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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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Thanks for taking the time to make an informed post
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HiClimb SB
Sport climber
GOLETA
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Nov 19, 2016 - 10:27pm PT
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Febs - do you have any update, hopefully hearing from Rock Exotica? They discontinued the Silent Partner, and it sure would be good to know if this is because there are safety concerns.
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couchmaster
climber
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Nov 20, 2016 - 07:08am PT
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^^ He got his money back from Rock Exotica as Feb noted just upthread^^^
I'm wondering if the lubrication was changed to something else? A couple of folks note repeatedly using theirs in the cold successfully, whereas others don't. Wonder if they changed the brand of lube in the manufacturing process. It's all pretty black box, but that would be worth looking into. Except is it true that they have discontinued the product?
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Maciej
Trad climber
Poland
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I have had my SP for quite a few years and used it only in summer in crags - and one day, doble checking the device just before leaving the ground, it failed. The same way as described here. Never used the device again, it may kill you.
I wrote email to manufacturer. They replied, blaming the previous company (there was a business take-over at some point).
Sorry guys, this expensive tool does not work.
Maciej Tertelis, Poland
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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I've taken 50-60 falls on my Silent Partner, and never had it fail EXCEPT in a slow rolling fall or when I tried to resist the fall. If you are going to fall on the SP, take the fall, and use the backup knots that are required anyway with it to take the weight off the rope. The SP is stil the best solo device out there, but like ANY device, there are things that can cause it not to react like you wish it would all the time. Ever had a cam blow out? So like what, you stopped using cams? Jesus, what is this, the cry baby thread?
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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50-60 falls? You are brave. I still don't want to fall on my SP, though it did happen once
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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The problem with these units is the same for auto belays in the gym: moving parts that are hard or impossible for the user to inspect. Should climbers rely on safety gear that cannot be inspected? Can back up solo belays with knots. Try modified gri gri with chest harness. Beware rope diameter because it will try to autofeed rope. But its easy to climb with and easy to inspect and test function. Not a device Id take my eyes off for long. Someday someone will come up with a better mousetrap. You can add a small prussick to the anchor end of the rope and your leg loop or tie in to prevent autofeed. Or tie off short on pro (not recommended due to fall force factor.... Make sure your prussick is long enough that it doesnt chicken wing you when you fall. And dont step through it or you will get winged. Keep it on top of your leg while climbing, just like the rope to avoid misshaps! The prussick must be loose enough to feed when you pull up but not loose enough for rope to autofeed. Honestly the solo climber is my idol. Mostly done it in gyms while coursesetting. You got balls and creativity if youre rope soloing.
OR YOUR GONNA DIE hahaha that was for you Locker.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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The SP is absolutely the "best solo device out there" among devices built specifically for soloing go. That said, personally having tried all of the specifically-built devices multiple times and - for just me - none of them remotely holds a candle to the Eddy for free lead rope soloing, but then lead rope soloing is definitely a whatever blows your skirt up sort of deal.
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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What is the Eddie? Ive never used one.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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A German take on the grigri, but with a reverse rope path from the grigri and braking if you pull the lever all the way back.
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youri
climber
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For the record, I put my SP in the fridge (+4c) for 2h and did a buch of tests. Mine worked every time. Brings me some confidence. I have a record of probably 50 falls on mine too.
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Febs
Trad climber
Northern Italy
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2018 - 08:33am PT
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Whoa, I was searching for infos about the revo and I ended up here again.
Try leaving it in the freezer (not in the fridge) for one hour or two and you'll see the difference.
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FourSeas
Trad climber
Incline Village, NV
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Jun 28, 2018 - 02:14pm PT
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I put both my Silent Partner and my Revo in the freezer set at 0 F overnight. They both locked up fine when I tested them with a rope. My Silent Partner is a newer model from Rock Exotica. Maybe Rock Exotica made some changes to address cold performance.
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FourSeas
Trad climber
Incline Village, NV
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Jun 28, 2018 - 06:15pm PT
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I should also note that the lube inside was thick after freezing it so I spun super slow by hand. The Revo was slow too. But when I wrapped a rope around them and yanked like in a fall...they both locked up no problem.
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