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| Messages 1 - 15 of total 15 in this topic |
toejahm
Trad climber
Chatsworth, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 24, 2015 - 02:58pm PT
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Well really two attempts without success.
Our first attempt was November 22, 2013. Turned out to be a great hike, but the conditions wern't in our favor.
It never cleared that day, but the scenery was amazing, and we at least got a look at the right side.
Our second attempt was November 7, 2014. The conditions couldn't have been more dissimilar. Eager to get moving we arrived at the base just after sunrise and I set out on pitch one. Ummm, it turns out this pitch is a little runout. I don't recall placing any gear other than clipping the three bolts, though I may have placed a small alien after the second bolt.
Pitch two heads into the corner on the left then trends back to the right. I believe this pitch went with natural gear, definitely fun except for the fact we couldn't find the anchors. OK, we found some rusty old anchors, which are kind of what we expected, but they were way left, like 70' of what appeared to be the line.
We ending up rappelling out of a little corner below our high point happy to of made it as far as we did, but disapointed not getting to see the route to the finish.
peace,
KR
p.s. we've discussed returning, so does anyone have any insight as to the anchors? did I not climb high enough? were the anchors to the left the correct ones? Do I need to grow a bigger set...ha
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 24, 2015 - 03:13pm PT
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The look on that dog's face speaks volumes.
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The Chief
climber
Down the hill & across the Valley from......
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Nov 24, 2015 - 03:18pm PT
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As I recall the one time I did Eve's Wang, which you describe, the 1/4" Leeper anchors for P2 were there. But that was over 15 years ago.
You may want to ask Bob Harrington for more info. He put it up.
Now, if you mistakenly got on either the Jenson/Shaw or Mike S's God Grace both located to the right of Eve's Wang, I do not recall either having any anchors for P2.
The Anchors you may have seen if you got on the Jensen/Shaw by mistake, are in fact the P2 anchors I speak of above on Bob's, Eve's Wang. If not, and were in fact on Eve's Wang, then the two bolt anchor you saw are those on DR's Adams Rib if I recall correctly.
Hope this helps.
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Nov 24, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
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Proud effort(s). I've lived here a long time and heard so many stories that I'm just not interested in the rig. I like yer pics. Keep it up. Knock the bastard off.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 24, 2015 - 03:30pm PT
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Br'er fox you can throw me in the briar patch any ole time but please, oh please!...... don't make me climb those run out slabs.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Nov 24, 2015 - 03:43pm PT
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Keep it up.....
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Nov 24, 2015 - 07:50pm PT
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No help here, except stoke bump! I've been licking pg. 281 of the Croft/Lewis Bishop guide since I got it last April.
Strictly arm-chair spitballing here, but maybe you hit the pitch 2 1/2 anchors for Adam's Rib (starts "between" the ears before moving right)? On the topo they look about where you described you might be.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 25, 2015 - 01:18am PT
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hey there say, toejahm... this was very interesting...
thanks for sharing...
wow, some pics, too--whewww, all that snow...
good share, thanks again... :)
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 25, 2015 - 01:19am PT
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hey there say, toejahm,
ooops, forgot...
say, can you fill me in on this spot...
i am not a climber and i don't think i've seen anything
on this yet... ?
thanks, :)
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The Chief
climber
Down the hill & across the Valley from......
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Nov 25, 2015 - 08:13am PT
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Neebee,
The Rabbit Ears are located below the arrow half way down the Crest...
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Nov 25, 2015 - 10:41am PT
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Nice report and effort. I've always wanted to climb there, despite the approach, when I drove by, but the lure around Pratt's Crack always sent me a bit farther south and around the corner. I may need to reconsider.
John
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 25, 2015 - 12:09pm PT
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hey there say, the chief, say, thanks so much...
seeing the whole range, as well, in the whole strip there,
really helped the best, too! thanks again, :)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Nov 25, 2015 - 03:14pm PT
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worthy
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toejahm
Trad climber
Chatsworth, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 07:48am PT
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Thanks gang for the great comments, it encourages me to post more TRs.
JL, no kidding, Pratt's and Sheila are hard to pass up.
Neebee,
As you head up pine creek the Rabbit Ears are to the right. you access through a maze of dirt roads that eventually lead to an area behind the farms. This can be done without encroching on their property.
These are not my photo, but are a good depiction of what you will be looking for.
Peace and Happy Thankgiving,
KR
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dee ee
Mountain climber
Of THIS World (Planet Earth)
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Nov 30, 2015 - 08:29am PT
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I climbed the Smokestack in the 80's with Sibylle. We thought it was a great route but a very big day.
We hitch hiked up there, went in and did the classic IV 5.9 route on Picture Peak. Then after a day at Big Al and Gail Wilts (they were room mates) house we borrowed Gail's little car and drove in for the Smokestack. We ripped her muffler off on the drive in and had to replace it.
Turned out to be an expensive trip for a couple of dirtbags.
The formation from a couple of days ago.
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