Petzel Mini Traxion for TR soloing

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 44 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Nov 6, 2006 - 12:06am PT
I have always used the soloist, thinking of going to the mini-traxion though.
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2006 - 12:46am PT
"I have always used the soloist, thinking of going to the mini-traxion though"...

I used mine right up until it was suggested on this forum to use the Mini Traxion...Bought it, tried it, loved it...

works like a charm...

and it has cool, sharp teeth to boot!!!...

steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 6, 2006 - 08:46am PT
I sometimes use a Microscender...from back when it was made by Rock Exotica, now made by Petzl.



It has a machined cam interface and it's probably easier on the rope over the long haul. Always runs smooth. But the mini seems to work well also.
pyro

Social climber
I'm not telling,
Nov 6, 2006 - 04:38pm PT
Grigri works. teeth will snip the rope
bobmarley

Trad climber
auburn, california
Nov 10, 2006 - 09:06pm PT
what about a traxion with a tibloc backup (tibloc extended with a sling running below your harness)? i've seen some tahoe climbers using that technique and it seems pretty bomber.

also, what about a static over a dynamic? seems like the static would handle the teeth a little better than the dynamic.
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Nov 10, 2006 - 09:45pm PT
bobmarley:

A Tibloc as a backup would be better than nothing, but definitely nowhere near as bomber as another Mini-Traxion as a backup. The Tibloc is not designed to hold without manually placing it on the rope and tensioning it. It could slip as a backup, especially with the upper Mini-Traxion that may have failed sliding down the rope onto it. I personally feel that a static rope would be a particularly bad idea. Any shock loads possible, including potential damage to a rope from cam teeth would be wildly accelerated with a non-dynamic rope. I also think that static ropes increase danger in climbing, period. I use a Yates Screamer (or equivalent) on my rope just in case I fall near the anchor, because there is so little dynamic rope out to absorb the force of any fall. A static rope would just be a disaster. I have also found that the older a rope gets, the more static it gets. Don't let them get old! Hope this information helps!
bobmarley

Trad climber
auburn, california
Nov 14, 2006 - 11:13am PT
tried out the traxion w/ tibloc backup this weekend. felt like i was fumbling around with the tibloc on backup. kept thinking about both devices slipping and couldn't commit to falling on hard moves. perhaps 2 traxions is best. also noticed in the latest climbing (#235 pg 79) they suggest a setup of one traxion while clipping occasional backup loops on the other side of the rope. i guess the downside would be having to clip the loops while climbing.
WBraun

climber
Nov 14, 2006 - 12:26pm PT
" ...seems like the static would handle the teeth a little better than the dynamic."

Yes ....

Fall onto the damn thing, don't be timid.
Sewellymon

climber
.....in a single wide......
Nov 14, 2006 - 01:18pm PT
i would guess the guys in yosemite using the mini trax are NOT using the climbing ragazine approved "one rope w/ traxion while clipping occasional backup loops on the other side of the rope"?

i use a soloist. tie backup knots on the rope to catch my upsidedown fall (has not happened yet), but don't use a 2nd rope w/ backup knots because it seems like a pain. but i am 100% dependant on the 9mm that attached soloist to harness. should be fine for TR'ing, but no redundancy in the system...
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2006 - 04:31pm PT
I fall using the Mini Traxion and don't worry about it cutting the rope or failing... and it doesn't... I do however... and I can "fail" trusting my "mini traxion" on routes well above my grade...


"also noticed in the latest climbing (#235 pg 79)"...

interesting...so it is "catching" on... (Pun intended on the "Catching"...)...
Dingus Milktoast

climber
NorCal
Nov 14, 2006 - 04:50pm PT
"The Tibloc is not designed to hold without manually placing it on the rope and tensioning it. It could slip as a backup, especially with the upper Mini-Traxion that may have failed sliding down the rope onto it."

