Fatality on Snake Dike 11/8/15

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 112 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
monolith

climber
state of being
Nov 12, 2015 - 08:47am PT
And don't take your second off belay till you've double checked they are secured to the anchor.
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Nov 12, 2015 - 02:11pm PT
Looking at that picture of her and seeing the dates of her life remind me of my own daughters, although they are a bit older. As I said upthread, everyone who knew her has my sympathy.

John
Daphne

Trad climber
Northern California
Nov 12, 2015 - 02:19pm PT
monolith, really good point We all need to watch out for each other out there.

Condolences to Angela's family, friends and extended tribe. Even though I did not know her, she was a part our climbers family and I mourn her passing.
Largo

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Nov 12, 2015 - 03:35pm PT
So young. So sad. Blessings to all.

JL
johntp

Trad climber
socal
Nov 12, 2015 - 04:02pm PT
What Largo said.

Life can pass so quickly.

Peace and condolenlences to all.
Sarahhh

Social climber
CA
Nov 12, 2015 - 05:35pm PT
I was friends with her in high school, always sat with her at lunch. To find out that SHE died like this is unbelievable because she was literally the kindest person I have ever met in my life (I'm not just saying that, if you had asked me two weeks ago who the kindest person I've ever met is I would have thought of her), SO smart..just so wise and giving and compassionate and was the embodiment of what I wish everyone was. She fully appreciated life and was just.. amazing. The wisdom of an old soul and the child-like wonder of a youngster. Incredible. Her last profile picture on Facebook is of her rock climbing and the caption is: "To be reminded of our mortality; that which leaves the fluttering bird of your heart eager to get out of its cage. I am so grateful."..
Bldrjac

Ice climber
Boulder
Nov 12, 2015 - 07:34pm PT
So sorry to read this. I didn't know her or her friends, but I know their lives will much changed as a result. Life can change in an instant...embrace each moment, and remember to tell your friends and family that you love them...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 12, 2015 - 07:40pm PT
hey there say, dear sarahhh... thank you for sharing how sweet your friend was, and how dearly you remember her...

i did not know her, but, knowing what she loved, and enjoyed,
made her very dear to me, and to all of us...

thank you, and, my prayers for you, as you move on ahead in life, without
her, to share with... :(
Michael Ky

Social climber
Lethbridge, AB
Nov 12, 2015 - 08:58pm PT
Angela and I were TAs in a biology course at UO. I defended my PhD the same day as she defended her Honors thesis. My last email exchange with her was when we wished each other good luck.
We also both received UO Biology Teaching Award in 2013 (I got the grad award and she won the undergrad award). She aspired to be a doctor and we had a few really nice conversations about it because I am a former Navy Corpsman and she wondered if she should join the military to help pay for med school.
She was such a sweet and caring person. She always had a great smile on her face and was extremely smart. Even though we haven't spoke in almost two years, this hits pretty hard.
My condolences to everyone who has ever met her.
Alpine Raven

climber
Eugene, Oregon
Nov 13, 2015 - 04:53pm PT
Angela Uys (pronounced "Ace") was a student here at the University of Oregon. Very sad. She will be missed by many. I work at the UO but didn't know her. Many folks were fond of her. Be safe.

http://registerguard.com/rg/news/local/33711381-75/uo-graduate-dies-over-weekend-in-climbing-accident-at-yosemite.html.csp#disqus-comment-section
HighTraverse

Trad climber
Bay Area
Nov 30, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
I'm so sorry to hear of Angela's death.
It's so very easy to take Snake Dike for granted.
........to take safety for granted
............to take life for granted.

I too have found myself unintentionally not clipped in. I'm sure we all have.

Check, and double check. And if the conditions are sketchy: cold, windy, dark, tired, triple check and as far as possible check your partners.

Karo, speaking with her teammates must have been difficult. I know you gave them some comfort.
Rosamond

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 1, 2015 - 01:32pm PT
A damn sad deal, and a reminder to always remind or teach your proteges or partners that double checking things is always more than just a good idea.
k trout

Social climber
Golden, Colorado
Dec 12, 2015 - 05:06am PT
Was this death was the result of incompetent leadership? Hard to tell. The belayer should not have taken the victim off belay until she had clipped into the anchor twice. Leaning back on one sling is not safe either, but a lot of my rope-guns will disagree.

Not the place for a critique? I climb with an innocent, blonde, 22 year old, psychology student. If something ever happens to her, then I will be the one to blame!

So, how to protect her from the self proclaimed "experts" who have already left her unclipped at belays in Eldo. I came up with a provocative list of dangerous behaviors that indicate it's time for the Partner Finder on Mountain Project:

Your new friend wants you to...

...climb faster. The most likely cause of the Snake Dike accident and many others.

...simul-rappel. Never! Just had a friend get dropped and broken by an unrepentant friend who still insists this is safe.

...simul-climb. An advanced technique and even then only for emergencies.

...rappel clean a pitch. I often hear leaders call up to novices dangling off anchors for the first time: "never let go with your anchor hand!" Make your more experienced friend go up and clean the anchor!

...thread mussy hooks and rappel. If your leader doesn't just clip the hooks and lower off, then that is a problem partner.

...guide-belay. Is your new friend a real guide who knows the ins and outs of this very complicated technique? Or is your caretaker just a lazy belayer in a rush to impress, not taking the time to sort things out? Also, guide style belayers never keep the rope tight enough for their followers.

In a way, the whole sport is partly at fault. The bold-type techniques listed above are being taught by certified guides, espoused by the climbing media, and practiced by 90% of the guys I see at the cliffs.


Studly

Trad climber
WA
Dec 12, 2015 - 09:59am PT
K trout, FYI, some of your suppositions are bullsh#t and inaccurate. Really easy to be a armchair analyst and mountaineer, and place blame.
rlf

Trad climber
Josh, CA
Dec 12, 2015 - 10:05am PT
^^^^^^^^

Agreed. K Trout, don't dispense "knowledge" you clearly don't have.
k trout

Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
Dec 12, 2015 - 10:30am PT
So prove your point! What really happened?
Capt.

climber
some eastside hovel
Dec 12, 2015 - 10:42am PT
Not to mention your re-editing. What happened to your initial part about trying to impress the opposite sex?? This just isn't the place for this.
WBraun

climber
Dec 12, 2015 - 10:50am PT
how are novices supposed to judge

You're a n00b so you have no experience with climbing fatalities.

You have no experience with what people go thru with such a terrible event.

Stop blaming them .....
overwatch

climber
Dec 12, 2015 - 11:17am PT
Yep, egotistical judgmental bulls h i t disguised as wanting to "learn from the accident"

Edit;

Disclose away just not on what is pretty much a memorial thread
monolith

climber
state of being
Dec 12, 2015 - 11:34am PT
It can take months for all the details to come out. Same thing happened after Woody's accident. No one in the know wanted to disclose all the details due to the human error involved.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 112 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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