Yosemite Peregrine Closures (2016)

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ClimbingRanger

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 28, 2016 - 08:21pm PT
All,

It's that time again, Peregrine closures kick in on March 1st. Check it out and spread the word to protect these amazing birds.

Arch Rock Area – Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exceptions: routes west of and including Later and northeast of and including Juliette’s Flake remain open.
B.O.L.T. Wall – Immediately southwest of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on the B.O.L.T. Wall.
El Capitan, Southeast Face – Closure includes all big wall routes between and including New Dawn, Reticent Wall, Wall of Early Morning Light, and Mescalito. The first 10 pitches of the closed routes, from the base of El Capitan, remain open.
El Capitan, Southwest Face – Closure includes all routes between and including Aquarian Wall east to Cosmos. The closure also includes the portion of the Thanksgiving Ledge between Aquarian Wall to Cosmos. All other portions of the Thanksgiving Ledge and the first 5 pitches of the closed routes from the base remain open. The Salathe Wall remains open.
Fairview Dome, West Face – Tuolumne. Closure includes all routes between and including Heart of Stone to Lucky Streaks. All other routes remain open.
Half Dome, Northwest Face – The route Queen of Spades is closed. All other routes remain open.
Hetch Hetchy – Closed area includes Wapama Cliff (immediately west of Wapama Falls).
Lost Arrow Spire – Closure includes all routes on Lost Arrow Spire (Lost Arrow Spire Direct, Lost Arrow Tip, and Lost Arrow Spire Chimney). Slacklining is prohibited at the summit and the top of the adjacent cliff.
Medlicott Dome – Tuolumne. Closure includes all routes between and including Shambles to Bogey Meets Mr. Porcupine.
Rhombus Wall – Above Ahwahnee Meadow. Closure includes all routes west of Super Slide to the Ahwahnee Ramps, including all routes on the Rhombus Wall.
The Rostrum – Lower Merced Canyon. Closure includes climbing routes on all sides of the Rostrum formation. Super Nova and the Jungle Gym area remain open. Slack-lining is prohibited at the summit and the top of the adjacent cliff.
Yosemite Point – Closure includes all routes between and including Yosemite Point Buttress and Yosemite Point Southwest Face, Min-Ne-Ah. At the base, the first 5 pitches remain open.

You can also find closure information and updates at the Yosemite Climbing Information website.
http://www.climbingyosemite.com/2016-peregrine-closures-03012016/

Here is a link to the NPS website for further information.
http://www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm

The temps have been perfect for climbing in the valley and the snow is melting fast.

Climb hard, be safe, see you out there (except for the areas that are closed)

Brandon Latham
Yosemite Climbing Ranger
cotuclimber

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 28, 2016 - 11:28pm PT
Good to know the Rostrum will be closed to everyone, not only those from the east side.
Escopeta

Trad climber
Idaho
Feb 29, 2016 - 06:24am PT
The website states:

The following areas are closed to visitor use, including climbing activities, beginning March 1, 2016 and remaining in effect until July 15, 2016, or until further notice:
overwatch

climber
Arizona
Feb 29, 2016 - 06:36am PT
Good to know the Rostrum will be closed to everyone, not only those from the east side.

^^^^^ I don't know what that means but I don't know why anyone would want to be on the same cliff with nesting birds they are no joke. I have had several incidents where I just accidentally came into an area where birds were nesting. one time a Peregrin took about three passes, rocketing past my head as I instinctively crouched down and covered up.

I stood up and threw caution to the wind and ran as fast as I could, the nape of my neck prickled like chicken skin, waiting for the talons to find their target. after running about a hundred yards I turned back to look and it was sitting on the branch of a tree watching me, apparently satisfied at running me out of town.

I had a similar incident with hawks where one of the pair circle just a couple of feet over my head and it seemed to me like it was trying to get behind me. I was on top of a flat rocky Mesa and there were only a few stunted trees about. I ran to and huddled up close to one, trying to take away my blind spot from the rear. I could see where the pair were nesting and I was still several hundred yards away, they seem to get very protective.

The bird flew around over my head for a while until eventually I did the same thing as before threw caution to the wind and sprinted away. It seems that the self humiliation exhibited by fleeing like a little girl is enough for them.
Escopeta

Trad climber
Idaho
Feb 29, 2016 - 07:24am PT
And then they generally chill and let you go about your business....
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 29, 2016 - 07:30am PT
I've been bonked - for an old football player it was just a dope slap.
WBraun

climber
Feb 29, 2016 - 07:31am PT
why anyone would want to be on the same cliff with nesting birds

Depends on the birds.

I've been on walls in Mali Africa and they didn't even care at all.

They flew all around and did nothing.

Even the nesting huge condor on the summit did not care when I came within a couple of feet of it nesting in it's nest.

But peregrine will attack when I got within 10 feet of the nest.

