How To Make A #2 Copperhead - And Everything Else...

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Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 2, 2004 - 02:32am PT
*As seen on rockclimbing.communist and on the cover of the National Crag-Admirer...*

Copperhead goes nutzo as snow flies horizontally past his reclusive hideout. It’s time to type, he says, and type he did… BUUUURRRRPPPP!!!!! …Alright… Get to the point…!!! What’s all this about, anyways…?

Crazy-aider crazy-aider crazy-aider here we go…

=




Have you ever wondered how to make your own heads? Are you tired of paying $2.00 for something that could cost you 15 cents? Well, fear not; the information in this post will help you to become a swaging fiend. I borrowed some of this text from one of my posts from several months ago. Others prefer a slightly different method/sequence but this is what works for me.
Check out the old thread for details:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=23169&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=0


Thanks to Bigwalling for asking me to post some pictures.
Apologies for the quality of the pictures – my digital camera is a POS freebie.

So, here goes:



Swaging:

Welcome to Copperhead’s copperhead manufacturing plant, home of the Techno Geek.


Photo #1:
This is the swager. It is a Nicopress model 510 bench mount with a model 64-CGMP jaw. It is mounted on a slab of oak that is 2” by 10” by 30” making it portable. It can be clamped to a workbench or a picnic table, or can be used on the floor/ground. I made a small device that is mounted on the right side of the slab that is used for pulling a bend of cable tight in a sleeve. The device is made out of a piece of right-angle steel, 3” long with three counter-sunk holes in the base plate (to mount it to the oak slab). It also has a 3/4” dia. hole with a 1/4” wide slot extending to the left side of the hole, in the top plate. I have marked off a scale of inches on the front with a Sharpie for measuring cable. This setup has worked quite well for me for the past 9+ years.



Photo #2:
This is the whole setup. In addition to the swager, you will need pliers, cable cutters, and swaging supplies (cable and sleeves). For specific information on cable cutters, cable, and sleeves, see “Tools and Materials” below.



Photo #3 and #4:
The first step is to pull several feet of cable off of the spool (don’t cut it) and thread the end of the cable through both holes in a sleeve such that it forms a small loop. Place the cable (and un-swaged sleeve) into the slot in the ‘special device’ or whatever device you can come up with – I used to use the side of the jaws but over time, it will tweak the swager. Position the side of the sleeve with the end of the cable against the surface of the device, grab onto the other end of the cable with pliers, and pull or yank on the cable. Be sure to be nice to the cable with the pliers (don’t damage the cable) and pull the cable until the end loop seats on the sleeve but does not slip into the sleeve. I have never had a problem with damaging cable and have never had a head fail (the head itself that is, not the placement…).

It is possible to swage the clip-in loop of the head first (other method) and use a biner to yank on the cable to seat the end loop (as just described) but I prefer to use the above method because if you screw up the yank part, you only have to pull the cable out of the sleeve, chop off an inch or two and start over, rather than waste a foot of cable and a sleeve.



Photo #5:
Place the un-swaged head into the appropriate slot in the jaws and make sure that the sleeve is centered – sleeves are usually a hair wider than the jaws (#1 and #2 sizes). The end of the cable should extend beyond the sleeve by about 1/16 of an inch. As the sleeve is crimped, it will become wider and cover the extra bit of cable. The cable should be flush with the edge of the sleeve after it’s been crimped. If the cable sticks out past the sleeve, it will catch on slings/webbing and poke your fingers; if the cable doesn’t extend all the way to the edge of the sleeve, then it won’t be full strength. Over time, you will get a feel for the right positioning.



Photo #6:
Measure the length of cable, including the swaged head. Length can vary, though you will lose reach with added length. A short head can always be extended with a supertape tie-off (loop it or girth-hitch it) to prevent a biner from being cross-loaded over an edge.


Photo #7:
Cut the cable. New cutters will make a clean cut and should last long enough to make several thousand heads (unless you are only making #4s). Retire worn-out cutters. If the cable does fray, twist it back together so that it will thread into a sleeve. See “Tools and Materials” below for specifics on cutters.



Photo #8:
The next step is to thread the cable through a second sleeve, leaving enough of a loop to easily clip. Make the loop big enough so that a bunch of heads slide easily on a biner when racked and such that two biners can just barely be clipped through the loop – this is for when you clip the head into the rope – you don’t want to un-clip your daisy and then clip the rope. Having both clipped during the transition ensures that you are always clipped to the head. Press down on the handle and crimp the sleeve.



