Discussion Topic |
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 20, 2006 - 08:25pm PT
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I posted this to another thread, but thought it deserved one of its own. It is not only climbing-related, but some Friday afternoon fun.
There is a "Pink TriCam Webpage" - at http://www.swarpa.net/~danforth/climb/sinkthepink.html
It includes "Ode to a Pink Tricam", by Charles "Pinky" Danforth. Plus some other stuff on the subject.
Just as Camp 4 may be the only campsite in the world to have a book named after it, the pink tricam may be the only piece of climbing equipment in the world to have its own poem.
Anders
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 20, 2006 - 10:02pm PT
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Whut Up,
eDancerPrancerKuh-GirlMontanarinaBallerinaoftheTurnagainarm?
Oh, yah, to my point;
RCA, Kee-Lassic T Meadows 5.8:
Better show up wit' a pink and a red Tri Cam, or show up scared and come up wuh-aay run out!
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blackbird
Trad climber
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Oct 20, 2006 - 10:10pm PT
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...sniffsniff... my pink tri-cam is no more... got left on a route... second FORGOT to clean it... by the time everything was said and done it was too late to go back and get it, and by the time I did get back it was gone...
pink tri-camless (for now) BB
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 20, 2006 - 10:18pm PT
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May the gear lords, um er, -lordettes return you in spades BB.
Hey e Kat,
Yo -those reverse headlight snowstorm faux 'cid trips are knott to be coveted; 'glad you made it back,
Never Mind you the Ana-full-axi-whutever shox -is (not an album by jimi)...
But back to the topic,
Um, Hurumfh;
Ever "try cammin' one"?
ah-ah-ah.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2006 - 10:24pm PT
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Well, this is doing better than my last thread, about reports from secret agents.
My interest in this was piqued (should be peaked, with climbers involved) by a post by Jello on the cams and lurps thread - subjects he knows well. He said he'd heard of a pink tri cam poem, and to help out I googled it - and found not just a poem but a website. Good grief!
Anders
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blackbird
Trad climber
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Oct 20, 2006 - 10:30pm PT
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Thanks, Tar... The rock gives; the rock takes... Everything comes out in the wash, and I've bootied plenty of gear over the years, so I can't be TOO upset... But dangitall, that little piece had some sentimental value and isn't easily replaced!
snifsnifsnif... snif...
I'm through whining now!
BB
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 20, 2006 - 10:53pm PT
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I remember Walt had fixed his on the traverse after the pendulum on Royal Arches. His client could not clean it and Walt went back and couldn't retreive it either. He was bummed about losing it. It was there for several years after Walt passed away and every time I do the route I think about him. The last few times I have done the route it has either been bootied or it is covered with leaves. I miss seeing that thing and used to clip it for sentimental sake.
Ken
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 20, 2006 - 11:00pm PT
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I like to think it's covered with leaves, ready to be reborn, like Walt!
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Aya
Uncategorizable climber
New York
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Oct 20, 2006 - 11:02pm PT
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Oh my. I need to send them the pink tricam shirt I made for myself!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 20, 2006 - 11:30pm PT
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Aya: Is that a real tee shirt! If so, fantastic!
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 20, 2006 - 11:40pm PT
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Blinny, here is some MAGIC for you. I am pretty sure that Werner has it. I have a large portion of Walt's rack and footage I took of him on two different climbs. Every time the wind blows in a strange way I think of him and others.
Ken
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Aya
Uncategorizable climber
New York
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Oct 20, 2006 - 11:40pm PT
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Yes, yes it is.
I drew it myself. I made a few other shirts and things too, though I guess I didn't put the pink tricam shirt into my cafepress shop. I guess I wasn't sure if it violated some kind of copyright or something - I'm still not sure...
Cafepress lets you put pretty much any picture on any item they carry, so it's kind of fun.
