The Sheep Buggerers of JT...BITD

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Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 7, 2016 - 03:19pm PT
Swelly
I hope your slides aren't repeats of mine!


Tar told me to take the photo down
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 7, 2016 - 03:21pm PT
I found V on-line
Nice Butt!

My friend


Russ's friend
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2016 - 05:13pm PT
Vikki Vernola, meet Tom Michael a.k.a. Hummerchine's lovely wife, Vicki.
Seen here with Tom Carter, El Cap Meadow, May 1987:


...................................................................



In the photograph, they are scoping, literally …

This guy …





… Guiding this guy, Giuliano, up The Nose:



Here's the skinny on our guided ascent of The Nose:

The patron of our ascent, Inge Vogle, was an heiress connected to the Werner Von Braun Huntsville Alabama WWII rocket program. She hailed from Switzerland at the time of our climb, in 1987. She really, really wanted to meet us on the summit of El Capitan in a helicopter and couldn't understand why the Park service wouldn't allow it!

So, instead of using the East Ledges, we walked out to Tamarack to a meet Inge at her rented motorhome stocked with a feast including limitless bottles of Italian Barolo and Far Niente Chardonnay. This was the first time YMS conducted a guided ascent of El Capitan. We did it in two parties of two. The other guide was Doug Nidever. Inge had rooms kept for Doug and me in the Ahwahnee the entire time we were on the wall, just in case we came down early.

She also rented the Queen's Suite on the top floor of the Ahwahnee, so we could dine there in private. (I think that is all of the seventh floor). She didn't like the dress code requirements for eating down in the public dining room so eventually just rented out the entire Basket Room for our private lunches and dinners, which grew to include many Yosemite locals.

Our wall food was mostly cooked by the Ahwahnee and we filled zip lock bags from seven silver trays of food prepared by the hotel, all laid out for us on a long table up on the seventh floor. It was May, and the weather was cool and we climbed through storms and even some snow, which the Italians liked!

I've never done a TR on this because I only have half of the pictures.
Maybe I could spin this into something worthy of an article for Alpinist, if I get more pictures.

I recently Googled my client, Giuliano Trucco, and see that he appears happy and healthy and still skiing (and probably climbing) in Cervinia.
Doug's client,Walter Cazzanelli, is also present in the link below.

I have a friend who speaks fluent Italian and could probably reconnect me with those guys. Better do it while we are all still alive!

Le Guide Alpine del Cervino:
http://www.guidedelcervino.com/content.asp?ID=2



Inge Vogle, our patron for The Nose (Center, in pink),
On left, Bruce Brossman. To the right of Inge, Giuliano Trucco and Doug Nidever:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2016 - 05:49pm PT
Craig,

... more high school darkroom nuggets from Suicide BITD, less random fluff, if you please?

... And that pic of mine you keep posting is Sue Wint. Courtesy Sue & Charlie Fowler.




.....................................................................



Sue is Da Bomb. Cruises 5.11 in loose shoes. Totally good natured person.


Sue, Eldo:




Sue, Pingora:





*Sue is the Vikki Vernola of the Boulder climbing scene!
(sort of ...)
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2016 - 06:12pm PT
Hensel, Thin Red Line:

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
May 7, 2016 - 07:00pm PT
Roy- man, I'll never forget your story from the Winds with those gals.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2016 - 07:10pm PT
I know, huh, with the magic mushrooms and everything.
You remembered!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2016 - 07:30pm PT
*Just gave Lisa an awesome foot rub,
So, I'm good to go with some more goofy stuff here for you cool cats!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
Erik Eriksson .... MENTOR. Just like Munoz said!
No lie.

This is how it's done:


Photo, Ed Kaufer



*(E and I, With Ed Kaufer, heading up into Mount Watkins, South face, 1981)

 I actually had a number six stopper in. It fell out and E was clueless as of the taking of the photograph.
 Also, my pack strap had just come loose, so I was in a bit of a pickle.

 Good mentorship, clearly, is all about ... Cripes, what is it all about?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2016 - 07:54pm PT
David Evans said:
After we had borrowed the use of Dave's van on that very windy day Dave said to us "you guys have a monkey on your back."

That was the day you and Randy and Craig powdered your noses for a solo train on Walk on the Wild Side, yes?

I was there for that!

I think it was Larry Loads and me, after climbing in the Hall of Horrors, who spied you guys doing that ascent, cordless.

Good call ... good call.
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
May 7, 2016 - 08:00pm PT
TB, thanks for reposting that Thin Red Line.

Those shots of Sue were causing me to ...., breathtaking!

i've walked by that Line many times wishing to feel burn..

Is that a JW Rte?

i like hearing the roundabout of the FA's on this thread the most!

You know, what was going on up to, and the FA day. Keeps me on the edge of my seat..

:)
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 7, 2016 - 08:03pm PT
Me and Booges did Thin Red Line TR

It was cool.
It was easier than we thought it would be


The Walk on the Wild Side Story will have to be posted again

Maybe from Sketchy, or DE
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2016 - 08:08pm PT
Randy Vogel said:
Indeed, looks like Bearamia

Yes, this thread needs more Kim Carpenter a.k.a. Dave Carpenter a.k.a. Bearamiah!

And we thought Clark Jacobs was the ladies man!

With Maria and Mari, 2006 reunion:


Photo, Dave Wonderly
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 7, 2016 - 08:12pm PT
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Craig Fry

Trad climber
So Cal.
May 7, 2016 - 08:14pm PT
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
May 7, 2016 - 08:16pm PT
Me and Booges did Thin Red Line TR

Right on!

didnt Jonny W. lead it though?

or maybe Michael Paul?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2016 - 08:16pm PT
Yabo ... Blazing


photo, Blitzo


................................................................



Commemorative poster featuring Yabo, Planet X, courtesy Dean Fidelman:

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2016 - 08:28pm PT
Thin Red Line, FA (TR) Ron Fawcett, 1985. First lead: Jonny Woodward and Darrel Hensel. (no date given)
henny

Social climber
The Past
May 7, 2016 - 08:32pm PT
Woodward did the second ascent of Thin Red Line, a few minutes after I did the FA. Fawcett had TR'd the line prior to that.

Might have ended up with more than 2 bolts on the route, except JW told me to go for it and refused to send up the bolt kit. But, that's an old story that's been told before.

Edit: Roy beat me to it...

I ended up doing the FA as opposed to JW since he was a little unmotivated after having nearly grounded the day before (on a different route).
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
May 7, 2016 - 08:45pm PT
My info comes from Bartlett's guide. Looks like he has your names reversed.
I wonder if Vogel has the correct order of attribution?

[edit] Actually, Darrel, from reading your post, the correct attribution is to leave Woody's name out of it!
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