Photo #9:
This is the finished head. Don’t it look purdy? I forgot to use a plated sleeve for the clip-in loop (see below). Oooops!

Oh well. Now go smash it!



Photo #10:
Be sure to use a swage gauge. This gauge will determine whether or not your swager is adjusted properly. If the head fits into the appropriate notch then it is good. Pretty simple, really. The literature that is included with a swager will instruct you on how to adjust the swager. If you are making a large quantity of heads and you know that your swager is adjusted properly, it is not necessary to check every head made – check one in every 10 or 20. I have seen some heads (#3 and #4) on the market in the past that appear to be lop-sided or crooked (i.e. the swaged sleeve is tweaked to one side instead of being straight). This occurs when the two main bolts on the jaws (see pictures) are not tight. Basically, the two sides of the jaws do not line up properly and it forces the sleeve to slightly rotate during the crimp. This should only be a problem if you are not nice to your swager or you swage a quadzillion heads. Swager adjustment is critical to producing high-quality heads and swager maintenance (oil and clean) will prolong the life of your swager. Replace worn-out parts when necessary.



The steps above describe how to make a #2 head but the same principles apply to all sizes. #1 heads are basically the same as a #2 but #3, #4, and #5 heads require three crimps on each sleeve as opposed to one (see image below, "FINISHED EYE SPLICE"). With the larger sizes, you will need to stick the end of the cable out from the sleeve a little more before swaging – maybe 1/8” for #4s. Aluminum sleeves will extend more than copper sleeves.

#5 heads are rarely used and are sometimes referred to as “cow heads.” Aluminum sleeves should be used for the ‘head’ of a #5 head. A special ‘X’ jaw can be substituted for the ‘CGMP’ jaw in your swager but really isn’t necessary. The ‘P’ size crimp will work, even though it looks a little funky. Fear not. Use #4 cable and a #4 sleeve for the clip-in loop and a #5 sleeve for the head. I don’t remember the last time I placed a #5 head. Unless you feel the need, don’t bother making any.

If you want to swage a bunch of gear, it is best to work efficiently. Instead of immediately swaging the clip-in loop on each head as shown in the pictured sequence above, put the un-finished head off to the side and repeat the process until you have a batch. Once you have swaged enough un-finished heads (depending on how many you want to make of that size), then you can swage the clip-in loops on all of the heads. This two-step process is more efficient than making them one at a time.


Double heads have more holding power than single heads, due to the greater surface area of contact between metal and rock, but are not used that often, especially in the larger sizes. A double #3 alumihead might be used at a belay or in the middle of a long string of junk with big whipper potential. A double #4 head is pretty much overkill and your arms will feel like they are ready to fall off by the time you finish placing one. Double #1s can be quite handy for super-thin seams – the ‘secret ticket.’ To make a double head, follow the same steps as you would for a single head except thread two sleeves instead of one (obviously…). The loop of cable doesn’t need to be as snug as it does for a single head because a small gap (1/16” or more depending on size of head) needs to be left between the two sleeves as the second sleeve is crimped. The gap is left so that the sleeves barely touch each other when crimped. If a gap is not left, the crimped sleeves will exert stress on the cable and weaken it; I have seen double heads break between the two sleeves because they were not made properly. To increase the strength of a double #1 head (and sometimes a #2), it is best to use the double-cable design. Follow the same steps as you would for making a rivet hanger (see below), except use a longer length of cable (+/-10” for #1; +/-11” for #2) and thread two loose sleeves before crimping the third sleeve that connects the two ends of the cable. Adjust the cable in the two loose sleeves such that the third crimped sleeve is properly located. Pull the loop of cable semi-tight and then crimp the two sleeves, starting with the end sleeve. Remember to leave a gap!! The ‘double double’ should look like a giant teardrop when finished.