My cafepress store
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Oct 21, 2006 - 12:09am PT
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Aya, can you find one of these t-shirts for me. I'll buy it. I'd like to give it as a gift to the inventor, my brother< Greg. He's pretty much out of the loop re: climbing, but I know it would make him feel good!
-JL
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Indianclimber
climber
Las Vegas
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Oct 21, 2006 - 12:12am PT
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Should put the climbing gear filled supertaco on that site
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Aya
Uncategorizable climber
New York
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Oct 21, 2006 - 12:42am PT
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Jello: I can put that on any shirt or mug or whatever. Just let me know - anyone else, too - cafepress is really easy for making this sort of stuff!
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ladd
Trad climber
land of fruits, nuts and flakes
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Oct 21, 2006 - 12:50am PT
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my pinkie has been like a saving grace here in Courtright's wonderland of rocks..
cheers,
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Aya
Uncategorizable climber
New York
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Oct 21, 2006 - 01:55am PT
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Oh, BB - if I do send the dacks boys down your way post-thanksgiving (ha HA the T-Wall is closed that week - so they might go to NC first) I'll send along a pink tricam for you. I've got 5 or 6 of them and I guess I shouldn't, since people hate cleaning them.
I sure do love placing them though!
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sandstone and sky
Trad climber
AK
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Oct 21, 2006 - 03:50am PT
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Blinny -
Where in Montana?
SS
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blackbird
Trad climber
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Oct 21, 2006 - 10:29am PT
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Thanks, Aya! You're a dear! Have the boys get in touch with me if they head towards TW. Surly there's a bit of open time during their trip! I still may try to head up your way this season. I've got that whole week at T-giving. We'll see...
Ciao!
BB
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sandstone and sky
Trad climber
AK
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Oct 21, 2006 - 11:40am PT
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That's a great part of the state. I'm from up that way myself, originally.
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sandstone and sky
Trad climber
AK
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Oct 21, 2006 - 03:23pm PT
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From GF originally, but spent a lot of time in the Park and around Flathead as a yoot.
Right now we're in Anchorage, but we try to spend as little time there as possible :)
I saw a few of your trip reports from earlier this summer - sounds like you had a blast! I'm jealous, I had more of a working summer.
Now back to your regularly scheduled tricam discussion.
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sandstone and sky
Trad climber
AK
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Oct 21, 2006 - 10:57pm PT
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GF isn't the biggest tourist destination in the world, but it has a certain blue collar charm, if you like prairie.
There is actually some fun climbing, if you know where to look. If you get down that way, let me know, it would be fun to see what you think. A lot of it is sandstone, what a surprise.
To stay on topic, I've used plenty of hexes there, but never a pink tricam.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Oct 21, 2006 - 11:15pm PT
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I dont know Aya that first tee shirt
Looks suspiciously like
THE KRAKEN!
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lori
Social climber
CA
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Oct 22, 2006 - 03:55am PT
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Oh, how wonderful!
Just got home from work and cruising ST and find this thread first. I LOVE Mr. Pink. By far my favorite piece and i just replaced the second one last week, (it's best to always have at least two, and one red and that's about it).
The poem(s) remind me of many confidence-boosting placements. I had no idea others revered Mr. Pink as much as myself. Most of my partners can't be bothered and Mr. pink and the red one go on my harness only, never makes it to the gear sling. . .
Thanks for the link Mighty Hiker, I'm off to sleep and dream now of bomber pink tri-cam placements!
aya - love the shirt, that's awesome!
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Mar 26, 2007 - 10:40am PT
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Pinky and "The Brain"...
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 26, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
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this is amazing
pink tricam website !
and
pink tricam t-shirt !
I'm honestly kinda stunned by this...
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Jay Wood
Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
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Mar 26, 2007 - 03:12pm PT
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I'm gonna work on my blue alien poem
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 26, 2007 - 09:49pm PT
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I wanna have fun I wanna make tri-cam art too!!!
