Valley Giants

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Messages 161 - 180 of total 216 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 20, 2017 - 03:15am PT
Looking great!
email sent.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 20, 2017 - 05:47am PT
Email set
I have the same question about that long skinny stem though.

When I did the fa of Wide World of Sport, @Balch Camp, in 1995, I had prototype #5 Camalots ( they weren't on the market yet) and one larger lobbed cam on the same infrastructure. The cams were too much for the frame and that thing flopped like a flounder. Subsequently and consequently, it never made it to market.

The Pamalots has this same problem I've found, when I've held, placed, triggered them.

I hope this is adequately addressed in merlinvile
The cloud nines, with their rigid stem do not have this issue, but the stem can become bent in certain kinds of sideways torqueing falls on big roofs.

The valley giant is the only existing big cam so far to have adequately addressed this issue. The heavy duty cables flex, rather than deform, and yet are beefy enough to not flop from cam lobe weight,
nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Apr 20, 2017 - 06:39am PT
Jaybro (#6 on the list ;-)), as you are fortunate to have held, placed, triggered the Pamelots, have you taken photographs of these cams? Apart from the ones on the Internet, I have not been able to get good pictures of these big guys.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 20, 2017 - 06:55am PT
No action shots. Just photos of the unit at rest ive posted some. I'll dig em up..
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Apr 20, 2017 - 07:11am PT
Credit: Jaybro

Credit: Jaybro

More to follow,I have things to do right now...
edavidso

Trad climber
Oakland, CA
Apr 20, 2017 - 07:50am PT
Thanks for the interest and emails. And thanks, Nutstory, for cleaning up that sheetrock wall!

Just to answer the question on the long, skinny stem. I actually addressed this earlier in the thread but to make it clear: the stem is a solid 5/32" 17-4 SST rod. I cold head one end to taper it out to about 1/4" and then heat treat to the H925 condition. At that point it has a tensile strength of nearly 1400 MPa and is one of the strongest stainless steels available. Also not a cheap part! To assemble, it is pressed into the stem end (also 17-4), which has a mating taper, with 2 tons. The other end gets silver soldered to the 304 SST handle. Since the stem is solid, it does not flop around at all, and because it is so strong it can be bent up to about 2.5" in any direction before yielding (not returning to centered). If it does get torqued off center in a fall, you can just hold the cam lobes and bend it back to centered. Due to its strength and toughness, it also has amazing fatigue properties and you can bend it like this hundreds of times.

I also experimented with making the cam with a 3/16" wire rope stem with 1x7 construction for stiffness. Due to the single stem design, this was still a little floppier than I wanted it to be. It also ends up being heavier since wire rope is not as strong as 17-4. You also add one silver solder joint, which is undesirable for a few reasons.

nutstory

climber
Ajaccio, Corsica, France
Apr 20, 2017 - 08:04am PT
Great Jaybro, thank you again!
ionlyski

Trad climber
Kalispell, Montana
Apr 20, 2017 - 08:13am PT
OK then!
Matt's

climber
Apr 20, 2017 - 08:13am PT
edavidso-- looks great! email sent.

best,
matt
Moof

Big Wall climber
Orygun
Apr 20, 2017 - 11:09am PT
Email sent.
fivethirty

Ice climber
CA
Apr 20, 2017 - 11:24am PT
email sent!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 20, 2017 - 01:15pm PT
Wow, Erick - thanks for explaining your stem design!
Your creativity (multiple innovations) and engineering skill are at a level well above other cams!
Alexey

climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 20, 2017 - 02:22pm PT
Email sent
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Apr 20, 2017 - 03:00pm PT
The Anniversary of the start of My 20th year of bliss, just passed. Idid everything I could think of, trying to convince the good wife that I needed a massive cam.

She said to me:
"the only hard wide you'll be climbing - is Me!" this old lady! Has my number and knows to feed me beer & pizza once a month @least.


The Merlin's look amazing!
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Apr 20, 2017 - 04:59pm PT
Email sent =)
Naitch

climber
Blue Ridge Mts, Shenandoah River
Apr 20, 2017 - 06:17pm PT
email sent
Idahoan

Trad climber
Idaho
Apr 20, 2017 - 06:32pm PT
Email sent here as well. Damn I'm low on that list
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Apr 20, 2017 - 06:50pm PT
Bowwww! I'm gettin my pyche on for the WHYYYYED! 😳

PM sent.

But if there's a better way to connect, I didn't see a link?


Edit, vvvv Thanks for the heads up. Email sent:)
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Apr 20, 2017 - 06:56pm PT
BLUEBLOCR, Taco PM does NOT work.... send edavidso an email to merlinrockgear@gmail.com, per his request a couple posts up.
karabin museum

Trad climber
phoenix, az
Apr 20, 2017 - 08:28pm PT

..........email sent!


:)
:)
:)




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