The Lazide gear tests.....


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Social climber
St. Louis
Oct 31, 2006 - 10:25pm PT
Russ: Interested in playing with my harness? New one is en route...

The last several months, everytime I put it on, I wondered if it was a safe harness. Then I thought "aw, there is redundancy built into these things...."


right here, right now
Oct 31, 2006 - 10:59pm PT
I was wondering how many guys like yerself Russ & Malcom maybe, might get some requests to bust up some stuff.

I have some solid stemmed friends, rigged with 1" tubular and bartacked by you 19.5 years ago. They are still in service. Wanna bust a loop or two?

Also, my harness, um, made by moi, is 12-15 years old, and has a 9/16" super tape belay loop, with, well, a lil' nick in it.

This cud be embarrasing & interesting, (both beat wakin' up dead); wanna bust that too?

Lemme get out my responses now:
-sheesh, I knew that stuff was still bomber!
or will it be-
-honest, I was gonnah retire it real soon, plus I don't really weight it...

Oct 31, 2006 - 11:18pm PT
Roy, I'm sendin ya a new harness for Kimas. No, I'm sendin it on the morrow. Cuz I luv ya baby!

Russ: That gear pulling is something. Always exciting action. Lemme know when ya get that poker game going. I'd really like to fly in. If gals are allowed, that is. That would be some big time fun!

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Oct 31, 2006 - 11:23pm PT
Very interesting! How about breaking the belay loop while you're at it?

Edit: Oops, missed the first line. Tested to 4,000 lbf without failing.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Oct 31, 2006 - 11:29pm PT
Roy: Your 19 year old solid stem Friends may themselves be worn out, forgetting about their slings. Just like a few of mine. The axles get worn and weakened, apparently. Your harness sounds rather - alpine. :)

Maybe we should have big ST parties at climbing test labs - BD, Trango, Fish, etc. Those who live nearby can bring a bunch of old stuff, and maybe some food and beer, and a sober technician can bust it all while we hoot and holler. Maybe some dogs and stuff, too. (Ron can bring his arsenal, and Junior.) I bet we'd learn a lot, not all of it amusing.


right here, right now
Oct 31, 2006 - 11:34pm PT
Then there's the rusted out rear shock towers in my 74 BMW...

Big Wall climber
Bay Area, CA
Nov 1, 2006 - 08:01pm PT
bump for the cool pics....

Nov 1, 2006 - 08:40pm PT
Russ, I got this old "Fish" wall swami, with some wear, I know you probably dont want everyone sending there old harnesses to you, but its yours so maybe some more interest. The belay loop is worn, and its about 10 years old and has done 11 walls. If interested I'll send it your way.

As for the belay back up on the leg loop, well essentially that back up is holding the brake strand into the breaked position so it probably is'nt holding that much weight, most of the weight and holding power is still at your belay device on your loop, the back up is really just a third hand to hold the break strand. Do you fell like your holding 300lb. when you rap? If your belay loop actually fails then well I guess its not much of a back up, but provided your loop is in good condition as well as your rap device than your leg loop should be fine.

If you are super worried about that, put your back up right on your belay loop and above your rap device. This however is then relying on the strength of your back up material since in an accident all your weight will be on that material. This is nice if you have to re-ascend the line for some reason.


Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
Nov 1, 2006 - 08:59pm PT
Good point. However, there are some times when that backup could be loaded with more than 800 pounds. Those are circumstances where it would not be playing the role of just "backup break hand".

Examples would be:

Your belay loop breaks (highly unlikely)
You threaded only one strand of rope thru your biner when loading your ATC (possible)
You come unclipped from your belay device. (how on earth...)
Your belay device/biner breaks (incredibly unlikely, but has happened with fig 8 belay devices, if I remember properly)

Anyway, its possible, though it seems like in most cases it would be just a "backup break hand."


Social climber
The West
Nov 1, 2006 - 09:35pm PT

19.5 yrs old = old= n00b, haha.

I have a first run, original model #2 freind (~78?) with it's cherry (tied) sling. I have fallen on it within the last calendar year, to no negative effect. Yeah, there was something newer backing it up.

I had assumed newer cordage would make it bomber, thoughts? In a way, I'd like to see how it would test out. But it's my oldest freind and I don't really want to wreck history.

more thoughts?

Might trade slightly newer stuff ( I have I have 6 original 2,5's for example) to a testor, for brand new cams.

right here, right now
Nov 1, 2006 - 09:42pm PT
that's just the age of the slings and was mussy's color code upgrade proj suggestion that afternoon.
Some of those cams, well...
I got 'em from that Abalakov guy summer' of '64, (when I was in nursery school yah)
...Way before he showed the idea to Jello.

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Nov 3, 2006 - 10:14am PT
Axels wear on those babies. Check it good!... Then don't fall.
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