Discussion Topic |
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Ewats9
Gym climber
Amsterdam
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 23, 2016 - 12:47am PT
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When's TC and KJ's dawn wall free climb documentary going to be released? I can't find anything. At the end of Reel Rock 10, it just says "... is coming... by Patagonia". Thanks.
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RyanD
climber
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Jan 23, 2016 - 08:43am PT
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Oh you don't know what happened?
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Mei
Trad climber
mxi2000.net
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Aug 20, 2018 - 07:23pm PT
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"The Dawn Wall" film might be screening on Sept 19 in a theater near you: https://www.fathomevents.com/events/the-dawn-wall
They had a pre-screening in SF one night in June. I went with a low expectation because between paperback and audible version, I read Tommy Caldwell's The Push three times. Thought I'd be bored. Watching the film turned out to be a great experience. I heard similar feedback from my friends as well. The film kept the full theater engaged the whole night. Don't miss it!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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Aug 21, 2018 - 11:23am PT
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Watch it and shiver.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Aug 21, 2018 - 11:55pm PT
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Ondra is a beast.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 22, 2018 - 04:25am PT
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Poor Adam - crushes the thing in short order and all he gets is a lame slideshow.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Aug 22, 2018 - 06:55am PT
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But a timely slideshow. Loved all the footage of him in real time. 3.5 years later it’s hard to get excited for a human interest story with climbing vignettes interspersed.
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Modesto Mutant
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Sep 10, 2018 - 08:32pm PT
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It's showing at the Regal Theater here in Santa Cruz on September 19th.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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Sep 10, 2018 - 08:57pm PT
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Ondra is a beast.
More like a gecko.
In 2016, I watched Adam climb one of the crux sections from about twenty feet away. There were basically no holds, finger cracks or anything like that. It was just a vertical flared corner, which he somehow managed to stem and counter-pressure his way up.
Heinz Zak was up there filming at the same time.
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crusher
climber
Santa Monica, CA
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Sep 17, 2018 - 12:08pm PT
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Saw it yesterday, great film. We had a nice Q & A with the film makers after the screening.
For those of you in West L.A., it'll be at the Laemmle Santa Monica I believe for the rest of this week.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Sep 19, 2018 - 09:27pm PT
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It was definitely good. I’m kind of bummed I went in having already viewed every last spoiler over the years. The film did such a good job putting it all together, but I always knew what was going to happen next.
I just looked - can you believe that little kid just turned 40?!?!!!
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Matt Sarad
climber
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Sep 19, 2018 - 09:30pm PT
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Bakersfield was packed. It did much better than Grateful Dead at the movies night.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 19, 2018 - 10:26pm PT
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just got back from the showing in Redwood City...
liked it a lot, probably is more a biography of Timmy with the Dawn Wall as the acme, it will be interesting to see what comes next.
loosing his phone off the wall was a good portent...
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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Sep 19, 2018 - 11:07pm PT
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Just saw it too. I liked it. The phone thing was funny and don't blame him. I also liked the last addition. Wish it wasn't just in a random movie theatre and more interactive but whatever.
S.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
West Los Angeles, CA/Joshua Tree
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Sep 20, 2018 - 12:31am PT
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I saw it in Santa Monica on Sunday. It's playing in NY and LA for a week, presumably for a potential Best Docu Oscar consideration (rules are a film has to play in theaters for one week to be eligible)
Josh Lowell and Peter Mortimer did a 20 minute Q&A after our showing. When we arrived Tommy was outside signing Dawn Wall poster autographs for people from the show ahead of us and taking pics with fans. He was supposed to make it back for the Q&A after our showing but got delayed due to a 5pm appearance at the nearby Patagonia store that ran long.
It was well made. Albeit uneventful because of all the media coverage that surrounded it and media appearances they did we already knew the story inside and out. It's been three years since their feat. I think Alex's Free Solo will do better as its more current. Just won the audience favorite docu award at TIFF and it's more of a simple story. A guy and his dream of taking on the death-defying task of climbing El Cap without a rope. That's something people can process. Dawn Wall was more for people with climbing knowledge or interest.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Sep 20, 2018 - 12:48am PT
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hey there say, all... thanks for all the shares, on this...
good to know so many got a chance to get out there to see it--as the pre-show...
:)
thanks for the heads-up, chris, there, too...