Circleheads are used for horizontal placements and require a slightly different sequence to make. Unlike making regular heads, the cable should be pre-cut. Cut a batch of cable lengths before you begin to swage. (See table below for lengths – these are just general figures – you can make the lengths longer or shorter if you want to.) Thread one of the sleeves on the cable and leave it loose. Next, thread the second sleeve on the cable and then thread the other end of the cable, making a loop (or circle). Crimp the sleeve that secures the ends of the cable first. Then, swage the loose sleeve – keep the two sleeves about 1/3 of the loop circumference apart (or 120 degrees). The loose sleeve should be oriented such that the side of the sleeve that DOESN’T have the cable running through it is on the inside of the circle. This is important! Sometimes, I make #3 and #4 circleheads with only two crimps (equally spaced) on the loose sleeve instead of three crimps – this makes the crimped sleeve slightly larger but you can still make it smaller by continuing to paste it. #1 and #2 circleheads can be made with a double loop of cable so that the loose sleeve has two lengths of cable running through it. The two loops ‘float’ and it’s like a butterfly (or whatever) – when the circlehead is clipped, it acts as a single cable. A double head circlehead can also be made (see below).

Pre-cut cable lengths for single-cable circleheads:
#1 = 7 1/2”
#2 = 8”
#3 = 8 1/2” – 9”
#4 = 9 1/2” -10"
#5 = 10 1/2”


Rivet hangers are similar to circleheads in manufacturing process. Pre-cut the cable lengths (see chart below for cable lengths). Use an aluminum sleeve for the loose sleeve and a copper sleeve for joining the ends of the cable. Thread one end of the cable through both sides in the aluminum sleeve such that it forms a tight loop (not tight like a head) and the end of the cable sticks out about an inch. Join the two ends of the cable with a copper sleeve.

Pre-cut cable lengths for rivet hangers:
#1 = 7 1/2"
#2 = 7 1/2" – 8”
#3 = 8 1/2" - 9"
#4 = 9 1/2" - 10"


Cinch hangers are a little bit different than standard rivet hangers. Use copper sleeves – important!! Start with the cable on the spool and make a loop as you would for the clip-in loop of a head. Because of the way that cinch hangers work, you will need to crimp the remaining edge of the sleeve after the sleeve has been normally crimped, to keep it smooth. If little slivers of copper squish out from the sleeve (between the ‘teeth’ in the jaws) then you will need to rotate the sleeve and crimp the slivers smooth. A few quick half-crimps will usually work. This step is not for strength but to remove the edge of the sleeve that would otherwise be jammed against the adjacent cable during cinching. This edge could weaken the cable. Next, cut the cable. Lengths will vary, depending on how big you make the clip-in loops and cable size. For a #2 cinch hanger, 8” of cable from the edge of the sleeve should be about right. Make a few hangers and you’ll figure out what works; the cinch loop should open enough to fit over a 3/4" dia washer. See “Cable” notes below.

Note: if you are paranoid about strength of #1 and #2 heads, rivet hangers, etc., you can do three crimps on the clip-in-loop sleeve/connecting sleeve – one regular crimp and one quick crimp on each edge to make it smooth.


A Funkness Device, as we now call it (PC modification of the original Yosemite term…), is a length of #4 cable with a clip-in loop at either end and is used to clean pitons and heads (in conjunction with a hammer). They are easy to make – simply make a clip-in loop at either end using copper sleeves. I recommend using a length of clear vinyl tubing to make the Funkness deluxe. Thread the end of the cable through the tubing before making the second clip-in loop and be sure to keep everything snug (i.e. no gaps between tubing and crimped sleeve). When finished, the Funkness should be about 21” in length, though some may prefer shorter. To properly rig your Funkness Device, you will need two designated cleaner-biners; duct-tape the biners to the cable loops such that they do not rotate (i.e. tape the piss out of ‘em).


Rurps and Beaks can be re-cabled with #3 cable for added cable strength. I recommend a small loop instead of the standard rivet hanger style loop with a loose sleeve – save yourself a sleeve and gain a little more reach. Stainless cable can be used for Rurps and Beaks and is a good idea if the pieces are to become fixed. See cable notes below for specifics on stainless cable. Beaks will need to be re-drilled and chamfered to accommodate #3 cable; Rurps and Peckers do not.


Another bonus of owning a swager is the fact that you can put cable wrist-loops on chisels and hand-drills. You can also put leashes on tuning forks. Use 7x7 #2 cable (see “Cable” below). For chisels and hand-drills, thread the end of cable (on the spool) through a sleeve as you would to make a clip-in loop. Place the loop around the chisel/drill groove, adjust the cable, and crimp. After crimping the sleeve, grab it with the pliers (with chisel/drill attached) such that the long axis of the sleeve is vertical, place the end of the loop against the swager board, and press down. This will spread the cables at the sleeve and make the loop round. If the cable still sticks to the chisel/drill then you have made the loop too tight; if the loop is big enough such that you may lose the chisel/drill when the cable stretches, then you have made the loop too big. You will figure it out after a few tries. As far as cable lengths, I use clear vinyl tubing on the cable - an 11” piece for the wrist loop and a 5” piece for the section of cable in between. As with the Funkness, keep the tubing and sleeves snug and cut the cable to the appropriate length; I usually cut it a bit long and then cut off the extra when everything is assembled and ready to crimp.