Why would you put the tibloc BELOW the trax? Reckon I don't get that. Put it on the rope above the trax with a sling to your harness. That way the trax pushes the trinket up the rope as you climb but if the trax fails to engage, the sling tightens and viola, the tibloc shreds your rope! *just kidding*

Seriously, I'd put the tibloc above the trax (unless I'm overlooking something obvious). I've only used mine a few times but I'm inclined to continue locker's approach, no backup, restrict to routes I won't be constantly whipping from (5.5 or so)

Cheers
DMT
Cuckawalla

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Nov 21, 2006 - 12:10am PT
How many people use the mini TRaxion and actually use back up nots? if you are working a one pitch route over and over seems a pain, though of course its your life at stake. Just wondering how many people trust it enough to forget the back ups.
WBraun

climber
Nov 21, 2006 - 12:12am PT
I just use one mini-traxion and no back up knots, nothing man.

You trying trying to scare me or something?
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Nov 21, 2006 - 12:18am PT
I use TWO Mini-Traxions, one on my belay loop with a DMM Belay-Master carabiner, one on a half-runner girth-hitched to my harness. I agree, using a separate rope with backup loops would be a massive pain. Sure, two Minis are more hassle than one, but just barely...and there is simply no way that two of these fine units are going to simultaneously fail. But hey, I do bow down to Werner; makes me feel REALLY safe knowing that he uses only one!
Cuckawalla

Trad climber
Grand Junction, CO
Nov 21, 2006 - 12:46am PT
no not trying to scare you, trying to validate it in my own head. Going out tomorrow and all I have is a solo-aid. Might buy a trax so I can work the route after I establish it. on harder routes you cant fiddle with back ups. If I heard it on supertaco must be legit!!
WBraun

climber
Nov 21, 2006 - 12:49am PT
Oh don't listen to me, I'm nuts. Kauk and Potter both use two mini-traxions, and it makes sense to be safe.
Mimi

climber
Nov 21, 2006 - 01:42am PT
Werner, you are a wild and crazy guy! Never known to flail.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Nov 21, 2006 - 11:52am PT
I asked an avid soloer why they don't use a ProTraxion instead of the Mini. The Pro has a nice berring which lets the rope glide better and I think the Pro has a higher load rating, although both seem to have the same cam mechanism.

The answer I got was that the Pro is too bulky, for when you want your hips close to the rock, etc. But since this is what I have, I'll be using the Pro...

Another buddy of mine attaches the Mini to his doughnut and then supports it up by his stomach by attaching a sling to it which he hangs around his neck. This looked really good, less slack to take up before the gizmo engages in a fall.
locker

Trad climber
Joshua Tree Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2006 - 02:29pm PT
I use a Single Mini Traxion NO back up knots or any other form of backup...

I TR solo often above my limit and do not fear falling knowing that little sucker will catch me...

as I have written before...

I use a DEDICATED rope for TR soloing exclusively...

and to make sure it is a good and safe one...

I ALWAYS use one of my RETIRED ropes...

wouldn't want to tear up a new one now would ya???...
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Oct 18, 2007 - 03:48pm PT
I've recently switched to doing my solo TR stuff on a mini-trax rig and thought I'd add my $0.02

My prior set-ups were Silent Partner (major PITA for this application, works well for other things though), Gri-gri, modified grigri, soloist.

My set up goes like this: A mini-trax on a small locker clipped to the donut. A 4" sewn sling girthed to the donut and connected to a pro-trax below the mini as a backup device. Then I take a loop of elastic shock-cord, girth it through the clip-in hole in the mini and wear it around my neck and over one arm bandolier style with a slight tension on the shock cord (enough to keep it upright even when I'm hunched over.

Feeds super smooth, and the shock cord keeps the device upright/higher up so it engages more quickly, feeds smoother, and doesn't bang into the backup pro-trax.

The modified gri-gri runs a close second and would be my choice for solo leading, but doesn't feed smooth enough for my liking.

I've ripped onto this rig repeatedly and the teeth aspect of the traxions seem like a non-issue. My ropes are getting more shralped from rubbing the rock near the anchors..the traxions don't seem affect them at all.

If I had the pro deal or was wealthy I'd run two minis, as the pro is a little bulky for this application, but I already owned a protrax, and don't notice it when I'm climbing.

I don't run backup knots or a second rope or any of that business, the backup traxion is plenty enough backup for me.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 44 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews