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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 27, 2016 - 02:23pm PT
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speaking of "Poopy cracks" in the gym
On photo below approaching poopy-guano p7, day before Rostrum was closed due to poopy birds.
6 parties below [12 climbers] and two parties above [4 climbers]. Also as you can see the pussy bolt next to me. Clip it? sure! Woot! [ BTW, it have nothing to do with the Woot-boy ] .
In a relatively short time since I started climbing in early 2000 -big changes happen. Previously almost empty 5.11 routes become crowded. A lot of new climbers doing Rostrum now willing to pull on gear hang dogging and aiding. Same with Astroboy, -only Harding slot works as gatekeeper so far but not for the long I would think. Hard new McDevitt route on Fifi- Voyager become instantly classic and there is constant zoo and pack of climbers waiting in line there.
I've seen climbers aid 1 pitch routes on Pat&Jack for hours to top-rope it later . And few of them is loud and obnoxious screaming something like this " I totally crashed this route"
In our morning sessions in gym I often see less people than here and it is more quiet.
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nathanael
climber
CA
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May 27, 2016 - 03:01pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Blame it on this (and some other similar climbing media being produced recently). Pro boulderer Nina Williams takes on the Rostrum as her first trad climb ever. Seeing a self-professed trad-noob making it look easy takes away some of the mystique and foreboding nature of the routes and inspires more people to get out and go for it. Which in many ways is great! (aside from the crowds) The one thing is that people conveniently ignore the fact that, unlike Nina, they don't climb V12 and 5.13, they don't have an experienced partner there to coach them through things and help manage risk, and it's probably not going to be as easy as she makes it look. ;)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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May 27, 2016 - 03:02pm PT
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Mei you got my 4-year nemesis at BIW first try that is glorious wow what's that you didn't even tie your shoes or use chalk wow I am so happy for you.
[Furiously scribbles in Feelings Journal: I hate that Mei.]
Kidding mostly kidding!
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 27, 2016 - 03:41pm PT
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There's just more people climbing, period. So of course it spills over to the popular harder climbs. Even in my ten years in California I've noticed the big uptick in climbers in the Valley--during all seasons. C4 seems to be packed all the time with a lot more boulders than there used to be.
Seems like in the future getting a solitary climbing experience will require you to either get good, walk a long ways, or embrace runout scary climbing.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2016 - 09:05pm PT
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Haha... le_bruce, you crack me up. I sometimes hate that Mei too. She gets to climb and have fun and I have to slave away in the office the rest of the week!
I'd blame the crowd at the crags on trip reports!
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