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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Munge, why worry about it if you are not fit right now? Work your way up, get in shape and then try a few routes. There are definitely a couple of routes in the vicinity that might be good to try first, but they are not "easy", they are still 5.13. They might have big holds, but not the whole way up and they will also be very pumpy to the point where you have to force yourself mentally to not let go when you think you can barely hold on. In the end, it's a good idea to just spend a day and go try one, see how many moves you can do and what you need to work on to be able to redpoint one. Here are some that I think are more manageable in the sense that the individual moves aren't too hard or they are not that sustained (all are 13a):
Fugitive, Jailhouse - mostly huge jugs, but very overhanging and with big dynos in between. Lots of rests, but still extremely pumpy. Hardest move maybe V4 or 5, but lots of them on the route.
Who moved the stone, Goldwall - V6ish awkward boulder problem on chipped holds, relatively easy second 1/2. Kind of shitty, but doesn't make you that tired since the crux is down low.
Warp Factor, Donner - short, power endurance, consistent V3-V4 moves with no rest for 50 ft. Hardest move no harder than V4.
Slim Pickens, Donner - 2-3 move boulder problem on decent edges off a good rest (knee bar). Some crack climbing involved.
Naked and Disfigured, Mickey's - easy first 1/2. Then a couple V4ish moves back to back to back, then big holds that are far appart. Heartbreaker last move. Hard to put it all together, but fun to try.
Desperate Kneed, Lost world - almost vertical and not that pumpy. About 12a or b to the last bolt, then a tricky sequential boulder problem on very shitty feet (or knee). Might be a really good route to try for someone who's not very strong, but has great technique. All rests are great - you can just stand on your feet.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Yes it is. Some people used to chip holds on 5.13
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MattB
Trad climber
Tucson
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Juggy at the top, not so much below. I think it's v2 to v3 to v4, or something like that... just climb what you can, work a few harder problems, bouldering is good for exploring limits.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
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For the folks that know me, I'm really a "any day on stone is a great day if we all come back healthy" kind of guy, but getting my second in my life soft tissue injury that prevented climbing for a long time, you get some good perspective.
Some real nice, real responses, and some good hilarity. :)
Thx Impaler, some good routes to think about there while I work up the fitness and rehab the shoulder. I'd pass on anything chipped, but Desperate Kneed sounds really intriguing.
Got my eye on a steep granite hard project once the snow melts up on SPH.
Keep your stoke up!
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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5.12 = V4
5.13 = V7
5.14 = V11
5.15 = V14+
Works for sport routes mainly. Go bouldering. Try a few 3 move V7s and see if you can do the moves. If so 5.13 is most likely attainable with enough fitness.
Wow, sounds easy! I've pulled a fews moves on some V7s! I am on my way.
But seriously, good post.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Mungie, get yourself out to Maple, grades so soft you don't need a rope ;)
But seriously, the closest you'll ever get to those juggy gym .13s.
As for the bigger number question, not much to add, different places, different styles, means I don't invest a lot of rhought into it.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Got my eye on a steep granite hard project once the snow melts up on SPH.
Take me along brah. I need a hard single pitch project, somewhere near by... I guess I sort of screwed up the opportunity to get with the program and climb at Goldwall this winter in favor of ice/more mixed.
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Spiny Norman
Social climber
Boring, Oregon
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Since I've never led anything harder than 12– sport (with many many falls), I'm definitely not qualified to pass judgement on the original question.
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eeyonkee
Trad climber
Golden, CO
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Some days I think "yes", others "no". I think I'm missing context.
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RyanD
climber
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5.12 = V4
5.13 = V7
5.14 = V11
5.15 = V14+
Works for sport routes mainly. Go bouldering. Try a few 3 move V7s and see if you can do the moves. If so 5.13 is most likely attainable with enough fitness.
^^^
This is good tips.
You probably need to consider what your strengths are in climbing and find the route that suits you.
Myself, I know I'll do better on routes that are at my limit that have bouldery or technical cruxes because I am more experienced bouldering than I am on routes with endurance cruxes. I don't avoid either type of routes and generally just try and climb on the nicest looking lines on the most perfect rock- but knowing where my strengths are helps me decide what to climb and when. As well it helps me to know how much time to invest on a particular climb before it goes on the project shelf marked "come back when you are more fit, powerful, stronger fingers, skinnier, grown up, etc.".
I'm not chasing grades these days though(no grades in our gym) :-D
I'd say put a rope down a few different ones and check out the moves and see what gets you psyched, then get strong for that route based on how it climbs and commit to the prajjjjjjjjjikt !!!
Find one that is easy to work, by yourself if possible. Dog the sh#t out of it. Break it into moves/sequences/sections then start taking red point burns. The process could take some time but enjoy the progress as it comes, and goes lol. Stick with it, rest lots, have fun.
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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jgill
Boulder climber
The high prairie of southern Colorado
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Years ago 5.13 was considered V9, like my hold-eliminate problem (1959) on Red Cross Rock at Jenny Lake. Using all holds available it was V7 by consensus. The V-ratings were applied much later than the initial ascent.
Historical tidbit: In the mid 1950s Chouinard told me that many of the CA climbs rated 5.9 were actually climbs consisting of a linked series of 5.8 moves.
Just proves my point that you have to climb in your own period and not compare across the bridge of time.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2016 - 08:57pm PT
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Exactly! That's why I avoid 5.9+ like the plague. :)
Trashman, you're onto something there. Maple!
Vittles, after the thaw, LW is on.
May try some slab Sunday if the shoulder holds up.
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