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Sep 20, 2018 - 06:43am PT
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Sold out in South Reno. ( i was watching winnie the pooh with the kid). South Reno is the most yuppified herd i've ever witnessed
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Sep 20, 2018 - 07:37am PT
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Saw it last night in SLC. I thought it was interesting that they didn't mention anything about Harding, Mescalito, or previous history of the WEML, including the media circus in 1970. They made it sound like this was the first time this wall had ever been climbed.
That said it was a wonderful film. As Ed said, more of a story of Tommy's life. I loved the way he spoke of having a goal and the importance of the process. And the commitment to Keven and their partnership was really moving.
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Meech
Trad climber
PHX and SLC
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Sep 20, 2018 - 07:45am PT
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Also saw it last night in SLC. I just couldn't believe some of the shots the filmmakers were able to achieve. They really did the climb, and the emotional journey a lot of justice.
Also my hands did not stop sweating for almost 2 hours. I didn't follow the story that closely, so I wasn't aware how long it took Kevin to send the traverse. SO INTENSE!!!
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Sep 20, 2018 - 08:27am PT
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I was dragged to see it last night. I didn't expect much. Extreme sport movies bore me to tears. Banff film festival, reelrock, those things are so lame, a bunch of "Hey, look how rad I am" films.
This one was really good, quite excellent. The crowd cheered when Jorgeson got through the traverse, and also the dyno move.
Could have done without the post movie bit telling us what a great movie it was, though.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Sep 20, 2018 - 08:59am PT
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Harding, Mescalito, or previous history of the WEML The story was complicated enough.
Really - these events and lines on El Cap are entirely unrelated. Tommy linked up his own features and overall line. He shared some cracks here and there, whatever, but he didn't care about where any of them started or ended, only if he could free climb them.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 20, 2018 - 09:44am PT
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Couldn't ask for anything more.
Sure you could, one pitch out of how many?
For every cinephile looking for a true film, bored to tears by all the action, there’s a dirtbag who’s had their fill daddy issues/Kryzygstan/finger chop/B&T/false drama(Will Kevin Make It?) and just wants to see exactly what doing all those pitches in a push looked like.
I’m glad the former finally got the film they were looking for, I just wish it weren’t at the expense of the latter when it comes to the the most significant ElCap free ascent of the last decade.
Here’s hoping Heinz Zak will make something like that for us Neanderthals with his Ondra footage.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Colorado & Nepal
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Sep 20, 2018 - 11:48am PT
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I saw it in Boulder last night after a brief introduction by Tommy who was "delighted to be with my home town audience". Not much to add except I hope that it is nominated for this year's best documentary. Personally I thought it was a great mix of technical climbing and human interest.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Sep 20, 2018 - 11:55am PT
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I thought it was a good movie but the consensus among us climbers at the theater was that we would rather have seen more of the climbing. There were some really hard pitches that followed the traverse and it would have been nice to see some of the climbing that went into getting up them.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Sep 20, 2018 - 12:05pm PT
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...the dilemma of simply having Tommy go ahead and free the rest of the route (after 10 years!) and Kev having to maybe go down in history as just a belay slave etc.
This is what I mean about contrived drama. The weather was clear for the next week out at that point and the camps were regularly resupplied from the ground. There was literally no pressure to move, the whole crew knew Tommy was a half day of moderate climbing (by his standards) from the top.
I understand that it makes a great story, and will be one of the more talked about aspects of the film, it just feels totally false in the abscence of any opportunity cost associated with waiting.
As for the movie I want, the Sender/BU house has been moving this way for a while, just tossing an opinion out there in case any up and coming filmmakers are reading and wondering if there’s still a market for that type of vid. I will say that I love the fact that guys like Robinson, Webb and the Traversi boys are bypassing these big features and releasing their work in real time. I happily buy any of those they release in hopes of nudging industry with the only vote$ anyone really cares about.
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monolith
climber
state of being
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Sep 20, 2018 - 12:19pm PT
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Maybe there will be a climbers edition product showing just the climbing. Would just need some commentary from the climbers. There was a huge amount of video taken of the whole route. Shame to not show it ever.
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Sep 20, 2018 - 12:45pm PT
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yeah, they were up there filming for 10 years too. let's see some of that footage! the climbing shots in the film were hardly new
Very much enjoyed it though, duh. john long was on point, as usual.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Sep 20, 2018 - 01:00pm PT
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I was at the showing in Boulder last night, where the spokesperson stated that this was one of 600 screens where it was presented. But we had one thing that 599 did NOT have, which was Tommy Caldwell himself. He spoke briefly before the show started and was appreciative of the audience.
That said--probably the best climbing documentary I've seen.
I would see it again in a heartbeat.
