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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 6, 2016 - 10:53pm PT
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Warning: If you feel snarky about cracks in climbing gyms, this thread is not for you.
I'm posting to share the information I gathered about the wonderful cracks that Planet Granite Bay Area gyms have to offer. How wonderful? I did 52 crack climbs on Saturday in all three gyms without a repeat, from low angle to overhanging and from tight finger to full body chimney. There are a couple extra that I didn't touch. There have been some discussions on these cracks/gyms before, and hope these photos will provide some context when referenced. For people outside of the area, I just want to show off what we have for rainy days despite the insanely high cost of living here.
I heard good things about cracks in Planet Granite Portland gym too, and I'm sure there are interesting ones out there everywhere. Care to share a photo or two to show off your home gym? I even heard that some gym offered prize money for the first onsight of their hardest crack.
The description of the cracks can be found in a spreadsheet embedded on my blog post: http://www.mxi2000.net/mudworm/2016/03/a-climbers-guide-to-planet-granite-cracks . Search by Grigri number.
To avoid photobombing the thread, I'm posting only thumbnails. Again, for clickable thumbnails, please visit the above link.
01. 02. 03.
04. 05. 06.
07. 08. 09.
10. 11. 12.
13. 14. 15.
16. 17. 18.
19. 20.
P.S. Added a few new photos above.
P.P.S. If you do them all, that gives you 54 non-repeat pitches at avg 35' each. About 1700' total.
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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 6, 2016 - 10:58pm PT
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le_bruce, to answer your earlier question, I'm not a Touchstone member and have no idea what the cracks look like at Ironworks incl. the the rattly-fingers/tight-hands one. But I have no doubt that if you keep at it, you'll get it... this year!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Indoor cracks....one of the downsides of city life.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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one could probably swab enough DNA from those cracks to study if there is a genetic predisposition for crack climbing, and in particular, if there is a genetic trait that selects for O.W. behavior...
PSA: don't forget to wash your hands after working those cracks!
I tweaked my back after a very feeble attempts at "Gary's Crack" (93 on the SV crack wall image) and later the chimney (107 on the SV icebox wall image)... so my O.W. woes continue... on the other hand got lots of "lappage" in on the hand cracks, which is great training when you can't get outside...
we use "Bela's Rules" for IC training, you've got to do two consecutive laps on any hand crack you start... did that for a few hours on Saturday... saw Mei and Alexy on the Bay Area tour on the way out...
Mei's assertion that I was "indestructible" seems like a wish now... oh were it true.
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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2016 - 08:26am PT
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First thing I saw on my feed this morning.
These gyms allow me to meet other positive and fun adventurers during my much appreciated play time outside a day of intellectual work at the desk. They also allow me to walk up (or down) to beautiful rocks like this and send routes in good style without having to give up my job and life. What's not to love?
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unknown
climber
San Francisco
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Mar 23, 2016 - 12:52am PT
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Mei is amazing! Training works. Onsight on Twilight Zone for Mei, wohoo!
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 24, 2016 - 08:55pm PT
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What's that? Like a hundred feet? Pssh! PE's and PG Belmont's cracks got me up After Seven this last weekend, which is like SIX HUNDRED feet. So I'm not saying I'm six times the badass, but I'm also not not saying I'm six times the badass...
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 24, 2016 - 09:01pm PT
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The one time I walked through the one up here it was stacked to the gills with people but nary a one on any of the cracks. That and I noticed all the chalk stopped about twelve feet up.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 24, 2016 - 09:07pm PT
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Yep, never have to wait for a rope if you're there for the cracks. :D
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Mar 24, 2016 - 09:31pm PT
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Mei - as long as you're cataloguing Bay area gym cracks, there is a finger crack at City Beach that is pretty solid 5.11 and can be lead (yes, a bolted crack! cue the outrage!)
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Aya K
Trad climber
Boulder, CO!
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Mar 24, 2016 - 10:26pm PT
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Aw man... I worked at PG Sunnyvale back in 1999-2000 when the cracks there were first put up... practiced them a bunch, never got the offwidthy one. Credit that training for my ability to totes flash the cracks at the local gym here in Boulder after not climbing for over two years (and indoors for over ten) and impressing everyone when I moved here.
