It takes balls to use nuts...

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Messages 381 - 400 of total 447 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 1, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
And another...
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Jul 1, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
I found this little baby on Iron Hawk in a pile of debris on top of the 21st pitch where I camped in the rain.

it really gave me a connection to maybe the first ascent, since I knew those guys and this was a piece of equipment that we all used.

Credit: Mark Hudon

Credit: Mark Hudon

Credit: Mark Hudon
Francesca Drake

Trad climber
California,Truckee
Jul 1, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
Just saying ;D
Just saying ;D
Credit: Francesca Drake
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 14, 2012 - 11:53pm PT
I just picked up a couple of Gendarme Nuts including a hex. Does anyone know how many of the hex shape were produced as this is the first one that I have come across.



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2012 - 10:57am PT
Nutstory Bump...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 10, 2012 - 11:01am PT
Document the stories now! They're getting old and fading in most people's memories.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Sep 10, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
"Old and fading" like the webbing on the Iron Hawk momento.

Seriously, Grosseman, can't you find anything better to do than faff around trying to place a cam in the dark? Facetiously, I meant facetiously, not seriously.

Great story, good bump. Combine this thread with others like my Hexcentric Life thread (other suggestions appreciated, folks) and we are all weaving the fabric of this sport's history.

nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Sep 26, 2012 - 10:19am PT
I am sorry Steve, two times sorry… There is not any Gendarme hex in the Nuts Museum and… I have never heard about these beautiful chocks… I thought that I knew all about the Gendarme Nuts. For sure the Nuts Story is a never ending quest…
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 4, 2012 - 11:25am PT
Yes but we are hot on their trail...
perswig

climber
Oct 4, 2012 - 02:42pm PT


Dale
Ron Anderson

Trad climber
USA Moundhouse Nev. and land o da SLEDS!
Oct 4, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
an interesting nut history article

http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/nutsmuseum/nutsstory.htm
Topper Wilson

Trad climber
Pueblo, CO
Oct 4, 2012 - 03:51pm PT
Steve G,

Gendarme nuts likely came from the climbing store "The Gendarme" at Seneca Rocks, W.VA. I believe John Markwell had a series of hexes and stoppers made in the mid to late 70's. I think they were made from aircraft aliminum, but I don't think many were sold. Chouinard made stoppers that had a more approriate angle (not as steep) and when the Hexentrics came out with a design that allowed for better camming, John may have just let his line go. Though John retired a few years ago, I'm sure you can reach him through the Seneca Rocks Climbing School; he loves to talk.

Topper
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 5, 2012 - 09:26pm PT
Bump!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 5, 2012 - 09:53pm PT
Topper- thanks for weighing in about the Gendarme Nuts. Try to get the man himself to post on this thread as I would love to hear his story. Hard to compete with the Chouinard extrusions and more granite friendly Stopper taper but the drive to actually make and sell nuts was very rare and special.

I would really like to connect with John so that I can put together a complete set of Gendarme nuts for the Oakdale Climbers Festival 2014 where I would like to lay the evolution of nuts on display for all to appreciate as I did for the various piton makers this year. The history of when and why completes the nutstory as my Corsican friend like to say.
Plaidman

Trad climber
South Slope of Mt. Tabor, Portland, Oregon, USA
Nov 5, 2012 - 09:59pm PT
There is nothing better than a great nut placement!
Am I nuts?
Splater

climber
Grey Matter
Nov 5, 2012 - 10:26pm PT
this little route at Red Rock takes only nuts. I used doubles of many. http://www.mountainproject.com/v/panty-raid/105732941
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 5, 2012 - 11:29pm PT
It takes balls to use a micronut at the crux of a traditionally protected 13b/c!!!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 10, 2012 - 04:23pm PT
Nice shot!

What no Screamer on the wire?!?
Big Mike

Trad climber
BC
Nov 10, 2012 - 05:06pm PT
Those darn boulderers don't need no stinking screamers!!! This is Ben H same guy who just sent dream catcher
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 21, 2013 - 02:44pm PT
Kids these days, they just don't value a runout! LOL
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