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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Jun 15, 2016 - 09:59am PT
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This is great--all that suffering and all the epics have made me thirsty--I'm going to have to get out of the arm chair and and have a beer.
Avery-people might give you the piss and moan but the threads you've posted up have been my favorite thing on this site since the 900 pages of how the Stonemasters were born
Thanks
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Moloch
Ice climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Oct 4, 2017, Alik Berg, Maarten van Haeren. I believe we were the only party up that fall, but worth noting that the route saw at least 5 more ascents this spring (2018).
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Nice to see gym climbers getting out!
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 1, 2018 - 06:41pm PT
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Thanks Moloch, for adding your excellent pics to this thread.
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Avery
climber
New Zealand
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 22, 2019 - 02:14pm PT
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Mt Kitchener, Grand Central Couloir: SOLO.
Chris Brazeau
Memories are hazy but I do recall a friend returning from the Icefields Parkway and exclaiming over a beer “Man, the GCC is looking blue through and through!” That was the only impetus needed and a couple days later I drove up to ‘have a look.’ Unfortunately Mt Kitchener had donned her summit cloud to hide the exit pitches but the rest of the line was indeed blue (and white) so I began hiking. The potent combo of youth, naivete and confidence had me hiking light – no rope or harness, a sleeping bag but no tent or bivy bag. An umbrella seemed like a good idea so that came along with the tools and crampons. The approach was uneventful and I bivied at the base still without a view of the entire route.
My alarm was set for 1a.m. but I was wakened just before by a slight drizzle. Dang. The clouds had sunk and I was enveloped by a slight mist. Thermometer read 1 degree C. I curled up in a ball underneath my umbrella and actually got some sleep, my mind somewhat eased that it wasn’t meant to be.
But 4:20 came, the haze lifted and the temp dropped to -3 C. Dang!! Soon I was crossing the bergschrund and kicking steps up the gulley in perfect snow, up to the crux. The ice variation to the right of the corner was indeed still there, though delaminating in places. This with some spindrift kept me present through the crux and my mind off what I could now see would be the next challenge – the massive cornice overhanging the route and guarding the exit. Ignorance is bliss I suppose and an hour or so of swinging and hacking with the tools granted me passage to the other side. The summit clouds had parted and I lingered, taking in the summit views. There was a moment on the descent where I regretted not bringing a harness and a bit of cord but a with a bit of patience and some deep breaths I was soon back at the bivy, then skipping out to the hwy.
Thanks to Chris Brazeau
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nah000
climber
now/here
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Jan 23, 2019 - 11:29am PT
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now that is a bananas story... thanks for getting people to tell some of their stories Avery...
favourite part is that he took a foookin umbrella with him... still laughing out loud at that one...
and can’t even imagine walking up to a line like that with no harness or rope/cord.
and so thanks to brazeau for spillin some goods.
given his history in the rotties and columbias it’s too bad that, afaik, most of his stories are still oral ones...
although there’s a fitting beauty in that as well.
so for the time being: fUck me is that a wild tale.
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Michael Browder
Mountain climber
Chamonix, France (Oregon originally)
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Jan 23, 2019 - 11:41am PT
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Grand Central Couloir--another highly overrated climb--even BITD. Like the North Face of North Twin.
Yeah, yeah, lets hear it.
I'm ready.
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nah000
climber
now/here
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Jan 23, 2019 - 11:49am PT
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^^^^
let’s hear some good shIt talking then... “overrated” how?
climbing is ugly on giant piles of choss?
they are easy compared to their reputations?
you climbed either/both but were so bored you almost quit climbing?
ie. come on... don’t just be a tease. it’ll be way more fun if you actually whip your pants down and drop a good sized deuce... prob make you feel better too.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 23, 2019 - 04:16pm PT
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Has anybody ever repeated Kelloggs (the rock route on NF Kitchener)?
If yes, was it before or after their lobotomy?
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jan 23, 2019 - 06:03pm PT
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Two local stories
Jeff and Glenn are going for a 1 day ascent of the GCC in late September. It is totally dark by the time Jeff was leading the cornice pitch. Jeff is a ways up , Glenn looks up and sees a light coming towards him like a train. Jeff ends up doing a 70 ft factor 2 fall. The belay rips except for Glenn's ice tools. They bivy until dawn and find a better way up.
Joe solos the GCC a few years later and takes a similar fall to Jeff's in the same area. Luckily his systems worked.
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