge. A relatively low percent of the routes drawn in the Reid/Sloan guides are accurate. It is easy to draw a line on a piece of paper-- it's 10-100 times harder to ensure that each line drawn is actually accurate. This effort needs to be scaled across thousands of climbs on many different formations.
|
|
Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
Erik's guide is state of the art JLP, How much Sloan pay to you for being his press secretary?
|
|
JLP
Social climber
The internet
|
|
So I'm looking on Amazon and I see Reid's guides selling used starting at $1.51 - Big Walls and Free Climbs separate. Lots of supply.
The 1987 "Combined" guide that has all the obscurities still there, including the Falls climbs, is selling for a whopping $35.
Seeing as these guys are looking for people to provide input on the harder free routes - and there's no way in heck they're going to come even close to the detail and accuracy Erik is able to provide on the big walls...
I have no idea what people are waiting for from these guys.
Other than easy obscure choss, and the exact location thereof.
A line on the page, rack says "nuts to 3 inch" - what else do you need?
|
|
shylock
Social climber
mb
|
|
Although always rude, jlp always has a point, and I agree with him here. Reid’s guide was instrumental in my valley climbing. No it wasn’t always exactly accurate, but how boring it would have been to only have the st book.
Sloan’s book is beautiful, no doubt, and he has managed to get some new (recently put up or and/or just not in any previous guide) stuff in it. Definitely can’t conpete with his big wall info, putting aside how much of that was maybe not his work.
I do know there’s more than just choss out there that we don’t know about. I’d love to see it. Well even the choss too. But there’s still plenty in the Reid guide to do so whatever... Erik gives us pretty photos so I guess I’m not sure what else I want...
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
None of you complainers here even climb.
What do you need a guide book for?
|
|
tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
|
|
This ain't no Jesus on toast pareidolia. The 200+ page Lower Merced Canyon chapter of the Comprehensive Yosemite Valley Guidebook is contained in the black binder on the table. Photo taken during lunch today.
|
|
NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
|
|
I am fully faithful! I have fond memories of Reed's turn-out random encounters, seeing old friends, and new route suggestions purveyed therefrom. I'm going to dig getting lost in this tome / these tomes.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 74 of total 74 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!