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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2016 - 10:47pm PT
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Sheesh, suddenly, I'm feeling some pressure.... and competition too???
Hmmm... never been to City Beach. Somehow, life seldom takes me there. [edit: thought it was in Santa Cruz, guess it's in Fremont.] Some day...
Look easy from there, so what are you saying exactly? ;) In almost all the gyms, the ropes for cracks usually serve face routes too and most of them are moderate. So, if you go at the busy time, you might still need to wait for ropes to get on cracks. I avoid busy times.
Aya, I believe you, but I'm still surprised to hear. I thought Boulder is where serious climbers live! (Lynn Hill lives there, doesn't she?)
Since this thread is revived, I'll link my trip report (in response to unknown's shoutout): Splashless Leap into Twilight Zone
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 24, 2016 - 11:06pm PT
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I'm just sayin' I'm a pretty big deal. ;)
And true about shared ropes-last time I was at Pacific Edge I spent the whole evening climbing face climbs like a goof with my hands all taped up waiting for the rope for hand crack to open. Somehow it always coincided with while I was belaying.
On the subject of Pacific Edge, off the top of my head:
-5.9 chimney
-5.12 fingers
-5.10 hands
-5.10 ow
-5.10(?) lieback
-adjustable angle crack gizmo in weight room with cracks from 1/2" to 3 1/2"
-some heinous, leaning, tips thing in the back boulder room
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 25, 2016 - 07:40am PT
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Gyms are filled with Human Dander and Human Feces and Piss, no thanks. From the Toilet to the holds, all gyms smell like funk.
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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2016 - 09:18am PT
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Jeff, I don't know what to say other than feeling sorry that you've been traumatized. I wonder if the same phobia would hinder you taking on multipitch/multi-day climbing where faucets and facilities are not available.
I do think it's a bad idea to get on the gym cracks without tape and have your hands all scratched up. I've heard of cases of infection even though gyms frequently spraying disinfectant to the cracks. I guess once you get a cut, you can pick up germs anywhere.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Mar 25, 2016 - 09:40am PT
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Poopy cracks, how nice.
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jeff constine
Trad climber
Ao Namao
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Mar 25, 2016 - 10:19am PT
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The sun kills everything outside, no problem. Indoors it just builds up in the Carpet Foam, that can never be cleaned, embedded into the flooring perma. All gyms stink, unless new, but a few months down the road, Smells like funk. Sorry I don't climb indoors ever, I have crags 10min from my place. No need for that scene indoors.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 25, 2016 - 10:19am PT
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Fortunately rats, squirrels, birds and bats are all much more considerate than humans about distancing their waste from our recreation, right?
Hands down the most disgusting climb I've ever done, indoors or out. The entire upper half of the face was glazed with rodent pee, every little ledge and crimp held crystallized pools of it. Unfortunately I didn't realize it until I was two pieces up. In hindsight I don't know why I even bothered to set the TR; should have rapped it and cleaned it myself, to save my friends the grossness.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Mar 25, 2016 - 06:26pm PT
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I'll pass on the poopy cracks and
Toilet holds!
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cotuclimber
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 25, 2016 - 07:56pm PT
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That's what chalk is for, moose. Outside people sh#t and piss right on the wall. Ever wanted to know why they called the route superslide? Now imagine poop flowing down a slabby crack, aided by a strong natural lubricant. Than, they continue climbing without washing their hands. Crazy right?
Don't go outdoors, stay in the gym.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 25, 2016 - 09:07pm PT
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Do these count? They're two days from the nearest gym if you get lucky with your flight.
Sorry for being snarky.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 25, 2016 - 09:13pm PT
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I see people going to the toilets wearing climbing shoes.
My gym has signs. Sometimes people still do it. I call people on it when I see them.
I've been gym climbing for four years, four+ times a week at my peak, never had a problem in spite of countless abrasions.
I also have 12 years and counting in EMS and worked in a hospital for seven years, so my grossness threshold is a bit higher than most.
Edit:
Sorry for being snarky. I don't believe you're sorry. ;)
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 25, 2016 - 09:37pm PT
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I don't believe in deleting but I do apologize for my post...it wasn't in keeping with the spirit of the thread.
