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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2016 - 05:41pm PT
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For me, it was definitely "Mines of Moria" in the Lower Gorge of Smith Rock - the recommended rack includes a headlamp:
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/mines-of-moria/107118805
The other crazy one was last year at Tai's new Pine Creek area the "SuperFun Site". This 5.10 he put up starts with a chimney, the transitions through a horizontal wiggle through a detached flake in a roof. At the end of the wiggle, you pull yourself out of the slot on good holds with a lot of exposure.
What are yours?
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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May 18, 2016 - 06:09pm PT
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Mr E, there's a climb at Jtree that is very much like what you describe... It's in a popular area... maybe northwest side of Echo Cove? To get off the ground, you are doing hand/fist stacks and knee jams. Then a horizontal squeeze chimney that slowly spits you out while you face straight down to the ground.
Besides that... my weirdest: chainlink security fencing surrounding the balconies 3-4 flights up a hotel next to a police station in the Soviet Union, after curfew.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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May 18, 2016 - 06:20pm PT
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Odyssey of an Artichoke on Cannon Mountain in New Hampshire. The 5.10 stuff was no problem. I almost called for a rescue on the final pitch rated 5.6. I couldn't get on top of the damn flake with a helmet on and the gear was 10 feet below on a slab. Weirdness.
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Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
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May 18, 2016 - 06:39pm PT
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"The Tunnel" at Skytop in the Gunks is a bit like that. It goes up about 50 feet, then sideways about 100 feet (through a tunnel) then goes up another 80 or-so feet.
Curt
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 18, 2016 - 06:46pm PT
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Mousetrap at Anglesey, no contest. It's like Salvador Dali created the rock.
I've posted picks here of it before but I'm too knackered to look them up.
Besides, my oysters are trying to escape and that's just knott gonna happen
on my watch.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 18, 2016 - 06:47pm PT
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I did the FA of Siberian Swarm Scew...the only weird thing I remember was Bev Johnson puking at the crux with others still to follow. We did call it SWARM screw
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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May 18, 2016 - 08:11pm PT
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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May 18, 2016 - 08:18pm PT
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The one that used to go up the middle of this tunnel entrance...
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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May 18, 2016 - 08:25pm PT
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I was climbing at a granite dome on the S. Fork Clearwater, 150 miles from my home in Moscow Idaho, when Mt. St. Helens exploded in 1980.
We didn't know anything had happened until we stopped to buy some beer about 60 miles from home.
The last 30 miles to Moscow was: grey-ash snow and zero visibility when another car went by.
It was a very weird day.
Spring 1980 climbing on the South Fork Clearwater River in North Idaho.
There I was, 30 feet out from a #1 Chouinard wired stopper, on loose rock, with a bad case of rectal seepage. I needed to vomit from drinking too much the night before, a dear John letter was stuffed in my back pocket, and from the bottom of the cliff, my near-sighted three-legged cat, Ralph, was yowling incessantly at a rock it mistook for a cougar. The ash from erupting Mt St Helens started falling thickly. It blotted out the sun, like a grey snowstorm. Ashfall had already covered smaller ledges & was sluffing off the slabs above us like spindrift...
Then I saw the tornado.
It was clearly heading our way.
About that time: an old Ford pickup skidded to a stop at the base of the obscure Idaho cliff we were climbing. As I looked down, two locals in camo jumped out, and I heard one scream: Gol-durn rock-climbers-----shoot em!
Just when I thought: this is the end!
The Volcano-related earthquake started shaking the livers out of us. A dump-truck sized boulder broke loose just above me, as I skidded back down to just below my belayer, and I enjoyed a soft catch. The boulder missed us by 5 feet, but squashed the two shooters.
We called it a day, rapped off the route, rounded up Ralph, broke out the left-over beers, and drove through 120 miles of light, fluffy volcanic ash back to scenic Moscow, Idaho. The last 30 miles to Moscow was: grey-ash snow and zero visibility when another car went by. It was a lot like driving through fine cold powder snow.
The next morning, I looked out my window at 6 inches of white volcanic ash, and said: Oh fuk----it didn't melt!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 18, 2016 - 08:48pm PT
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Edge, the thread is about weird, not perverted.
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Edge
Trad climber
Betwixt and Between Nederland & Boulder, CO
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May 18, 2016 - 09:16pm PT
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But Reilly, the line was Divinely inspired!
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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May 18, 2016 - 09:24pm PT
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PhilG, those are RIDICULOUS! I thought they were like tufa pinches when I first scrolled past. Then I looked again and saw the climber. I'm still in shock.
Do you mind sharing a location?
My humble contribution:
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MisterE
Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2016 - 09:44pm PT
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Nice contributions, everyone!
PhilG - also blown away by the scale on that first shot...
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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May 20, 2016 - 11:41am PT
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The north face of Teewinot, with its tunnel to the other side near the top. 1956 or 57.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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May 20, 2016 - 12:03pm PT
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Thanks Reilly. Part of me really wants to go, but then again, British climbing? I've heard what they're like over there...
;p
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 20, 2016 - 12:24pm PT
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Impeachable Groping in Red Rocks has a 30ft tree climb to start the route.
Stem to the first bolt from the tree.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!