I used to work with the peregrine people years ago in Yosemite taking the fragile eggs from the nests and replacing with fake eggs and later returning with the hatch chicks.
overwatch

climber
Arizona
Feb 29, 2016 - 08:05am PT
interesting stuff people thank you for the responses.

what is interesting to me is the visceral instinctive response when being threatened by an animal. I have had multiple incidents over the years in the outdoors and my response has always been roughly the same...flee! I did boot the s h i t out of a dog's guts one time, after being bit trying to break up a dogfight

Edit:

even with the size distortion associated with tracks in snow, it is crazy how big that thing is
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 29, 2016 - 08:30am PT
Don't bother fleeing from this guy - you'll just die tired...

JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Feb 29, 2016 - 11:02am PT
Thanks for the info, Brandon. I particularly appreciate that the Park Service keeps the restrictions to a reasonable minimum, meaning that they really seem confined to where the raptors are most likely nesting, rather than all the places where the raptors could be nesting.

John
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Mar 1, 2016 - 08:58am PT
Thanks Brandon, for our help in protecting these wonderful birds with whom climbers share the cliffs and walls.
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Mar 1, 2016 - 09:07am PT
The Falcons nest right on the cliff at the top of the Mist Trail. Maybe 75 feet from the trail. That is much closer to the nest than a good deal of the routes on closed cliffs. Wouldn't it be logical to close the Mist Trail as well?
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Mar 1, 2016 - 09:11am PT
Hey Wait! Delaware North owns those birds! They took them too!!!!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Mar 1, 2016 - 09:18am PT
Brandon
I'm just curious--do you know how many birds fledged last year?
They certainly are amazing birds.
We have a few in the Front Range of Cowlowrado too!
Thanks!
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Mar 17, 2016 - 02:08pm PT
The wording of the Rhombus Wall closure ("Closure includes all routes west of Super Slide" [emphasis added]) and some digging here indicate it's still open, but I'd appreciate an official confirmation on Super Slide's status. I don't want to be "that guy" this weekend.
Highlife

Trad climber
California
Apr 30, 2016 - 09:09am PT
http://www.climbingyosemite.com/peregrine-closure-update-42516/

Some closures have been lifted/adjusted
ClimbingRanger

Trad climber
Yosemite, CA
Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2016 - 05:08pm PT
Peregrine Closures have been updated to reflect the birds current status! The new closure notice's are circulating the web:

**Area Protection – Peregrine Nesting Areas

April 25, 2016**

The Peregrine Falcon is a fully protected species in California and a special status species in Yosemite due to its sensitivity to disturbance during the nesting season. To protect this species, the Superintendent of Yosemite National Park is designating Peregrine Falcon nesting cliffs as areas closed to visitor use, including climbing and slack-lining activities, until Peregrine Falcon chicks have fledged and dispersed from those areas in 2016. By order of the Superintendent of Yosemite National Park and under authority of Title 36, Code of Federal Regulations, Section 1.5(a) and Section (a)(1): The following areas are closed to visitor use, including climbing activities, beginning March 1, 2016 and remaining in effect until July 15, 2016, or until further notice:

B.O.L.T. Wall – Immediately southwest of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on the B.O.L.T.
El Capitan, Southeast Face – Closure includes all big wall routes between and including New Dawn, Reticent Wall, Wall of Early Morning Light, and Mescalito. The first 10 pitches of the closed routes, from the base of El Capitan, remain open.
Fairview Dome, West Face – Tuolumne. Closure includes all routes between and including Heart of Stone to Lucky Streaks. All other routes remain open.
Hetch Hetchy – Closed area includes Wapama Cliff (immediately west of Wapama Falls).
Medlicott Dome – Tuolumne. Closure includes all routes between and including Shambles to Bogey Meets Mr. Porcupine.
Rhombus Wall – Above Ahwahnee Meadow. Closure includes all routes west of Super Slide to the Ahwahnee Ramps, including all routes on the Rhombus Wall.
The Rostrum – Lower Merced Canyon. Closure includes climbing routes on all sides of the Rostrum formation. Super Nova and the Jungle Gym area remain open. Slack-lining is prohibited at the summit and the top of the adjacent cliff.

Effective as of April 25, 2016 (in addition to closures listed above):

Arch Rock Area – Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes from Anticipation east to Grokin, Arch Rock Pinnacle, and above Arch Rock’s main wall, from Cross Country Crack east to but not including Juliette’s Flake. All routes from Pass or Fail west including Now, Omakara and Later remain open.
Mt. Broderick – Closed area includes east facing cliff.

Closures are LIFTED at El Capitan Southwest Face, Half Dome Northwest Face, Lost Arrow Spire, and Yosemite Point.

Nest sites will be monitored to provide current information on nesting status and to ensure prompt re-opening of these areas. Closures are subject to change based on current nesting status. Your cooperation in complying with these temporary restrictions is greatly appreciated.

The designation will remain in place until rescinded.


Thank you all for spreading the word on closures.

'looks easy from here' - Superslide is open. Thanks for checking!

'SteveW' - check out the 2015 peregrine report

'Highlife' thanks for posting up the link to the update above.

Spring temps are perfect right now in the Valley. Thunderstorms have been rolling through every couple of days, but overall it's a great time to be up here!

See you all on the wall.

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