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asioux
Trad climber
Rancho Cucamonga
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 24, 2016 - 10:19am PT
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Is it possible to Rappel with one 70 meter rope? I've read a few comments on it. I'd like clarification from the 3rd pitch rap down to the ground. I've read the topo. I've read Some comments saying one 70m rope will get you down. I would much rather not bring up 2 60m. Thank you, I appreciate serious information. A.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 24, 2016 - 10:29am PT
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I use a 6mm static tag line to rap routes....super light
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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May 24, 2016 - 11:04am PT
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so Jim - you take a 60m, 6mm line that you use with your climbing rope for 60m raps?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 24, 2016 - 11:20am PT
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Yep...actually since the rope is static it's 65 meters to allow for stretch in the dynamic lead line.
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Alpamayo
Trad climber
Davis, CA
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May 24, 2016 - 11:28am PT
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If it's only the last rap to the ground that you're worried about, leave the extra rope at the base/car. Have the first person down rap a single line. If they're past the half mark, you'll need to have them tie the 2nd rope on and pull it up. If the rap is shorter than the half mark, have the 2nd person just pull the rope up and rap on one rope.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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May 24, 2016 - 11:38am PT
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^^^ good beta
Never did the route with a 70M, but it sure can be a cluster up there some days!
I think the advantage of a 60M plus tag line, is it gets you off the route and out of the traffic faster.
Have fun out there - great intro into 5.9 - just a few will protected 5.9 moves...
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asioux
Trad climber
Rancho Cucamonga
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2016 - 12:42pm PT
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Thank you Ed...Ive climbed many routes in the Valley, but never Superslide. Im heading up soon to climb. Im hoping to jump on Entrance Exam also (if not closed, due to peregrine) then return in September to climb Steck Salathe.
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Highlife
Trad climber
California
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May 24, 2016 - 01:06pm PT
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Yes, you can rap the route with a single 70. Done it multiple times.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 24, 2016 - 01:09pm PT
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Yes, it can be rappeled with a single 70m rope.
-From the top of the route, do three 110' rappel's to the main traverse ledge.
-Walk to the right and sling one of the oak trees, not the one at the top of the second pitch, but the one just left of it. (The rope tends to hang up if you use the other one). Rappel to the main ledge at the top of the first pitch.
 Walk out on the ledge (toward the parking area) and look for a set of bolts under the bush close to the edge(kind of hidden, can sling the bush if necessary). Rappel strait down and a little left, to another set of bolts about 70' down.
Make one more short rappel to the ground. This will land you about a hundred feet down hill from where you started the route.
There are a few new routes that head up to the anchors on the last rappel. L to R, 5.8 crack, 5.11 (bolted), 5.10a. crack with two bolts. They all lead to the main ledge.
Eric Gabel
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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May 24, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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This thread needs pics...
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asioux
Trad climber
Rancho Cucamonga
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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Thanks for the info Highlife and Ablegabel. That answers my question about the 70m rope rappel. Cheers A...
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asioux
Trad climber
Rancho Cucamonga
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Topic Author's Reply - May 24, 2016 - 01:33pm PT
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Thnx for posting some photos Ed. Looks nice.
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MikeL
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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May 24, 2016 - 05:38pm PT
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Looks fun, Moosie! J
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 24, 2016 - 06:19pm PT
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Knot the ends of your rappel rope.
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asioux
Trad climber
Rancho Cucamonga
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2016 - 05:48pm PT
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Thnx for the info. Cool photo Moose. Yes knot the end of the rope, plus a prusik.
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Ed H
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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May 25, 2016 - 08:50pm PT
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At the top of P2, I find it helpful to traverse across the ledge, and build an anchor right were Moose is in his photo. Takes a #4 plus a small piece high and left. That way the leader can link P3 and P4 with a straight shot.
Clean, fun, route and walking distance from Pines campground. When you getting on it?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 25, 2016 - 11:31pm PT
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I believe there are two new routes to the right (climber's right) of the start of Superslide, and that you can scramble down to those anchors... from the top of the 1st belay on Superslide.
This makes it possible to rap to the ground using a single 70m rope. I recall a single 80m gets you down independent of the raps chosen.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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May 26, 2016 - 01:12am PT
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That looks like a nice climb. Never noticed it or heard about it during my time in CA.
By the way, I was perusing Mountain Project to check out the climb, and I wandered off to look at climbs in the area. I'm trying to remember if I did Firefingers. The first pitch of Firefingers allows pro using thin gear, like HB offsets?
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asioux
Trad climber
Rancho Cucamonga
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2016 - 10:23am PT
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I will be there this week Ed H. Looking forward to the Valley. Looks like we missed the rain. Last year this time I was there to climb the Nose and we had to wait out 3 days of poor weather before we blasted off. This trip we're just Multipitch and crag climbing. Hoping to make it to the Reeds and if Arch is open climb the Entrance Exam! Ed Hartouni I believe I meet you 2 years ago at the Reeds. We talked about Peter Pan on El Cap.
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