Broken Arrow video

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Mei

Trad climber
mxi2000.net
Nov 21, 2017 - 05:46pm PT
Lonnie Kauk's video shows a real trad ascent, with gear clipped and placed on the lead in a single push.

Following question comes from someone whose favorite form of climbing is following long multi-pitch climbs, so it’s by no means criticism in any shape or form. I think both Katie’s and Lonnie’s ascents were remarkable, but since the “pure” tactic is so highly emphasized and celebrated here, can anyone explain the two clips at 3’13” and 4’27” in Lonnie’s video? Can’t see details, but the biners appeared to be already in place when he climbed up to them, no?
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Nov 21, 2017 - 07:47pm PT
Olmstead Cyn was on my radar for a time, back in '71, but no one considered it worth the drive/walk among those with whom I climbed. It's a beauty spot, for sure. Really special places are one of the things I appreciate most about climbing.

Katie, don't let these guys make you feel you need do something you don't feel safe doing. (I know I'm preaching to the choir.)

Lonnie's just like his dad, a crazy-talented climber, period.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 22, 2017 - 10:27am PT
Thanks for the bump..... great videos.

"Ho Ho man.... just like an electronic spook"


nothing like 5.13D videos to get me up for some 5.9D sends.

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