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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 16, 2016 - 07:52pm PT
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Blue collar routes with more bang for the buck than the grade would indicate....
NEB of HCR, Steck Salathe, Lost Arrow Chimney, Book of Job...
On the short side....
Generator Crack, Stepping Out, The Cleft
Or you can go prancing around on pin scars in between selfies.
Others?
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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May 16, 2016 - 07:55pm PT
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"Or you can go prancing around on pin scars in between selfies."
OMG_THATISF*#KINGPRICELESS
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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May 16, 2016 - 08:26pm PT
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Flatus
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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May 16, 2016 - 08:30pm PT
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Strong skinny people "prance" on pin scars.
Fat old people just grease off.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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May 16, 2016 - 10:40pm PT
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Well obviously Ahab
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 17, 2016 - 07:19am PT
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Blind Faith
Mental block
Free stone
Lunch ledge direct on Washington column!!!!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 17, 2016 - 07:36am PT
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Pink Dreams.
Heck, just swimming across the river right now would burn a few.
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zBrown
Ice climber
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May 17, 2016 - 07:51am PT
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Cut down on calorie loss, read here and weep.
Thanks to nah000.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2595618&msg=2807961#msg2807961
E. YOSEMITE [ - ec - hd - bc]
Above Average Trip Report (The Meadows and Beyond) [Micronut: Oct. 14, 2008]
Ain't Skeerd: A Halloween TR on The Nutscracker [Micronut: Oct. 30, 2011]
Angel Wings - First Ascent on The Golden Pillar! (V 5.11+ C2) [Vitaliy M.: Oct. 8, 2015]
A quick visit to the Valley - Trip Report [Crimpergirl: Sep. 19, 2006]
Bubbs Creek Wall - The Emperor (FA/FFA V 5.12- or 5.11 A0) [Vitaliy M.: Jul. 13, 2015]
An Oddyssey to Shangri La (FA and an FFA in a little paradise) [Vitaliy M. (+ DMT): Nov. 17, 2014]
coonyard pinnacle-first ascent sept 1960 [guido: Nov. 2, 2008]
Coonyard Pinnacle- 50 Years Later [guido: May 12, 2011]
Crisis in Yosemite - My fall of a lifetime [TBair: Nov. 14, 2011]
FA: Psychedelic Wall, Sentinel Rock, 1966 [BooDawg: Dec. 12, 2015]
FA Sentinel Falls [chappy: Apr. 1, 2007]
Fairview Dome-Regular Route 2nd Ascent 1962 Foott and Guido [guido: Feb. 26, 2010]
Freewheeling: La Direttissima per Ora Dove, in b/w, Oct 1973 [Roger Breedlove: Mar. 11, 2011]
Hey Coz, Sure would like to hear the story of Southern Belle [Prod: Apr. 1, 2008]
If you like finger cracks, you need to climb the Crucifix. [tahoe 523: Jun. 20, 2011]
Into the womb of the Crack of Doom. [Salamanizer: Dec. 16, 2012]
Lost Arrow Chimney (TR) [Salamanizer: May 13, 2008]
MODERN FAs in the SUPER SECRET AREA (THE X FILES) [Vitaliy M.: Oct. 20, 2015]
New Route near Washington Column (A Trip Report) [Micronut: Oct. 1, 2009]
No Rescue: the Bob Locke Accident on Mt. Watkins [Rick A: Sep. 8, 2007]
North Buttress, Merriam peak & Royce lakes [RyanD: Feb. 9, 2012]
"Scrambles in the Range of Light" [Tarbuster: Jul. 23, 2006]
Steck-Salathe In Winter With Kor-1963 [guido: Apr. 7, 2011]
The Bachar-Yerian: A Three Year Obsession Comes to a Close [Jon Clark: Sep. 30, 2013]
The Birth of Wheat Thin [Peter Haan: Sep. 24, 2006]
The making of another Yosemite Valley Obscurity [Ed Hartouni: Jun. 11, 2006]
Trip Report -- Skull Queen in Winter [Brutus of Wyde: May 5, 2006]
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Marcus McCoy from somewhere over the rainbow...
