Do you have to climb a route, in order to post a pic of it?

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KristofferSzilas

Mountain climber

Denmark

Nov 25, 2015 - 08:43am PT

Is it,"way harder than anything on El Cap"?

Well, let's just say that Steve Schneider failed four times on the Compressor Route, but then again what has he ever climbed on El Cap?

“They f*#cked a historical route that was put up before they were born. Other people think Jason and Hayden are heroes. I think they’re as#@&%es for [chopping the route]” - Steve Schneider

On 14 February 2007, Valentine’s Day for most, circa 40 international mountaineers held an extraordinary meeting at El Chalten’s "Los Glaciares" visitor center to discuss the possibility of removing the expansion bolts along Cesare Maestri’s 1970 “Compressor route” up the SE Ridge of Cerro Torre...At the end of assembly circa 30 of the 40 mountainerrs voted to leave the bolts in loco.

phylp

Trad climber

Upland, CA

Nov 25, 2015 - 08:49am PT

Just because the quilting club here gives you grief

Hey BuddhaStalin, are you trying to start a fight with me?!? I 'm a member of the quilting club and I've never given Avery any grief. I like his posts. Plus, you and I are members of the loyal Subaru team - we have more in common than not. So let's not get into one of these nonsensical Forum tiffs.

I have to admit my quilting has been neglected for a long time now. I've been out climbing 9 days out of the past month. But it's turned cold here in SoCal so I hope to be doing some quilting soon.

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 25, 2015 - 08:53am PT

I have been on that particular route in awful weather. I stood on a small icy ledge 60 meters above the compressor in hurricane force winds my shells coated in ice with a very problematic descent in the offing. No climbs in Patagonia are walks in the park.

The Compressor Route had significant (one could say too much) bolting on six or seven pitches but some REAL climbing on twenty pitches.

It was probably me who coined the phrase "the world's hardest via ferratta." In retrospect I somewhat regret saying that, i was just trying to make a point.

The point being that, to me, the most beautiful mountain in the world deserved a better route. I've been told That now the route goes at 5.11+ A2....certainly not out of the range of today!s Patagonian climbers and maybe more befitting for this iconic peak.

It also appears that more attention has been drawn to the West Face a magnificant ice climb.

BuddhaStalin

climber

Truckee, CA

Nov 25, 2015 - 09:01am PT

You sir are alright. You dont stand out in my memory in that sort of way. Quilt away. I dont hang out long enough to pay that all much attention to who is currently dou-che-ing who or leghumping who, but jeez, some folks just wont allow any climbing content in here, you know?

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 25, 2015 - 09:05am PT

Carry on Avery....even the tread drifts you get are OT!

KristofferSzilas

Mountain climber

Denmark

Nov 25, 2015 - 09:34am PT

Jim, I agree with everything you said. The same thing goes for more than 50% of the climbs on El Cap, which only exist because of rivet ladders.
I just don't see the need for chopping a historic route, which the local Patagonian climbers had already taken a vote on to preserve. Also I don't think people realize just how hard that climb actually was even with the bolt traverse (which by the way is still in place), or that some of the most vocal climbers on this topic have not even completed it themselves.

Here is a visual trip report from my climb of the Compressor Route:

http://www.supertopo.com/tripreport/tripreport.php?articleid=12878

Bushman

Social climber

Elk Grove, California

Nov 25, 2015 - 09:40am PT

My dad invented being a nancy...

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Nov 25, 2015 - 10:00am PT

KS.....you're TR is beautiful. Well there are a lot of armchair mountaineers here. i think that Avery has every right to post photos of climbs he hasn't done. There is a problem, however, when people comment knowingly on climbs they haven't done.
Most on ST climb in Ca. Which has some of the best climbing weather on the planet. It's hard for most people to imagine Patagonian climbing is like.....severe technical climbing on rock and ice with Patagonian weather (or the constant threat thereof) to deal with.
As you say, Steve Schneider, a climber with great ability, failed multiple times.

phylp

Trad climber

Upland, CA

Nov 25, 2015 - 10:03am PT

LOL, Burchey.
Happy Thanksgiving. We need to go climbing sometime this winter (J Tree when it's sunny).
Sir/Madam Phyl

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Nov 25, 2015 - 02:19pm PT

For me, the most awesome tower I've never climbed.
Well, I did do it in my armchair, but that's okay...I lived through that experience.

Avery, you're right up there with Jesus, who's alright with me and many others. Keep doin' what you're doin'.

I've got a story of the reverse of your quandary.

During the late '80s, I went and climbed North Dome following the Royal Arches route with a Kiwi I'd partnered with on HCSpire one day. On theArches and on the Dome, we used his double rope technique the next day, two 9mm Mammuts, his and mine, which I suggested because I'd never used it before, and he had that kind of experience needed to explain it to me. We took no photos but did the climb, wishing we each had cameras, as so often happens!

We crushed the two climbs and were back in Camp 4 early enough to catch the shadows moving into the campground in late afternoon. I came to the conclusion that two nines were not necessary on such good rock as Yosemite granite.

It was a great two days. I've since forgotten the Kiwi's name. Had I had a camera, I likely would still remember his moniker.

He wasn't you, by chance, was he? :0)

Contractor

Boulder climber

Nov 25, 2015 - 03:19pm PT

Haven't you figured out that, no matter what you post, the second you hit "POST REPLY", several dozen red lazer-scope dots appear on your forehead?

If I were to post- "My Cancer ridden grandma makes the greatest chocolate chip cookies :) :) !!!"

Someone on ST would go into a rage.

Contractor

Boulder climber

Nov 25, 2015 - 03:56pm PT

fuk you! she still looks hot in her spanks bro!

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Nov 25, 2015 - 04:01pm PT

Avery
Apparently you didn't get the memo...or didn't read the fine print.

I know, stuff works differently down there in the southern hemi- water swirls the wrong way, you say bru instead of bro...
It's ok, I forgive you.
Giant holes in the ozone can do weird stuff to a man.

Avery

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2015 - 10:18pm PT

Thanks drljefe. I'll sleep well tonight after reading those inspirational words.

Have you ever been to NZ?

Avery

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2015 - 10:20pm PT

Thanks mouse. Who knows? it might have been me.

Avery

climber

Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2015 - 10:35pm PT

I agree with Jim
.
I would never make drastic statements about a climb I haven't done. Particularly if I start taking unrealistic liberties. That would be fraud.

However, commenting on the History of a climb is another matter. Whats done is done. you can't turn back the clock.

The bolt chopping Cerro Torre saga is a case in point. I've never seen Cerro Torre, let alone climbed it. I have a strong view on this. But my lack of intimate experience regarding the route makes me apprehensive about discussing it.

An opinion such as mine carries very little weight, without that "personal experience"