europe / alps climbing question

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Messages 1 - 13 of total 13 in this topic
nopantsben

climber
europe
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 11, 2016 - 07:15am PT
I am driving from Innsbruck to Bordeaux and would like to do that in two sections, with climbing in between. The idea would be to sleep and climb somewhere on the way (little detour is no problem), ideally multipitch, but good cragging works as well. Grade-wise something between 5c and 7a would be ideal, gear can be whatever. I was thinking the geneva region might have something to offer. I am sort of short on guidebooks for this region, so I'm asking here. I leave Ibk on wednesday night, and need to be in bordeaux on friday evening.

Maybe someone here has an idea? I'd appreciate it:-) thanks!!

edit: my car's an old postal service car, not the fast type...
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 11, 2016 - 07:38am PT
Sheesh, this is an hour from Innsbruck!

Lamsenspitze

You could drop straight down the A22 and be in the Dolomites. Straight shot across to
Bordeaux from there with a stop at Verdon. What more could you want? :-)
nopantsben

climber
europe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2016 - 08:07am PT
The dolomites are too close ;-)

I'd rather get 6-ish hours of the drive done before climbing... (plus, the dolomites would add a solid 3-4 hours to the drive, I think)

but thanks!
-b
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 11, 2016 - 08:12am PT
OK, but I say you'll make better time going down the A22 and across N Italy and you'd have to
consciously try to avoid Verdon, and I wouldn't want that on my conscience.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Jul 11, 2016 - 08:19am PT
If you are ok to add 3-4 hours to your drive by taking the southern route through Milano, you can pass right by Val d'Aosta and Chamonix. Maybe go for Cervino (Matterhorn) or Monta Rosa or Monte Bianco (Mont Blanc).


More cragging stuff near Aosta rather than big peaks:
http://www.summitpost.org/corma-di-machaby/287158

This is the right difficulty range and right distance (a little less than halfway) in your drive. Plus you get some cultural diversity added to your trip.

No topos or specific route grades on that link, but a picture to guide you from there:
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Jul 11, 2016 - 09:59am PT
You're probably going to be driving by Lac Leman. Close by to the E is Miroir d'Argentine, a BIG slab, which is tremendously fun, and quick to climb. The approach is short, and the walk down is nice. Wild camping near the parking is discouraged. We managed to do it about 15 years ago, not sure if it's still possible now.

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/le-miroir-dargentine/107646478

This photo shows the line of the easiest route, which is a lot of fun, but pretty easy. Good for simul climbing.
http://s.camptocamp.org/uploads/images/1282901680_1404031707BI.jpg

nopantsben

climber
europe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2016 - 07:17am PT
thanks for the suggestions. the mirroir sounds like a pretty good idea. we'll see!
-b
Fishy

climber
Zurich, Switzerland
Jul 12, 2016 - 07:43am PT
If you need to be in Bordeaux only 48 hours after leaving Innsbruck, then time will be a bit tight.

You will probably need something with a quick and easy approach, to give you more climbing time.

Best range of options along your route will be in the region between Martigny and Chamonix - there are quite a few roadside crags to choose from.

A nice overview map of the region can be found here:

http://www.filidor.ch/pages/book.aspx?Id=10

There are some links to pictures of the areas, and a bit of topo info. If you find an area you like, doing a broader internet search for that specific place will probably turn up more specific route info.

To get to Martigny, it is simply a question of taking the "Vevy/Montrex" highway when you get to Bern (instead of the highway to Lausanne).

Good luck!

Pete.
Flip Flop

climber
Earth Planet, Universe
Jul 12, 2016 - 08:04am PT
Fair Hands Line near Grimsel Pass

Ian Parsons

climber
UK, England
Jul 12, 2016 - 08:33am PT
If you can get hold of a topo/guidebook this is probably the best of the areas that Fishy suggests, overlooking the Swiss/French border at Chatelard.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=1951#overview
nopantsben

climber
europe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2016 - 01:42pm PT
thanks guys, you hit the nail on the head with your suggestion of chatelard. never heard of it and it looks perfect.
cheers!
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Jul 12, 2016 - 02:04pm PT
Going to Bordeaux via Chatelard seems like the slowest most roundabout way
possible. NTTAWWT but I thought you were on a schedule? :-)
Besides, you'll hook up with some locals there who will entice you into a
night of expensive debauchery in Cham and next thing we know you'll be
going gofundme on us!
nopantsben

climber
europe
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2016 - 10:02am PT

we ended up doing this: half hour detour, nice place to sleep nearby, short drive to brdx from there.

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