Tools and Materials:



Swager:
Nicopress also makes a bolt-cutter-style tool that has the same jaws as the bench mount but the bench mount is more efficient and easier to use because it only requires one hand to operate, allowing you to position and hold the sleeve/cable with your other hand. The link below outlines some of the various tools made by Nicopress.
http://www.versales.com/ns/nicopress/nicotoolsndex.html


Cutters/Pliers:
A good pair of cable cutters is worth the investment and will last you a long time. I recommend the Swiss-made Felco C7 cutters. They will cleanly cut all of the cable diameters that are used for making heads. Any standard pair of pliers will work – rubberized handles are nice.
http://www.versales.com/ns/felco/felco.html


Cable:
Galvanized aircraft cable or ‘wire rope’ is standard for heads and rivet hangers. Stainless steel cable is available but is more expensive and is ‘slippery.’ Because it is ‘slippery’, the swages are at least 20% to 30% weaker than with galvanized cable. For strength, I prefer to use galvanized cable for almost everything – the exception being Rurps, which have a tendency to become fixed. Obviously, heads become fixed too but strength is more of a concern with single-strand cable, especially in the smaller sizes. Heads can be removed when deteriorated, and replaced with new ones.

Two different cable configurations are used in the manufacturing of aid gear – 7x7, which is less expensive, and 7x19, which is more flexible and slightly stronger in the #2 size. 7x7 is used for #1 and #2 gear and 7x19 is used for #3 and #4 gear. 7x19 should be used for #2 cinch hangers because of its flexibility though it does have a tendency to fray much more than 7x7 in this size. Some manufacturers use 7x7 for #3 and #4 heads because of expense but this is not recommended.
This link covers some of the details on cable.
http://www.webriggingsupply.com/pages/catalog/wirerope_cable/wirerope-cable.html#A

Cool extraneous cable picture:
http://www.wrca.com/


Oval Sleeves:
As with cable, two different types of sleeves are used in the manufacturing of aid gear – copper sleeves and aluminum sleeves. Copper sleeves are available in plain copper or zinc/tin-plated copper and aluminum sleeves are available in plain aluminum. Plated sleeves should not be used for the sleeve that is pasted (i.e. the head of the head) but are better for all other purposes because they are more resistant to corrosion.

Copper vs. Aluminum: Pick up a bag of a few hundred copper sleeves and another of aluminum sleeves and you will quickly notice the difference in weight (mass). After all, that’s what the Periodic Table says, right? Aluminum sleeves are softer and more malleable than copper sleeves and tend to stick a little bit better in flaring placements. Because of these properties, the aluminum (in the smaller sizes) can be thinned to the point that the cable starts to (or does) rip through the head during testing, falling, or cleaning. The only thing that I use #1 aluminum sleeves for is the loose sleeve on a #1 standard rivet hanger or a hanging stove. #2 aluminum sleeves are slightly larger than #2 copper sleeves, making them about a #2 1/3 head (or something like that…). Copper is stronger, more durable, and less likely to tear. See “What to Make” below for specifics.
Check out this link for more info on sleeves.
http://www.versales.com/ns/nicopress/nicosleeves01.html#top


WARNING:
http://www.stageriggingonline.com/tools---fittings-swage-fittings-aluminum-sleeves.html


Head Size/Oval Sleeve Size/Sleeve and Cable Diameter/Cable Configuration/Cable Strength:
#0 = B4 = 3/64” = 7x7 = 270 lbs.
#1 = C = 1/16” = 7x7 = 480 lbs.
#2 = G = 3/32” = 7x7 = 920 lbs.
#2 = G = 3/32” = 7x19 = 1,000 lbs.
#3 = M = 1/8” = 7x19 = 2,000 lbs.
#4 = P = 5/32” = 7x19 = 2,800 lbs.
#5 = X = 3/16”

The cables strengths above seem to be pretty standard and are consistent between different suppliers/manufacturers.