Honest question....are gym cracks really a lot better now? It's been quite a while since I have been in a gym and a decade ago the gym cracks I sampled didn't feel anything at all like real cracks.
Mei, I really enjoyed your Twighlight Zone TR.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Mar 25, 2016 - 10:06pm PT
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I can't speak for anyone else, but I wasn't offended.
Re: natural vs. artificial cracks, they're not bad. They're not great either (they tend to be slicker, less featured, and less "crisp", if that makes sense), but they mimic well enough to provide practice for the real thing.
Full disclosure: I don't have much grounds for comparison; I've only been working gym cracks for the last two months.
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JC Marin
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 25, 2016 - 10:12pm PT
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What doesn't kill you makes you stronger...
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Mei
Trad climber
I'm back!
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2016 - 10:37pm PT
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Jim! Your open apology means a lot to me and speaks volume of your integrity and large character. I'm sending virtual hugs your way if you don't mind.
Gym climbing is not for everyone. I could not get the man I lived with for ten years to enjoy even one gym session! However, I attribute 100% of my progress on cracks, since I got back into climbing last year, to my crack sessions in the gym. Twilight Zone onsight was nice, but I was also happy to follow thin cracks like Red Zinger clean, formerly not deemed attainable. Feeling grateful for what I have access to and for what I have benefited from prompted me to share my post and stoke with others.
I've been to other gyms where cracks are nothing but two parallel edges. I'll do them, but they are not that much interesting. That said, plenty of Indian Creek cracks are nothing but two parallel edges too. Guess that's why many people call IC an outdoor gym. PG's cracks are unique in a way that many of them were hand crafted. And because there are so many, there is always challenge to be found, which makes it fun for me. If I had an OW dialed one way, I do it the completely wrong/retarded way just to make it challenging again. I've not graduated to inversion yet.
I honestly feel that if you see past the fact that the cracks are made of stucco, as far as the moves are concerned, there is no difference from climbing outside. And I've seen rock more abrasive outside and smoother outside as well, so the texture does not really set it apart.
I am just about to head out of the door to drive solo to Yosemite for a day trip. I have a cold, but I'm not going to pull the blanket from under my partner. So, watch out, germaphobics, here I come... to smear my cold germs on the wall, outdoor wall! Take that!
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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I've not graduated to inversion yet.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2016 - 09:19pm PT
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Yesterday, I went to Berkeley Ironworks first time to participate in the 90th Birthday Celebration for Allen Steck. He is a living legend and an inspiration. We watched the movie documenting the 3rd ascent (2nd continuous ascent) of Salathe Wall. Makes me want to climb it badly.
Anyway, also got to check out the three cracks at the gym. Did two laps each including the hand traverse. TR onsight. They are fun.
#1
#2
#3
Thanks to the germaphobics, I now am a lot more careful at the gyms, always washing my hands right after climbing and eating all my snacks holding the wrapper. Life is a little more complicated, but I can handle it.
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nathanael
climber
CA
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Been working on this one in Riverside. Not much success, it feels pretty hard for me, good finger locks but very slick feet. They also have a hand crack with a fun roof/overhang at the top.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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I could not get the man I lived with for ten years to enjoy even one gym session!
Maybe quit trying to change people?
Those cracks look pretty good gyms have changed a lot since I was last at one.
I love that Alexey picture...getting limbered up for some goose stepping.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2016 - 09:06am PT
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Overwatch prescribes:
Maybe quit trying to change people? Strange, what made you accuse I am trying to change anybody, let alone people, Mr. "Overwatch"?
nathanael, that's a good looking crack and looks challenging. The thin crack at Berkeley Ironworks also has slick feet. That just puts a higher demand on precise footwork.
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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I just inferred it when you said you couldn't get your roommate to go gym climbing implying that they didn't want to but you kept trying for 10 years.
My mistake I guess
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2016 - 11:47am PT
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overwatch clarifies:
I just inferred it when you said you couldn't get your roommate to go gym climbing implying that they didn't want to but you kept trying for 10 years.