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Alan Rubin
climber
Amherst,MA.
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Sep 20, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
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As said above no movie will satisfy the entire audience--especially such a 'specialized' segment of the audience. I enjoyed it, as did my 'no longer climbing' wife--who liked it particularly because the emphasis was not totally on the climbing. Given that this film was released in major theaters instead of the climbing/outdoor film festival circuit, my wife is presumably much closer to the 'target audience' than are the hard core climbing aficionados. Maybe there will be a more climbing intensive 'director's cut' at some point. As far as it being a contender for the Best Documentary Oscar, in my opinion it is a good film but not in the same class as some of its competitors this year such as Three Identical Strangers (should win IMHO)and RBG.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 20, 2018 - 01:56pm PT
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I just bought 2 tix for tonight in Santa Monica... haven't had date night with wifey in a long time! We will have to stay up past our bedtimes though ;)
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Sep 20, 2018 - 02:52pm PT
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It sounds like most showings were pretty packed. my 9:30 in downtown reno was near sold out. Wonder what the box office numbers will say and if they will get another more extended release because it did well enough.
Thought it was very well done explaining free climbing and the significance of the route to an audience that may have no idea about climbing, which is why i hope it gets a more extended release.
Loved them going more in depth with tommy and beth's saga. and then Kevin's point of view... The pressure! forget tommy who was done after wino tower, imagine being in the hotseat with the whole world watching when you don't think you can physically do the traverse.
And finally, as a videographer myself, the night shot of kevin on the traverse really caught my eye, and i assumed they had assembled some elaborate cable cam setup. It was awesome to get to see the simplicity of the behind the scenes setup. Just swinging on ropes in the darkness half way up El Cap! badass and cant imagine the harness fatigue they endured.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Sep 20, 2018 - 03:58pm PT
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I thought the film was great and well worth the wait.
I figured I would post mostly because I saw it in Santa Rosa with a bunch of friends and our tight knit climbing community.
It was even more special to have Kevin Jorgeson introduce the film, give us some background stories and do a Q&A afterwards.
I think most in the audience would have loved to get a little more background on Kevin, but knew this was not only a doc on the climb but also about Tommy's story, which is absolutely compelling and well worth telling.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 20, 2018 - 05:24pm PT
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Really - these events and lines on El Cap are entirely unrelated.
wow, convergent evolution, somehow those guys came up with the feature name "Wino Tower" just like that other FA...
...the filmakers seemed to go out of their way NOT to mention other routes, and stated that "no other climb" existed on that wall, which is hard to reconcile with the history.
The fact that there were other routes doesn't take anything away from this ascent.
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T?S
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Sep 21, 2018 - 01:40pm PT
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...the filmakers seemed to go out of their way NOT to mention other routes, and stated that "no other climb" existed on that wall, which is hard to reconcile with the history.
The fact that there were other routes doesn't take anything away from this ascent.
Clearly done to not confuse the layperson... not out of some devious attempt to omit history.
It is hard enough for non-climbers to grasp the concept of climbing being anything other than death defying free solo.
Adding a lesson in aid climbing vs. free climbing just to give credit to existing aid routes feels unnecessary. It certainly would have muddied the water of what these guys were doing to the uneducated viewer. The filmmakers wanted to portray this ascent as uncharted territory (which it was, in it's discipline, both in route and in difficulty).
And perhaps most importantly: nobody gives a sh#t about aid;)
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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Sep 21, 2018 - 02:04pm PT
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saw this the other night in Drano. hard to take the posing, it was pretty relentless...I thought the film was good but yeah, a little more history (Harding and Wino Towers)instead of the BS Q&A with tommy or the behind the scenes at the end. They also "forgot" to mention the rope to the ground from their camp that led to a stream of resupplies. It also seemed like KJ was on TR while he tried to catch up.....I heard Jones and Hudon were there adding a touch of class.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Sep 23, 2018 - 09:57pm PT
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Kevin leading pitch 15 I think you're stuck on a non-issue. It was probably easier to lead that pitch than follow it, probably easier to reset back to the belay after falling as a leader and his very first attempt may well have been trying to follow Tommy across but he fell. Who cares. It's of zero style consequence. He led the next pitch, one Tommy couldn't even climb - ever. The pitches after that to Wino - like a full number grade easier? Who cares.
IMO - big routes - there are always numerous style slips - it just happens and it's too big and too much energy and time to correct them.