What to Make:

The following is a list of different types of swaged items that I feel should be included in any swaging fiends repertoire. Some of the items listed are rather specialized and are rarely used (in the most desperate of situations). Sleeve materials are listed in parentheses; clip-in loop/cable connection sleeve first and head(s)/loose sleeve second; the sub-lettering ‘p’ stands for plated. It is not critical that you use plated copper sleeves. Do not substitute aluminum sleeves for copper sleeves; copper sleeves are stronger. The #2 copperhead shown in the photos above does not have a plated copper sleeve on the clip-in loop because I was not thinking at the time when I made it. This post has gone from a simple sequence of steps, to an extreme ramble-fest on the essence of Geekdom.… So, I guess the answer is yes…
http://www.rockclimbing.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=30765&postdays=0&postorder=asc&topic_view=&start=0


I have not discussed #0 heads because a separate tool is required to make them and the cable strength is ridiculously low. The tool (B4) and cable size are used for cam trigger-wire repair. A #1 head can be hammered flat before placing and fit into the micro-est of seams or grooves, making the #0 head a myth or mere joke.

#1
single head (pCu)(Cu)
double head (pCu)(Cu)
double-cable double head (pCu)(Cu)
circlehead (pCu)(Cu)
double-cable circlehead (pCu)(Cu)
double-cable double head circlehead (pCu)(Cu)
standard rivet hanger (pCu)(Al)

#2
single head (pCu)(Cu)
single head (pCu)(Al)
double head (pCu)(Cu)
double head (pCu)(Al)
double-cable double head (pCu)(Cu)
double-cable double head (pCu)(Al)
circlehead (pCu)(Cu)
circlehead (pCu)(Al)
double-cable circlehead (pCu)(Cu)
double-cable circlehead (pCu)(Al)
double-cable double head circlehead (pCu)(Cu)
double-cable double head circlehead (pCu)(Al)
standard rivet hanger (pCu)(Al)
cinch rivet hanger (7x19) (pCu)(pCu)

#3
single head (pCu)(Cu)
single head (Al)(Al)
double head (pCu)(Cu)
double head (pCu)(Al)
circlehead (Al)(Al)
standard rivet hanger (Al/Cu)
cinch rivet hanger (pCu)(pCu)

#4
single head (pCu)(Cu)
single head (Al)(Al)
double head (pCu)(Al)
circlehead (Al)(Al)
standard rivet hanger (pCu)(Al)
cinch rivet hanger (pCu)(pCu)
Funkness Device (pCu)

#5
single head (Al #4)(Al)
circlehead (Al#4)(Al)

(If reading this list doesn’t make you dizzy, then you need to drink more beer.)




Photo #11:
This is just about everything that you should ever need. I have left out some of the items from the list above because they are so rarely used.


1. Wrist-loop, #2 cable, recycled tubing - Hurricane hand drill.
2. Funkness Device, #4 cable with clear vinyl tubing.
3. Standard rivet hanger, #1
4. Cinch rivet hanger, #1
5. Single copperhead, #1 (two lengths)
6. Double copperhead, #1
7. The ‘double double.’ Double copperhead, double-cable, #1 (two lengths)
8. Circlehead, copper, #1
9. Circlehead, copper, double-cable, #1
10. Circlehead ,double copperhead, double-cable, #1
11. Single copperhead, #2
12. Single alumihead, #2
13. Single aluminum cylinder-head, #2
14. Single aluminum nut-head, #2
15. Double copperhead, #2
16. Double aluminhead, #2
17. Double copperhead, double-cable, #2
18. Double alumihead, double-cable, #2
19. Circlehead, copper, #2
20. Circlehead, aluminum, #2
21. Circlehead, copper, double-cable, #2
22. Circlehead, double copperhead, #2
23. Standard rivet hanger, #2
24. Cinch rivet hanger, #2
25. Circlehead, aluminum, #3
26. Standard rivet hanger, #3
27. Cinch rivet hanger, #3
28. Single alumihead, #3
29. Double alumihead, #3
30. Circlehead, aluminum, #4
31. Standard rivet hanger, #4
32. Single alumihead, #4
33. Single alumihead, #5




Well, that’s about all I can think of for now. There are probably a few things that I’ve forgotten so if you have any questions, ask away. I can post more pics if necessary. If you need supplies, send me an email and I will send you info on my materials supplier – best prices around. I was given the nickname “copperhead” 10 years ago when I worked at A5 in Flagstaff so I decided to use it here (RC.comm).


Alright then. Now that you know how to make heads and the like, get yourself a swager and some materials, grab a beer, and get to work!!!