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May 17, 2016 - 08:08am PT
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I find taking social media worthy selfies to be rather strenuous, if not even, exhausting ...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2016 - 09:06am PT
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Yep, I never have understood why people find the second pitch of Reed's Direct strenuous.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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May 17, 2016 - 11:13am PT
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So, this means you're back from the far reaches, (Pakistan)?
Jim?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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May 17, 2016 - 11:19am PT
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That new route, Absolutely Free
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2016 - 12:04pm PT
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Steve....going to Pakistan for seven weeks on 8/11.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 17, 2016 - 12:13pm PT
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Tulgey Wood gives you the best of both worlds some of each. Prancing and thugery. Assembly line will get you some.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 17, 2016 - 12:33pm PT
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Walls in a day and climbing hard offwidths...makes sense. That Basketcase thing must be a burly day. Don't really think Book of Job or NEB are very burly. Both are very good with some wide...opinions may vary of course.
For me personally, doing Lost Arrow Spire Direct as my first bigwall was a fairly hard time. Done in the middle of July with temps in the upper 80s to lower 90s.
Day 1 hike two ropes to the top of Yosemite Falls by myself and fix them into the notch. Attempt to hike 6 gallons of water to the base. Got lost trying to scramble over some 5th class rock band. Got tired, turned around and hiked the water back to the car.
Day 2 met up with my partner, hiked the sh#t to the base and climbed to the first ledge. Sunburned, tired leading the wide pitches.
Day 3 partner was not quick leading their pitches (both of us were noobs with aid) and i end up taking the last few pitches to our bivy ledge. Finishing in the dark. Very thirsty and sunburned.
Day 4 led all those pitches from the ledge to the notch with aid cruxes that seemed challenging. Not much at all water left. Not enough for two to make dinner. Found OLD water in the notch with sh#t floating in it. Was able to boil some of that to make myself ramen. Gave the good water to the partner.
Day 5 did the last 2 pitches to the top and somehow figured out how to tyrolean. Partner's jumar was messed up so had to set up a 2:1 haul system to get them across. Both are beat, sunburned and THIRSTY. Hike back lasted for eternity.
When one takes on something above their head, you end up expanding more calories than necessary. After that experience I decided doing the Nose in a day is only for pro climbers and genetic freaks. Turned out it isn't too bad when you figure out a few things...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - May 17, 2016 - 12:46pm PT
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Vitaliy.....I'm not talking about overall burlyness....I'm thinking of caloric expenditure relative to the grade a climb sports
Cases in point.....the SS is more burly than the Chouinard Herbert even with a much lower technical grade and the NEB of HCR is more burly than the East Buttress of Middle even though they have the same grade.
Also, compare Generator Crack with Sherrie's Crack at 10c.
Two years ago on successive days I climbed the Book of Job and South by South West with a friend.
About the former he said...."geeze, all that work and we only get 5.10 credit." About the latter his comment was..."wow, hardly broke a sweat and we get 5.11 credit."
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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May 17, 2016 - 01:48pm PT
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Also, compare Generator Crack with Sherrie's Crack at 10c.
Oh god, don't do that to me! :)
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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May 17, 2016 - 06:00pm PT
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Wait until the sport prancers have the lines set up at Chapel Wall then show up and send all their lines. Be in the bar by 3:00 PM.
Or lead one of the 5.12s and blow their minds.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 17, 2016 - 08:50pm PT
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almost any 5.6 to 5.7 chimney in Yosemite seems to be more burly than the grade would indicate... it's not universally true, but if the route was put up before 1970 the generalization seems to hold.
Remnant, Right seemed a struggle much more than it should have been...
The Cookie, Right ugh, gassed out on that one after the chimney, definitely ran into the aerobic regime
of course, I probably really suck at chimneys... but still... for some reason, 5.8 and 5.9 chimneys seem appropriately rated.
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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May 17, 2016 - 08:58pm PT
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If it was straightforward it would be called golf...
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