New FA on El Cap. 09/11/2011

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Messages 1 - 4 of total 4 in this topic
Heisenberg

Trad climber
RV, middle of Nowehere
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 13, 2015 - 04:47pm PT
Trip'n off the Tangerine 5.8, A3,2,1 C-ya.

Didn't really want to write about the new line, but with so much traffic I feel our line needs to be distinguished from the other weak lines around it:

Pitch 1: thin nailing off the ground with deck potential. Up to some hooking, rivets and 5.8 ramp. total death pitch but didn't feel it warranted the A6 rating(A3)
2. More thin nailing. Nothing wider than 3 camelot (A2)
3. More of the same. Really overhung to the corner of a nice roof (A2)
4. Aid out the roof to a clean left arching crack. More overhung than expected. Amazing position (A2)
5. Continue up crack then heads to the right, some hooking ,rivets NTB (A1)
6. Some OW here folks. 5.8 Nothing bigger than a 1 camelot. Trust us, It's fine.
7. Rivet ladder to a penji to some rivets, hooks and free climbing. You'll sh#t your pants here for sure (5.6, A1)
8. More of the same to a nice ledge. Follows a left crack system Kinda boring really (A2)
9. Thin climbing. Nuts and cams (C1) Way overhung. Like Toms Donger. Was super scared here
10. Rivet ladder to hooks. Really scary (A2)
11. More rivet ladder to hooks below a bulge (A2)
12. Aid thru the bulge. Big cams and rivets. Super huge bulge in my pants cause we were close to the summit (A2)
13. Thin climbing in a corner to another blank section. Klaus would have called us light duty (A2)
14. Rivet City baby. (A1)
15. More of the same (A1)
16. You know the pitch. Maybe some free climbing (A1, 5.6)
17. Super High meow. This pitch was 5.7r
18. On the top. Long day here man. got on the summit @ 0100

The next morning during breakfast 2 of us wanted to see a sunrise from the summit. But we got lost and ended up somewhere near the Dawn Wall. Famished from the radness we just did an FA on El Cap we sat down ready to eat breakfast. As he placed the bag of food down it rolled out of the bag.
I was like "Fak!!," not only is this the last of our food, we didn't want to litter or contribute to feeding wildlife " Goddam bag of Tangerines was rolling all over the summit of El Cap

Being as close to the edge that we were; I tripped running after my food.

He was worried that I needed help so he jumped after me.

Caught the Tangerine before it hit the ground. We had a good laugh how lucky we were to bag a FA on El Cap AND not get hurt falling off of it.

Anyone want a topo of the route let us know. It's got some pretty beefy hardware on it.

Disregard any other 2nd hand information you " might " have heard about this new and totally awesome line on the Captain.
Trashman

Trad climber
SLC
Oct 13, 2015 - 05:53pm PT
So proud, only putting crap metal in those holes. Only pussies bother putting solid metal in after they've drilled a hole. It'd have been even more core if you'd left all of them as bathooks, but not everyone's that tough.

I just hope none of those Fresno wankers go up and rename a feature before I get a crack at it. May as well just bolt it took to bottom if you're gonna do that.
Heisenberg

Trad climber
RV, middle of Nowehere
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2015 - 04:38am PT
Approval necessary.

You can climb the route and it's this super lame line called Tangerine Trip.
To do truly a second ascent you have to climb the super lame line and jump El Cap.

Still it waits a second ascent......
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Oct 14, 2015 - 08:02am PT
Pure fiction unless you post a fashion statement photo with said new route in the background.
Messages 1 - 4 of total 4 in this topic
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