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the idle rich
climber
Estes Park, CO
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That would be Donini and the one in Avalanche Canyon is Chouinard and Kent Lugbill.
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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In 1972 I was 17 and had just got my driver's license. I had the incredible fortune of getting a call from the Mazamas (of which I was a member), asking if I wanted to go to the Annual Outing in the Tetons as a cook helper, all expenses paid! You can guess what my answer was! There were four cook helpers, in two teams of two. Each team alternated, working every other day. This meant if I worked a shift for one of the other team members, when they "paid me back" I'd get three days off in a row. This allowed me to go on not one, but two climbs of the Grand, with an overnight stay at the Lower Saddle. Both climbs took the Owen-Spalding route. I'll never forget "Threading The Eye of the Needle", and especially the "Belly Roll" where the exposure above the West Face was 4,000 feet! During the first trip up, the Ice Chimney crux was quite difficult, I dare say more than 5.5, due to the slick conditions. When I climbed it again one week later, the ice was all melted out and the moves were definitely easier.
Other climbs I got to do during the three week outing included Ice Point, Symmetry Spire, Teewinot, and Buck Peak. There were probably others, but memory has faded just a bit in the last 43 or so years ...
I have some scanned slides at home but alas I'm at work so I don't have access to them. Maybe later if this stays on the front page.
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Bump!
I'm thinking of going up in early - mid June.
It would be cool to sample some of the classics, and do something where you need to climb ice and rock.
I have a canoe.
PM me if you want to meet up there . . .
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Feb 22, 2016 - 08:42pm PT
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No but I want to. I have backpacked the paintbrush divide loop and it was really cool and scenic.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Feb 23, 2016 - 02:21pm PT
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bump
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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The Tetons hold a special place in my heart and soul. I was quite active thru out the roarin 70's. A few pics from the day.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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SteveA commented on the memories Rgold's pic brought back. This was Deja Vue for me, on left. Run-don't Walk Couloir hanging high above had a hold on me, and I remember your ascent. In May 73', Jay Wilson and I did the 2nd ascent. We continued a direct line to the summit of Mt Owen. I still remember the 1st(mixed) and 3rd (waterfall pillar) leads. That was the hardest technical ice I'd done to that point. And the rock fall...we also had mobile refrigerators hurling thru space.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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First went there in 1979 with Dan Bolster, Tony Jewell and Tom Walter in Tony's Econoline van, drafting trucks out from CA.
Tom and I did the N Ridge of the Grand in 14 hours car-to-car. We were in really good shape that summer. A couple of days later we did the Snaz. Tom forgot one of his EBs and led the crux with one EB and a tennis shoe.
They went over to Lander to join NOLS and I hitched down to Colorado and did D7 on the Diamond with a friend of mine there.
Climbed off and on over there over the years. Always have liked it, even though I was spoiled by High Sierra granite early on so the Tetons always seemed a bit more chossy to me. It's still a great place to climb and I try to do at least one thing there every year.
Hard to pick a favorite there. Mine are Irene's Arete, Open Book, and the Serendipity Arete. Really fine climbs.
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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I just remembered another: Storm Point.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Mar 22, 2017 - 10:25am PT
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funny question about the Upper Exum (not the full Direct Exum) -- would one rope suffice for the several rappels from the summit? would a single 70-meter rope (i.e. 35-meter rappel) work?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Mar 22, 2017 - 10:36am PT
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Moran South Butt was the business!
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Mar 22, 2017 - 11:11am PT
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A single 70m rope would get you down the descent. Possibly even a 60m.
You'd have to break the long rappel into 2 pitches (I saw some intermediate slings around a flake).
BTW, this thread inspired me to get up there last summer. I did the Upper Exum, and was not disappointed. Still, I'd like to go back and do the full Exum route.
Better be in hiking shape!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 22, 2017 - 03:13pm PT
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Isa took this shot of me last summer
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Mar 22, 2017 - 05:09pm PT
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Damn ... real climbin' bump
Never been , but I am going. Thanks to all for great pics and inspiration !
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ryankelly
Trad climber
Bhumi
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Mar 22, 2017 - 09:47pm PT
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formative place in my life. worked in Kelly one summer. climbed "the Grand" became a hippy. that was it.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Mar 23, 2017 - 07:58am PT
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First went to the Tetons in 1979 w/4 of my CA climbing buddies in an old Econoline van. Tony Jewell, Tom Walter, Dan Bolster and I. We got there on Friday nite, went to the Cowboy Bar and closed it...I was the only one who could (barely) drive...ended up in the barrow pit out towards Wilson.
Couple of days later, Tom and I did the N Ridge of the Grand...14 hours car to car. We were in really good shape from Spring in the Valley. A couple of days later we did The Snaz. Tom forgot one of his EBs and led the crux in an EB and a tennis shoe. He was later killed on Foraker...a good man...
The three of them wanted to go to Lander and check out NOLS. I wasn't interested so I started hitching to Colorado to meet up with a friend to do the Diamond (D7 it turned out). A cowboy with Texas plates stopped outside of Jackson and asked me if I was one of them California hippies (I had pretty long hair). I said, no, but I'm from California. So he gave me a ride...pretty cool guy looking for cowboy work...we went to all these rough bars through Pinedale and down and of course the residents wanted to give me a haircut but he told them, nah, leave him alone, he's all right. He bought me drinks in every bar and by the time we got to Rock Springs, I could hardly get outta the truck...that's why they used to have the drive-up liquor windows in WYO, by the way, because that's when you blow it is getting outta the car.
Anyway, I try to go over there once or twice a year now that we live in Lander...sorta like the Taj Mahal when you drive over Togowtee Pass...it never fails to impress you.
Over the years have climbed all the crystalline peaks over there. Can't think of one I didn't like. It's pretty crowded these days but you can see why...
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