Have fun.





MY DISCLAIMER: IF YOU DON’T KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING AND YOU GO OUT AND GET YOURSELF HURT OR KILLED THEN IT IS NOT MY FAULT. PERIOD. CLIMB AT YOUR OWN RISK. FOR ALL YOU KNOW, I DON’T KNOW. OK? GOT IT? GOOD.





To compliment some of the points made in the above post, I thought I would share a couple of quick stories. The first begins on a short left-traversing system below a steep bulge. I was on a head (don’t remember, #2 or #3…) and had just placed an aluminum #2 single-cable circlehead. I tested it and it looked ok. Then, I got on it, climbed up a step, and began to look to the left. As I looked around and back at the circlehead, I noticed that the cable was beginning to rip through the sleeve. Hmmm… Not good. It almost seemed like I could see the cable moving. With a little adrenaline going, I was placing a #3 head to the left in no time. Going for a ride didn’t seem like a good idea with the gear and features below me. As I placed the head in a frenzy, I continued to look at the circlehead and watched the remaining metal thin. Tap, tap, tap, tap… clip, get on it. Whew! I didn’t test the #3 but knew that it was a lot better than the time-bomb that I was just hanging from. The #3 held and I continued on. Since then, I have placed very few, if any, aluminum #2 single-cable circleheads. Live and learn.



While working on another new project, I encountered one of the ‘more tricky’ features that I have aid-climbed. With about 90 feet of rope out, I hung from a 1/4" buttonhead bolt (with rivets below) and pondered the virgin feature above me – a 3 or 4” thick, under-cut, corner leading up and to the right. The crack separating it from the wall was thin – way thin. I was super-psyched and began by placing an aluminum #1 single-cable circlehead in a tiny, straight-up slot. The crack was too thin and not deep enough for a Rurp or a #1 blade. After several minutes of delicate tapping, I was ready to test it. A modest, but gentle test convinced me to get on it and I was on my way. The next placement wasn’t quite horizontal and was at more of a diagonal angle, though still straight up. I placed a double #1 copperhead (single-cable) and prepared to test it. It held for a few good bounces and then popped…and so did the circlehead. Yeehaw!! I was dangling below the bolt before I knew it. The wall below was smooth and slightly overhanging so going for ‘the whipper’ was no big deal.

I climbed back up to the bolt and tried again. The circlehead had ripped cleanly so I had a fresh placement to deal with. This time, I placed a copper #1 circlehead instead. I made sure that it was welded and began placing the next double head, as before. The double head survived a modest test and I was on the thing. The next placement was the same – another double #1 copperhead. As I was delicately pasting… POP!! The head that I was on ripped… and I went for another ride. I looked up, and to my amazement, wasn’t hanging from the bolt… but from the #1 circlehead! “WOAH!!! That’s frickin’ SICK!!!” I said, still wondering if it was going to blow. I made it back up to the bolt and un-weighted the circlehead. I looked at the circlehead again in disbelief, “No freakin’ way!” then realized what had happened. The head that I was on popped while I was tapping on the next head… “This thing’s freakin’ expando dude!!!” I yelled down to my buddy. “Oh… now I get it…” The feature sure didn’t look expando, especially considering that I wasn’t nailing it.

It was time for attempt number three, with expando techniques employed. Repeating the same process yet again, I finally made it onto the second double head and continued on to place two more, tiptoeing on thin ice. The crack then opened enough to accept a #2 alumihead and things got easier. A few more placements brought me to a blank spot where I drilled a belay.

So… a copper #1 circlehead held me (185lbs.) after a 12- to 15-foot total fall (mostly rope stretch) with about 90 feet of rope out. Go figure.



Sorry for such a me-me-me story but I wanted to prove a few points, or rather disprove some of the myths that heads are always sketchy aid gear. Yes, there is such a thing as A1 heads.

As I say, Live and Learn and Whatever Works

Cheers All !!!!
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jan 2, 2004 - 03:06am PT
wow, sweet...thanks man!
jt

Trad climber
joshua tree, ca
Jan 2, 2004 - 08:50am PT
Dude,

You are a plethora of knowledge!

