Castle Rock Spire

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Thekitkatwalrus

Trad climber
west covina
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 12, 2016 - 11:13am PT
Hello all,

I'm planning to attempt to climb Castle Rock Spire in June. I'm going to go check out the approach in two weeks, I know about the PO and snakes and hazards and all that good stuff just wondering if anyone has any tips or information that would be useful. Plan to do a few recon trips to get the best route.

Thanks.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Feb 12, 2016 - 11:15am PT
You forgot to include bears in the list of hazards. Otherwise, nothing useful to add.

John
Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Feb 12, 2016 - 11:37am PT
Cool! Depending on when you want to go, I'm up for a recon trip up there! Its perfect right now.......for hiking up there. Still a little wet otherwise. I'm assuming your thinking about the bottom approach?
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Feb 12, 2016 - 12:13pm PT
Go from Atwell Ranger Station. Way less elevation gain and no poison oak.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Feb 12, 2016 - 12:17pm PT
Agree with Levy, but if you want to do the lower approach take Radish up on his offer! Nobody knows it better than him.

Which route do you plan on climbing?
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 12, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
Recon.... hell- just grab your stuff and go....

You know there is a giant thread somewhere on the Taco....





Go get it!

Thekitkatwalrus

Trad climber
west covina
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2016 - 04:49pm PT
I was thinking about the top approach but I read you have to rap to the base of the spire? Also it may sound crazy but I like the adventure and bullshit that comes along with the approach, makes for an awesome experience.

Yeah radish! Bottom approach, I'm 100% going to go In two weeks the weekend of the 26th.

Wanting to do the east face route
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Feb 12, 2016 - 05:45pm PT
Am not sure how much useful beta Vitaliy's TR has:

http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Castle-Rock-Spire-FFA-of-the-Direct-East-Face-III-5-11Burly/t12720n.html

he does write:

Few reasons why I think this route will become the new standard way up the CRS:

The approach does not involve much bushwhacking, poison oak or difficult route finding!
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Feb 12, 2016 - 05:51pm PT
Ticks. Tuck your pant legs and shirt in.

Enjoy! Special place up there.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 13, 2016 - 04:01pm PT
A friend did the regular route and the east face in one trip. Said he liked the climbing itself a lot more on the east face. Said they thought the cruxes were similar in difficulty. 11+. My initial 11b rating was a bit of a sandbag, not because I wanted to sandbag, but I was not confident I can onsight 11+ on a first free attempt of a route. Doing some time in indian creek before likely helped me have better fitness than usual. Easy to pull through the cruxes and things protect well in general. Got to go for it to free the crux sections free. Steep and exciting! Awesome route! Original Salathe bolts are just right of the 2nd pitch. Cool stuff all around.
Anyway, it is an awesome formation!!! Like visiting a museum.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Feb 13, 2016 - 10:01pm PT
Updated the mountainproject page to include the free variation, I forgot to do that last year.

I'll give you $100 if you free the original second pitch of the east face :)
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Feb 15, 2016 - 03:32pm PT
Looked into the gulley on Saturday, if you go in two weeks bring something to get up some ice!
ec

climber
ca
Feb 20, 2016 - 06:06pm PT
It is not required to rap to access the Spire via the upper approach. Just scramble down the gully from the top of the Fin. Been there, done it, plus exit.

 ec
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Feb 20, 2016 - 06:20pm PT
+1 for what EC said. You will scramble out using that gully. It is 3rd class with good route finding. Rapping does make the descent go faster, I think. Be careful with a few spots of loose rock if you do rap. Pulling rope or rapelling above an unroped partner has to be done with caution. I was almost taken out there by a large rock.
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Feb 20, 2016 - 10:04pm PT
For the lower approach I found it very helpful to drive up to one of the higher lookouts on the way up to Moro Rock. Scope it with binocs. Of course you can't see the trail, but you will get the lay of the land and you can figure where the trail goes. It's good to have the big picture before you jump into the woods.

I did this and we nailed the approach with no missteps.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
Apr 3, 2017 - 08:34am PT
Invalid two ascents without trip reports
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 3, 2017 - 08:50am PT
RF..... way to go.

What did you climb on the Fin?

EDIT: Oh I see.

go in the Bottom or the Top?



guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 3, 2017 - 09:05am PT
Where did you guys Bivi??

And for the record, Mark Powell said he climbed CRS in a 3 day weekend.... hike in, set some fixed lines, climb it on day 2, hike out-drive home day 3.

Once you know the way, its pretty straight forward.

So with V moving to Visalia, when are we going to get a C to C?????


Send

Trad climber
Central Sierra
Apr 3, 2017 - 10:07am PT
Me and a buddy were the other party to ascend CRS in 2017. Did it a couple weeks ago. 7 hrs in, didn't find old trail. Swimming in some shwack!
Climbed day 2 and a kinda cruiser 3.5 hrs on the old trail/way out. Posted some porn pics on mtnproj.

Go suffer, be rewarded.

Radish

Trad climber
SeKi, California
Apr 3, 2017 - 11:04am PT
Two Parties in Two Weeks! Getting busy up there. Interesting to hear that the Spire only had One Ascent all last year and the party climbed the Spire Twice by 2 different routes....Regular Route and the East Face. Its a Most Heinous Approach that keeps things wild out there!
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