Also - IMO - as long as you follow the general rules and are open and honest about the big stuff - ie, did you free the fuk'n pitch according to normally accepted style - these smaller slips are kind of none of your business unless you've been invited into the story and know enough to specifically ask.
Think you can do it in better style - go for it - and Tommy invited people to do just that. Those two were 100% open to Ondra.
I didn't mind the post look at me feature with the crew too much, but only because it ended well. It was a cringe fest going through the middle of it. Several left the theater. The Tommy Q&A thing - that really should have been cut - it was horrible.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Cali
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Sep 24, 2018 - 09:05am PT
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You know, what shows up on film does NOT necessarily reflect reality. You know this right?! Maybe the footage was missing from when Keven actually led the pitches. Maybe he did TR them. Since they said both led every pitch I would want to give them the benefit of the doubt.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Sep 24, 2018 - 09:28am PT
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I didn't know that both members of a two person team have to lead every pitch in order for it to be legit. I guess all those routes I swung leads on are bogus now, bummer.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Sep 24, 2018 - 09:33am PT
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Who leads what was presented crystal clear and dumbed down for the general public. They did not plan for both to lead all pitches. If you’re confused, ask someone with half a brain who saw the movie but doesn’t even climb. Frankly, nobody does that or ever has beyond a few key crux pitches - like the Salathe Headwall or some-such.
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Rudder
Trad climber
Costa Mesa, CA
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Sep 28, 2018 - 02:23am PT
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I liked it. And, I don't like anything. hehe
It was good, really well crafted. And, the candid moments and comments really made it.
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Rattlesnake Arch
Social climber
Home is where we park it
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Saw it yesterday in Las Vegas at the Regal Colonnade. Enjoyed it immensely. Theatre had some folks but wasn't too crowded. I hope they do well, I have nothing but best wishes for Tommy, Kevin and the rest of the crew.
One factoid I'd like to understand - the statement that it was "drier" at night. Actually the relative humidity rises throughout the night as the air cools. Possibly on a steep slope the less dense humid air is displaced by cooler, drier air from the higher elevations. Or maybe they meant that their hands didn't sweat as much when it was cold.
Any scientists care to comment on this?
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limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
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Saw it last night, thought they did a great job. I didn’t know many of the details from the time they were captured so that was interesting.
^^^^^
Relative humidity is the amount of moisture in the air compared to the amount of moisture that the air can hold. When it gets colder the relative humidity rises because the air can’t hold as much moisture, but the actual amount of moisture in the air may be the same or lower. Usually when the temperature drops some of the water clumps up and falls to the ground as dew. So the relative humidity may be higher at night even though much of the moisture has fallen to the ground.
Or at least that’s how I understood it and welcome correction.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Oct 19, 2018 - 12:17pm PT
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Finally saw the full movie last night at VIMFF. Outstanding although again, as with Free Solo, some serious editing seems likely for the television version.
It would have been nice had they mentioned that the route that was climbed largely followed the line of the Wall of the Early Morning Light (1970), by Warren Harding and Dean Caldwell. With if I understand correctly bits of other routes. History. Although sneaking in Wino Tower was a good in joke. Also, IIRC that Tommy's father himself climbed El Capitan in the late 1960s.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Nov 26, 2018 - 09:47am PT
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”I simply respected all their choices/compromises and think it was great.” –Kingtut
Agree. Totally agree with your other points as well.
Watched Dawn Wall this weekend. Twice. Immensely enjoyable film on so many levels. Apart from everything else, thought Largo’s contribution was terrific, helping to piece it together nicely.
I’m glad I’m not in any situation where I’d have to choose which film, DW or FS, is best.
It’s funny strange so many fellow climbers mention their hands sweating while watching climbing clips. For me, my hands don’t sweat - they don’t ever, must be genetic - instead, for me, it’s my feet that do and sometimes, like in this film, I end up having to change socks or leave the bed sheets, lol.
Largo, great job!
At the end of the film there was a shot or two of Tommy's face, ala scruffy beard - tired/haggard yet visionary and determined - say steely eyed - that I thought could epitomize the explorer type, the risk taker type, the trailblazer type on which our advancing species and civilization has so dearly depended historically. Maybe I'll screen grab it if I can and post it here. Somehow it made me think of Lewis and Clark and the Discovery Corps, lol, and the sort of strength and leadership and character and personalities that that project and other similars took to complete.
Anyhow, kudos to all who made this happen. Grade A in my book.
P.S. As with Free Solo, I hope the powers that be release a Climbers Cut at some point. That would be the frosting on the cake.