My mistake I guess No worries. It is a natural inclination to form opinions based on inference. Everybody does that. But I've found many people here (not talking about you) tend to pass strong judgement based on their weak inferences and are quick to criticize, as if they have a need to feel superior. I don't visit many forums, but find that culture prevalent here these days. It's a shame because I like to share my passion (old and renewed) for climbing with others. I guess I'm not thick skinned enough because even after I wrote a trip report for Supertopo, I found myself hesitate to post here. Oh well. It's the writing process that I really needed.
Kudos to all who post stokes and positive vibes here!
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Kudos to all who post stokes and positive vibes here!
Don't want to get all Yin and Yang and s h i t but...
No offense intended just stirring the pot a little, I know how some women love 'fixer uppers'. Keeps your thread bumped and as I said , I got some new insight as to the state of the gym art these days.
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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May 17, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
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I've climbed gym cracks a lot since becoming surrounded by the urban jungle. They are better than nothing. I generally don't worry about what may be growing within, although I have had a few scratches that lingered longer than they should.
My main complaint is people standing at the urinal in their climbing shoes, but the guy standing at the urinal and eating a powerbar grossed me out the most.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 17, 2016 - 05:36pm PT
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Chill, I was long time curious to ask did we see each other in Sunnyvale gym?
Jaybro couple of years ago mentioned about this on Balch camp tread that we know each other.
I can not correspond anyone with the name "Chill", but probably I know you under your real name?
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chill
climber
The fat part of the bell-curve
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May 17, 2016 - 07:27pm PT
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Yes Alexey, we know each other from PG and have run into each in the valley. I think you also know my daughter, Sarah.
My name is Chris Hill, hence, "chill".
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 17, 2016 - 10:30pm PT
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this is what I was guessing. I met Sarah recently at Church Bowl with nice group of friends
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 27, 2016 - 02:23pm PT
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speaking of "Poopy cracks" in the gym
On photo below approaching poopy-guano p7, day before Rostrum was closed due to poopy birds.
6 parties below [12 climbers] and two parties above [4 climbers]. Also as you can see the pussy bolt next to me. Clip it? sure! Woot! [ BTW, it have nothing to do with the Woot-boy ] .
In a relatively short time since I started climbing in early 2000 -big changes happen. Previously almost empty 5.11 routes become crowded. A lot of new climbers doing Rostrum now willing to pull on gear hang dogging and aiding. Same with Astroboy, -only Harding slot works as gatekeeper so far but not for the long I would think. Hard new McDevitt route on Fifi- Voyager become instantly classic and there is constant zoo and pack of climbers waiting in line there.
I've seen climbers aid 1 pitch routes on Pat&Jack for hours to top-rope it later . And few of them is loud and obnoxious screaming something like this " I totally crashed this route"
In our morning sessions in gym I often see less people than here and it is more quiet.
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nathanael
climber
CA
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May 27, 2016 - 03:01pm PT
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[Click to View YouTube Video]
Blame it on this (and some other similar climbing media being produced recently). Pro boulderer Nina Williams takes on the Rostrum as her first trad climb ever. Seeing a self-professed trad-noob making it look easy takes away some of the mystique and foreboding nature of the routes and inspires more people to get out and go for it. Which in many ways is great! (aside from the crowds) The one thing is that people conveniently ignore the fact that, unlike Nina, they don't climb V12 and 5.13, they don't have an experienced partner there to coach them through things and help manage risk, and it's probably not going to be as easy as she makes it look. ;)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
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May 27, 2016 - 03:02pm PT
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Mei you got my 4-year nemesis at BIW first try that is glorious wow what's that you didn't even tie your shoes or use chalk wow I am so happy for you.
[Furiously scribbles in Feelings Journal: I hate that Mei.]
Kidding mostly kidding!
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 27, 2016 - 03:41pm PT
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There's just more people climbing, period. So of course it spills over to the popular harder climbs. Even in my ten years in California I've noticed the big uptick in climbers in the Valley--during all seasons. C4 seems to be packed all the time with a lot more boulders than there used to be.
Seems like in the future getting a solitary climbing experience will require you to either get good, walk a long ways, or embrace runout scary climbing.
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 28, 2016 - 09:05pm PT
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Haha... le_bruce, you crack me up. I sometimes hate that Mei too. She gets to climb and have fun and I have to slave away in the office the rest of the week!
I'd blame the crowd at the crags on trip reports!
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