JT
David

Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
Jan 2, 2004 - 02:11pm PT
Wow. Pretty fricking comprehensive. Thanks.
Funkness

Big Wall climber
So.Cal.
Jan 2, 2004 - 03:33pm PT
I think the bottom line for most of us average joes is how much will it cost me overall to make what I need? I must be a "trade router" cuz I dont think I've ever needed more than 10 or 15 heads on a route. I have been able to improvise and make a few pretty good ones. For swaging I used a $25 two piece thing. It works by tightening screws on the dies with the head sandwiched in between. It seemed pretty unscientfic to me. I've made heads,circs,rivet hangers,etc. for dirt cheap.
By the way "Minerals" those stories are great. I could read a whole book of that stuff. Such first hand accounts of first accenting is very interesting. I can't help but wonder what routes you refered to.
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2004 - 12:54am PT
I have seen the type of press that you mention at hardware stores, but don’t know how much I would trust it. Do you have a gauge to check the sleeves?

For those who don’t place heads that often, the swager investment isn’t worth it. If you don’t want to fork two or three bills, you can buy stuff from Klaus, Tucker, or the Fish. Why save 5 or 10 bucks making it yourself with jive and climb on something that you don’t trust when those guys will sell you stuff for a good price?

The first story is about the third pitch variation (Right Ventricle) of Zenyatta. The second story is a rou*&^@#$%%#@$@#$&*()&^%$#@zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz… hello? …hello..? uh… hellooo?….. dammit, I think it’s busted. CHUNK CHUNK…. maybe that’ll work…… zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz ahh, schit, this thing’s F’ed……… damn technology….. helloooooo???? Anyone there……………………..?
Michelle

Trad climber
Earth
Jan 4, 2004 - 01:09am PT
hey, what'd you do with all of those rocks?

Funkness

Big Wall climber
So.Cal.
Jan 5, 2004 - 12:51am PT
Gauge?? nope. But I have done some bounce tests at home, none have popped and I've used a bunch without incident. Now you have me worried. I think I'll check them all. Seems like the clip-in loop would be the most important since the "Head" gets pasted anyways. I agree using questionable gear is lame. And yeah I've bought a ton of premade stuff.
nature

climber
some other life
Jan 5, 2004 - 10:51am PT
You don't have to drop an arm and a leg on a new swager. Four letters my friends - E B A Y. Search for swager. I own two now - dunno why. Both are new. One does sizes 1-5 and the other 1-3. I purchased both for about $40. Heck, I don't need both - anyone want to buy one? They are not the bench mounted versions but even those that I've seen on ebay close for less than $75 new.

Also, you will find more uses than just copperheads and rivet hangers. You can drill holes in all sorts of sh#t and swage a loop to it.
mudimba

climber
Baria
Jan 6, 2004 - 06:41pm PT
Minerals -

That little cinch tool you have is priceless. Every time I've made heads I've ended up with bloody thumbs and little loop of wire sticking out the top of the head . . . Thanks for the info!
kfons

Trad climber
Madison, WI
Jan 7, 2004 - 10:58pm PT
I've got a ton of extra Circle heads and regular heads for sale. They were made by Fish and Tucker tech - $1.50 each.
e-mail me for pictures,more info, etc.

Kevin
kfons53598@yahoo.com
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 24, 2004 - 07:23pm PT
[Buuuuuuurp!]

Superb post!
Roman

Trad climber
3 hrs. from Seneca
Apr 16, 2007 - 03:50pm PT
I happen to be trying to learn to make some of my own gear. This thread was so helpful that I am bumping it.
YetAnotherDave

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Apr 16, 2007 - 06:14pm PT
the image links look broken in minerals' repost. I reconstituted the howto on my own website a while ago, and rebuilt the images:
http://dave.clendenan.ca/climbing/copperheads/
Roman

Trad climber
3 hrs. from Seneca
Apr 17, 2007 - 10:52am PT
Awesome thanks!
WBraun

climber
Apr 17, 2007 - 10:59am PT
YetAnotherDave

Thanks for rebuilding that tutorial on copperhead building.

That article is the best I've ever seen, actually it is awesome, and text book quality.

Awesome work Minerals and Dave.
pyro

Big Wall climber
Ventura
Apr 17, 2007 - 01:28pm PT
what a "safty session"
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2007 - 09:06pm PT
Thanks for the compliments, Roman and Werner! We must be in a time warp!

But, I have to ask you, Dave... have you ever heard of the word plagiarism? I tried to navigate your website to see where the link came from but the damn varmint wanted a password ‘er somethin’… I didn’t see where you stated where you copied this information from, nor does it appear as I originally posted it (bold type, deleted sections, grammar, etc.). Yes, it is nice to have the pictures back although that might have been just a matter of fixing the links; I looked through RC.com but am having a few troubles with this Mac (sour apple (…me or it…)) so I don’t know if RC.com changed the host info for the photos or what… Maybe it’s just a simple matter of editing the original post to fix the links?