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apinguat
Trad climber
kingfield, me
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Dawn Wall is now up for streaming/rental/purchase/download
Wanting to put the most back into the community I would usually go straight to the source but it is all hosted though larger platforms. Does anyone know which download option passes the most on to the climbers/film makers?
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Mtnmun
Trad climber
Top of the Mountain Mun
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Jan 21, 2019 - 04:28pm PT
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The Dawn Wall played at the Wild and Scenic Film Festival this weekend in Nevada City. Tommy was there to introduce the film and to take questions afterwards. The house was packed and no one left until Tommy said goodnight.
It's no surprise it received the best adventure film award.
In addition Tommy stopped into the local climbing gym to do a meet and greet and to do a little climbing with the locals on Saturday afternoon. He is one classy dirtbag. :^)
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fragglerockjoe
Trad climber
space-man from outer space
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Mar 21, 2019 - 11:43am PT
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Wow! That was really cool. I just purchased the movie and watched it.
Kevin's attempts to climb across the traverse were really inspiring.
Tommy's an amazing person and John Long's commentary is encouraging me too.
I really like the movie and I am going to watch it again. Right now :-)
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crøtch
climber
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Mar 21, 2019 - 11:51am PT
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Streaming free on Netflix now.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Mar 21, 2019 - 01:08pm PT
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It is interesting that the folks at Reel Rock decided to digitally erase the cameramen out of the film(this is most notable with all the closeups during the filming of the traverse). They wanted the audience to focus on the climbers and not be distracted by seeing cameramen so close by.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Mar 21, 2019 - 01:41pm PT
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^ That IS interesting, Bruce. I can understand why they'd do this, but good info as far as viewing the film and wondering how they made some of the shots, knowing there's been some erasures.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Mar 21, 2019 - 05:17pm PT
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^^^^^^^^^^^^
Agreed. Just watched Dawn Wall on Netflix and also saw a copy of Free Solo that some friends had. I thought both movies were really good (climbing films have definitely improved) but in some ways, I could relate more to the film about Caldwell.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Mar 21, 2019 - 07:25pm PT
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Dawnamite! Tommy & Kevin did a stellar job freeing the Dawn Wall! The backstory and account of the ascent was compelling and gripping! Brilliant, two Thumbs up!
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Mar 21, 2019 - 08:12pm PT
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Those of you who saw the film on Netflix were spared a couple of shorts that ran after the film finished. The first short was a quick clip of Tommy answering a few questions and telling us what he is up to now. The second short centered on what it took to film the movie.
Though I found both these shorts interesting, I thought they totally killed the vibe of the movie. We see Tommy and Kevin top on out El Cap and then the audience sits there for another 15 minutes or so watching this other stuff. Sure all us climbers will sit there and suck that stuff up because we will watch just about anything about climbing, but I think that was a total buzz kill for the general public.
The shorts should have been put in the "extra features" button on the DVD.
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Heisenberg
Trad climber
RV, middle of Nowehere
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Mar 25, 2019 - 10:25am PT
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Saw it last night and the footage is amazing, the story is deep and gave an understanding into the complexity of the climb. I'm kinda surprised that it didn't win any awards as Free Solo did.
Tommy is truly a class act and supporting his partner as a team was really cool to see the raw emotions.
I believe he intentionally dropped his phone, I would.
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EdwardT
Trad climber
Retired
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Mar 27, 2019 - 07:43am PT
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Streaming free on Netflix now.
Thanks crotch.
Excellent film, all around.
Good story, back ground story, cinematography
All of it was superb.
Props to film crew...
and of course...
Tommy and Kevin!
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fragglerockjoe
Trad climber
space-man from outer space
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Mar 29, 2019 - 05:38pm PT
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The movie is so cool that I slept the last two nights on the portaledge in the crown of a tree. First 15' high and the second night at about 30'. Those portaledges sure are tough to set up! I think I am going to tree climb my way all the way up a big wall. What the heck I've spent 18 years reading and studying climbing magazines, and books. I'm ecstatic.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Mar 29, 2019 - 05:54pm PT
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I posted already on The Flames about my viewing Dawn Wall.
Those insightful thoughts were overwhelmingly positive.*
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2607974&msg=3186170#msg3186170
And moosedrool, it's okay to make fun of folks with missing fingers.
I, myself, do it all the time.
If I had two thumbs, I'd still only give DW one thumb.
See, that thing about two thumbs is totally mis-used.
It is a way of giving approval based on TWO views, both of which are favorable, not just one lame know-it-all view.
*Not totally, given the comment on Alex.
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