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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Apr 26, 2016 - 03:47pm PT
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When you head right from the dike up there on the 3rd pitch for the steeper, harder section, it is easy to miss that one bolt and turn it into a really big run. There is also an easiest way and many little-bit-harder ways to go.
I've always liked this route. First did it around 1975 and have probably climbed it 20 times since.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Apr 26, 2016 - 05:06pm PT
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One of my favorite days in the meadows. Jaybro and I did this together. I got to the top of pitch 3 and could not stop smiling.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Apr 26, 2016 - 07:16pm PT
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Ditto on the comment from my esteemed friend "Life is a Bivouac." Tom was a good lad.
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Bob Harrington
climber
Bishop, California
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Apr 26, 2016 - 09:33pm PT
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Once I accidentally clipped the trail rope into the bolt after the runout on the third pitch. Didn't realize it until I got to the belay and looked down. Somehow, it didn't seem to register as making much difference. Is a 200' fall really that much different than a 100' fall (or whatever)? Either way you're climbing in a no fall zone.
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cotuclimber
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Apr 26, 2016 - 10:51pm PT
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This route us so so. Nothing special.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Northern California
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Apr 27, 2016 - 09:20am PT
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del cross, part of my memory of that day is meeting you up there and sharing my stoke. Hope you are well.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Released into general population, Idaho
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Apr 27, 2016 - 09:33am PT
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Around 1980 in EBs: I don't remember it feeling particularly runout. I do remember it feeling easier to just keep padding my way up the thing with a "clip 'em if you got 'em" attitude.
IIRC there was a 5.10 route that went straight up where Dike Route went diagonal. Was that Needles and Spoons? As I recall there was discussion that it was easier than Dike Route simply because it has bolts every 10-15 feet. Albeit spinners.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Apr 27, 2016 - 09:54am PT
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Needle Spoon - bolts everywhere, but a nice little climb.
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