So, with that said, did you write the article? If not, maybe you should reference where you found the article as well as the original author (let alone ask permission to post it on YOUR website). Or maybe I should first check to see if the word ‘ethical’ is still included in the dictionary…

-Bryan Law
deuce4

Big Wall climber
the Southwest
Apr 17, 2007 - 10:39pm PT
Of course, it's time to mention that the Funkness Device™™™™™®© mentioned in the article is an A5 trademark, coined when I wrote the "big wall tech manual" 'cuz I didn't want anyone reading any cuss words.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Oct 2, 2008 - 10:34pm PT
bump
YetAnotherDave

Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
Oct 3, 2008 - 10:53am PT
Hey Minerals

Belated apology - I missed your comments first time around.

I didn't in any way mean to pass your work off as my own, just wanted to make sure that the rebuild of RC.com didn't break the HOWTO you clearly put a lot of thought into.

And FWIW the only link to that page was from this thread, so anyone finding it should have already known whose work it really was. I thought I had a link to your original post in there too, by way of attribution, but my server's offline now (and likely to be for a while) so I can't check it.

Thanks for sharing your knowledge with the rest of the community,

Dave
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2008 - 05:33pm PT
No worries, Dave.

I fixed it.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Oct 13, 2008 - 05:41pm PT
Mephistopheles wins again.
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Oct 13, 2008 - 06:13pm PT
Minerals,
Great tutorial. Having made literally thousands of heads in my formative years at the Animal Nickname Copperhead Gulag, this is as comprehensive as you can be.
Question though: Have you had any issues with sleeve deformation on the slider-rivet hangers (#4 and #27)? Any thoughts on equalizing heads (with a floater sleeve on the cable between the main head and clip-in loop)? Zero heads--fact or fiction?
VLG
Minerals

Social climber
The Deli
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2008 - 11:21pm PT
Possessed? Maybe.

Thanks, Marty. As far as the slider/cinch rivet hangers go, the only major concern is with the #1 hangers. #2 and #3 sleeves don’t deform too much (although air-time testing might prove otherwise). But hey, for body-weight they work; past that… Good keyhole hangers are always the best bet.

Wasn’t there a tech tip article way back, written by Randy Leavitt, about equalized head designs (or something like that)? Unless the placements are way dicey/rotten, I can’t see much need for anything other than #1’s equalized. I’ve made a few but never placed any of ‘em. Guess the trick is to tap on the sliding sleeve to compress it once the two heads are placed, to “backup” the equalization (as in cordalette vs. sliding X). You tell me. Doubles stick pretty darn well.

Zeros? Yeah, they exist… on the trigger wires on your cams!
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Feb 8, 2011 - 12:57pm PT
gear nerding bump
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Mar 2, 2011 - 12:15am PT
Just had a full nico kit handed down to me.

Needed a few tips.

Thanks to minerals, I found them here.

Great tutorial, I read it years ago, but I needed info now and there it was.

Question: Is the cinch apparatus (for pulling the wire flush to the sleeve) just a hole with a slot for all sizes up to #4. I used the vice as a slot.



matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Mar 2, 2011 - 01:10am PT
Thhanks for sharing!
MTucker

Ice climber
Arizona
Mar 2, 2011 - 04:22am PT
That is a big right up. Nice
wildone

climber
Troy, MT
Mar 2, 2011 - 05:22am PT
Awesome. I got all the "village idiot's" homemade copperheads. He made them wrong, by that I mean the cable isn't doubled back on itself through the head. Just straight through, and crimped down.
Haven't used one yet!










Locker-style edit:





I'm gonna die!!!!
nature

climber
Hampi Karnataka India
Mar 2, 2011 - 07:11am PT
you might not die but you'll certainly enjoy being a human zipper.
Just straight through, and crimped down.
yikes!
Sonic

Trad climber
Boulder, Co
Sep 27, 2013 - 05:52pm PT
DIY bump
FRUMY

Trad climber
Bishop,CA
Sep 27, 2013 - 06:22pm PT
TFPU
Batrock

Trad climber
Burbank
Jan 31, 2019 - 08:55am PT
bump
Messages 1 - 34 of total 34 in this topic
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