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Yosoymilk
Big Wall climber
Mount Vernon, Washington
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 1, 2016 - 11:40am PT
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Hi! Long time topo lurker. Looking for some beta on circlehead placement. I'm from Washington where aid climbing is pretty much dead. Im fairly confident in most situations up to C3 but have never nailed anything. Recently I found an overhanging seam that has never seen an ascent. The seam is SMALL and dead horizontal (maybe a 1/4th or 1/8th inch at its largest.) I have an assortment of LA's KB's and sliders that i plan to use but i wanted to try out some circleheads on this thing. I've read all the article's on heading (thanks PTPP!) but I haven't found in information pertaining to strictly cicleheads. Can circleheads be used in strait in, horizontal roofs? If so, do you place them differently than regular heads? Im gunnnna dieee!!!!
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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You might want to shoot duece4 or Russ Walling a PM.
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Yosoymilk
Mountain climber
Mount Vernon, Washington
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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Thanks for the connect!
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dikhed
climber
State of fugue and disbelief
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Don't develop titties from too much soy milk
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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question is legit
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Sure. Straight up circleheads - give 'em a try.
The other thing you can try is big peckers - #2 or #3. But you need to tie a piece of webbing through the hole in the top.
The purpose of the webbing is threefold:
 1) Great for racking - make sure the pointy parts always point outwards away from you
2) Great for cleaning - pull from the top
3) Great for clipping in horizontals. Counterintuitive perhaps, but give it a try. Instead of driving a KB straight up, you drive the big pecker in kind of 45 degrees up and to one side. Hint: drive the point from the wider part to the thinner part of the crack.
Then you clip into the sling - instead of the tail - of the pecker, and the placement is remarkably secure.
Try the pecker first, but if it doesn't work, try the circlehead.
Place the livin' bejeepers out of it using a flat-tipped punch until it's welder, man.....
Cheers, eh?
And like, Happy Canada Day.
P.S. Everything is the same as far as placing the head, in terms of pre-forming it to the shape of the crack and so on. I'm assuming you've found my post on Mountain Project?
Maybe you could post the link here so others can find it who might not yet have seen it...
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Yosoymilk
Mountain climber
Mount Vernon, Washington
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 1, 2016 - 10:03pm PT
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Hey thanks a bunch Pete, those are the ninja tips i was looking for. I actually posted the same post in your heading thread over at MP, you answered me here first though. I just thought this thread my die out before anyone would see it. Thanks again, for the thorough advice and entertainment! Cheers!! eh!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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pete, how does one usually clean pins? hammer them up? I haven't nailed
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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You need a steel cable about 18" long [inelastic] that has loops swaged on each end - called a funkness device. You need two dedicated "beater" carabiners that go on each end, and are used for no other purpose.
One end of the funkness goes through the hole in the head in your hammer. The other end connects to the pin.
Be gentle, be careful - a good hard funk can easily generate more than 2000 lbs of force.
For arrows and angles, you sort of funk outwards and down at 45 degrees, then upwards and up at 45 degrees. You'll feel the pin start to give, then once it does you can funk straight out. Be very careful not to hit yourself in the face!
Peckers require a lot more finesse. The steel cable on BD Peckers is probably only good for a little over a thousand pounds, and that's when brand new. After the cable gets bashed a bit it's incredibly weak. If you funk that cable without care, you will break it. It is a huge design flaw with BD Peckers, which STILL hasn't been corrected! They need a beefy cable like Moses Theron uses.
You also have to put the sling through the top hole on your peckers, so that you can funk outwards in the same direction as the blade. But before you do, you have to tap gently on the base to lever it inwards and outwards so that it begins to move.
I hardly place any angles or arrows these days, almost always it's a Pecker, which is far less invasive and much easier on the rock. Peckers ever work in the bottom of little holes that formerly would only accomodate sawed-off angles.
Peckers are hugely more solid [except for their crappy weak cable] and secure than arrows in almost every placement, but they are also much harder to clean. This takes practice and patience.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Peckers are used for pro (i.e. to hold falls)? I thought they were mainly used for upward movement (like hooks) without any real security in case of a fall
I guess you pound them in pretty good
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