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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 22, 2016 - 08:57am PT
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I know about the friction between climbers and the Navajo. There is friction, and climbers are forced to sneak around. I think I know of a way around this. Damn. We used to visit the Ranger's station in Chinle and get our permit from them. How it got shut down is complicated, but basically it came to the attention of the district ranger, and he shut us down. The Navajo had nothing to do with that. They treated us like kings.
We used to jump a site in Canyon de Chelly. It was totally legal back in the mid to late 80's, and we would go out there several times a year, spend a week doing 4 jumps a day, but since no white is allowed in the confines of Canyon de Chelly, we hired a guide and paid him 150 bucks per day.
We always used the same guy. If you visited his house, he had a ton of Carl Boenish's early BASE photos on his wall. The Navajo dug BASE, believe it or not. Perhaps because we always asked and we always paid. We showed respect.
If climbers would pay, say, a couple of hundred to do the Totem Pole, and 100 for Spider Rock, and 300 to do the Mitten Thumbs in Monument Valley, they would change their tune most likely. Leave your payment with the person who owns the land around the Totem Pole. Put it in an envelope and slip it beneath the door on the sly.
It would get around, and they would realize that climbers aren't just any whitey. They would feel respected. Yes, they like money. Perhaps it is because there is so little of it on the res. If climbers were to start paying for their bandit climbs, it might change things.
To Indians, it shows respect. We think it is just greed, but it isn't. Climbing now is taking without giving. Start giving, and see what happens.
Eventually, the Park Service shut us down in Canyon de Chelley. It still gets done, but the Navajo don't make a cent. They need to figure out some way of paying as well.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:03am PT
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First step: kick the Park Service out of Navajo/Hopi lands. They got some nerve.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:06am PT
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Buy a beater 1992 Chevy pickup like mine.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:09am PT
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Is that a stealth machine, Jim?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:11am PT
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Indeed
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:13am PT
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Good post, though I'm not so sure about this:
"climbers aren't just any whitey".
The whiteness of climbing has been noted elsewhere, and climbers are probably no better or worse than the rest.
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
Shetville , North of Los Angeles
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:14am PT
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Chevy pick up runnin with the spare donut off granny's cadillac...
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:22am PT
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Treat all the Navajo you meet with respect.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:32am PT
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Pay-to-climb isn't necessarily a new or invalid concept. It's been going on for years in Colorado. If you want to climb all the 14,000 foot peaks, be prepared to pony up some cash to climb Culebra Peak, which is on 100% privately owned land. It's impossible to "sneak in," as the roads to the mountain are privately maintained and patrolled. Be prepared to have your car towed away if they find it w/o a permit purchased at the ranch headquarters. A few years ago, it was something like--$60 per person.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:37am PT
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Donini failed to mention the Chupacabra mounted on the hood.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:43am PT
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gone totally vicarious, strictly virtual. they do bitcoin?
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:47am PT
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There are Navajos that actively climb, some of them have posted on here in the past. I have a relative from Shiprock who is married to a Navajo climber, I have never met him, and not sure if he climbs on the rez, they live in Phoenix I think.
Having base jumpers splat on tribal land is really bad juju and might explain some of the resistance.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Apr 22, 2016 - 09:54am PT
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Drive, hike, climb, be respectful of everyone and everything.
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KevinK
climber
Flagstaff
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Apr 22, 2016 - 10:35am PT
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I've seen this sentiment mentioned numerous times, even by climbers I highly respect, but I think formalized high peak fees are a bad precedent and a bad idea. For pretty much everything on the Rez outside of the Monument Valley Tribal Loop and Canyon De Chelly, knocking on a door, introducing yourself, making friends, maybe giving some coffee, a bag of flour or apples, or more, will get you access. Even better, find the Navajo climbers out there, make some friends, and go with them. Sure, some people feel comfortable and can afford paying landowners or Navajo guides, but this is by no means mandatory. If you're looking for a quick in I believe there are a few locals looking for more bolts and a helping hand in sport bolting some of the top rope routes at Black Rock, the local's crag between Fort Defiance and Window Rock.
I've knocked on quite a few doors asking if I can park and climb, most people have had no problem and even the one person that did turn me down was extremely nice about it. A few have gone so far as to thank me for coming out and visiting them on their land. I think the only other whites that ever come knocking are the Mormons...
As far as potential access in Monument Valley, for now I think it's best to take it slow. 12 years ago when the Access Fund almost got it opened there were no or very few Navajo climbers, now there are some and the numbers are growing. I think the ideal way to get it opened would be to help support the grassroots building of a real active Navajo climbing community that pushes for it, not just whitey coming by and effectively bribing our way in. I'd rather pay $150 to buy a Navajo climber a rope than a peak fee to the Tribal Parks office.
If all else fails, Donini is right (as usual), get a beater pickup ;)
But your Colorado or California plates aren't going to cut it; you need AZ, NM, or UT might work in a pinch. Also full size and no cap on the back. Only bilagáana with something to hide have camper shells.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Apr 22, 2016 - 11:01am PT
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crunch has made a connection with some Dineh climbers.
He slips them a C note for each day.
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JC Marin
Trad climber
CA
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Apr 22, 2016 - 12:26pm PT
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Reincarnate as a Navajo
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 22, 2016 - 01:59pm PT
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With these guys?
vvvvvvvv That and 3 dollars will get you a small coffee at Harbuck's
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Apr 22, 2016 - 02:00pm PT
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My son is an enrolled Navajo, not sure what access that gets me or him. I think it gets him out of the daily use fee in Marble Canyon.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Apr 22, 2016 - 02:01pm PT
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I'd rather pay $150 to buy a Navajo climber a rope than a peak fee to the Tribal Parks office.
word
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Apr 22, 2016 - 02:26pm PT
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I'd rather pay $150 to buy a Navajo climber a rope than a peak fee to the Tribal Parks office.
word
Seconding that
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