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Stone Cowboy
Trad climber
Livermore, CA.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 21, 2016 - 05:01pm PT
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EC JOE...we miss you! Thanks for the climb brother, Much Respect!!!
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 21, 2016 - 07:19pm PT
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That's an amazing 130 feet tucked in the shadow.
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 21, 2016 - 10:56pm PT
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Like Prince's Final Cryptic Message: "Wait a Few Days Before You Waste Any Prayers."
ec
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 21, 2016 - 11:02pm PT
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quote of the month! classic...
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 22, 2016 - 07:25am PT
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Nice to hear EC is still kickin'. :)
Did White Punks years ago but skipped the final pitch so we could rap--a bit of a chore even so. Big fun.
BAd
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 22, 2016 - 07:41am PT
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Jebus- had the exact same experience. We climbed it last October and topped out right when it was going dark.
My buddy wanted to shoot straight down for the road but I knew there were 300 foot cliff-outs. We traversed East then South through the forest forever to gain the main trail.
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Apr 22, 2016 - 10:51am PT
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If EC didn't die on those routes he put up, I don't think anything can kill him.
WPOD looks like a classic southern sierra funtime. Must do soon!
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Radish
Trad climber
SeKi, California
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Apr 22, 2016 - 12:02pm PT
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Cheers for WPOD ! Quite a sobering climb that tests where your at with all the skill sets in climbing at that level. Have done it several times and everytime some part of it was HARD! Good to do some research on the rap which goes good from the top for a while then its like???? A gateway climb to the harder stuff for sure and a Great and Classic locale that's wild and woolie! Has been called the Best Moderate Multi pitch in Calif.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 22, 2016 - 02:46pm PT
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My buddy wanted to shoot straight down for the road but I knew there were 300 foot cliff-outs. We traversed East then South through the forest forever to gain the main trail.
Good choice. Stay to close to the rock and you'll come to some steep terrain.
The raps are a pain in the b**ls. More so with a party of three. Much better to start early, leave nothing at the base, and walk off. Once you've done it a time or two (other good climbs top out) you'll have it dialed. It's not so bad then.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Apr 22, 2016 - 03:01pm PT
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Yeah, gotta go back and do that last pitch. Looks so sweet. It is a challenging climb, so don't let the lowly grade fool you. I knew a bloke who blew it on the run-out slab pitch and took something like a 50 footer! He was kind of known for such antics. Glad I wasn't there to watch, although I did catch him on a nearly disastrous whipper off Thin Ice. I don't think that guy climbs anymore--good thing!
BAd
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 24, 2016 - 01:06pm PT
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If EC didn't die on those routes he put up, I don't think anything can kill him.- limpingcrab
work is killing me slowly...
ec
Death Defying...Pressure Sensitive on Moro Rock, Sequoia NP
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PAUL SOUZA
Trad climber
Central Valley, CA
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Apr 24, 2016 - 01:56pm PT
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Stellar route!
The 5.9 fingers in the dihedral was no joke....buuurly.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Apr 24, 2016 - 04:01pm PT
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I'll say it again, missing the last bolt on the slab was in the top 3 most intense times of my climbing life.
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Archie Richardson
Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
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Apr 24, 2016 - 06:41pm PT
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Slab used to have 2 bolts, BITD. The day I lost my mind ...
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 24, 2016 - 07:02pm PT
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It never had just 2 bolts, except just before I placed the 3rd bolt on the FA of the slab. I added a 4th years later to split the final runout in half.
ec
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Apr 25, 2016 - 09:17pm PT
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Hey EC,
Any idea what year that you added the 4th. I'm thinking that I might have only clipped 2. I remember being nearly certain that, should I fall, I'd hit some big hunk that was far below my belayer.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 26, 2016 - 02:05pm PT
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I always thought the 4th bolt was added later.. RETRO... ????
At the third bolt I always thought the climb went RIGHT for about 20/30 feet. Then one finds some nice hand/foot holds made by water... start up the line... the holds get better-n-better as one gets more run out.
And I like the Rap off of WPOD... takes two 50m ropes. Go straight down the climb located RIGHT of WPOD (voodo chile) IIRC the second rap is SHORT (not to the ends, you set up on a lip of a big drop off and go down like 48 meters)... puts one on the ground about 100 feet from the start... and your stuff.
EC Joe?
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ec
climber
ca
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Apr 26, 2016 - 05:28pm PT
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The whole slab pitch diagonals up and right up small water grooves. As I said up thread, 4th bolt added years later (meaning retro, while replacing the original 3 w/Rawl Stainless 5-Piece. #4 is a Rawl 5/16" Buttonhead...round 1999).
ec
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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Apr 26, 2016 - 06:49pm PT
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I didn't see the 4th bolt this October- May have missed it but I did trend right.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Apr 26, 2016 - 06:53pm PT
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This was before 1999. More like '93. Good times.
That means that I did the pitch with just the first two bolts. Time is making me better. Hehe.
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