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Aya K
Trad climber
New York
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Mar 26, 2007 - 10:21pm PT
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How coincidental to come home and find this thread - I just placed my first two pink tricams of the rock season today - and since it was the gunks, they were BOMBER!!
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 26, 2007 - 10:26pm PT
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The only tricams I've used in the field were bomber too - welded in fact. Fixed with a hammer.
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Gunks Guy
Trad climber
Rhinebeck, NY
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May 31, 2007 - 09:44pm PT
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Many years ago I backed off a route because it started to rain. Being young, foolish, broke, did I mention foolish and broke? I decided to leave as little gear as possible. I was in a little alcove with a perfect sized, parallel sided, pink tricam crack in the top. So I gingerly set the tricam, thread the rope through its webbing and rap. At the bottom I shake the rope a few times and viola, down comes my rope....and my tricam. Probably not one of my brighter stunts, but it did impress my partner...he never would let me set up the rap anchors after that!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I like the .5 so much that I carry two of them along with a 1 & 1.5! Tricams work where other gear does not and allow some truly amazing placements. But there comes a time when that delicate little pink strand of webbing becomes less than rosy to fall on! Most sewing shops will not close webbing loops for you but they will usually do the following modification if a water knot is used.
In order to retain some of the webbing stiffness that is desirable to help maintain position, a bar tack close to the tricam scroll pin and several longitudinal lines of stitching do the trick.
So don't retire those venerable old nuggets just yet! A pretty new ribbon is all that is required. Haven't found pink 1/2" tubular webbing out in the world unfortunately so red is close enough for me.
Much praise to the Russian master mountaineer Vitaly Abalakov, who saw the future in a chunk of flywheel one day and graciously passed his gift of genius along to climbers everywhere expecting nothing in return. He also invented the V thread used by ice climbers everywhere while escaping.
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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Love the shots of the "old ones"--here's some shots of the "new ones"
I dig my 3 "pinks".
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Steve, Abalokov didn't concieve the tri-cam idea. I brought prototypes with me on a trip to Russia in 1974. It was an international climbers camp in the Pamirs hosted by Vitaly (not Segei) Abalokov. I had several long discussions with him about gear, during which we exchanged many ideas. He was particularly interested in the tri-cam idea and traded some titanium pins and biners for the prototypes. Two years later, when a Russian crew visited the North Cascades, they had the Abalokov versions, cut from pulleys. These were not true logarithmic cams offering a constant angle of contact, nor was the concept Abalokov's. He knew my brother Greg had already applied for the patent, therefore his claim of some sort of "pure" motive for offering the idea gratis to the climbing community is total BS. Abalokov clearly had not thought of the idea before I showed it to him in the summer of 1974, years after Greg had begun playing with the concept.
-Jeff
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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I've carried a pinkie or two since the 80s, though I've yet to take a fall on one. They always seem to work where nothing else will. Love 'em.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I stand corrected Jello and backedited his name as well. The "claim" of generosity on his part is more my recollection of hearsay than any actual statement he made. Did you guys respond when the flywheel prototypes showed up in the Alex Bertulis 1978 AAJ article documenting the Soviet first ascents in the Cascades? When did the first Lowe Tricams hit the market? How about the V thread concept origination?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Did tri-cams smaller than pink ever exist?
With the super-skinny dynema webbing around these days, it seems like they would be easy to scale down.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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yeah, but how soon do you need to use 'em before the sling expires?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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I always thought the micro wired Tricams were right around the corner as an aid goodie. I have heard of people making their own but I have never seen one.
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Jude Bischoff
Ice climber
Palm Springs
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Liberals love manly pink tricams! The Courtright companion.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I think the pink should be nixed:
fall and it's gonna be fixed.
The sling becomes junk
the nut is then bunk
and the placement's forever deep-sixed.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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But Rgold, how about
If you could get it out?
And re-use it again
Trusty little pink friend
The fall that it caught
Oddly lodged in its slot
Surely would have been worse
So, reconsider your curse!
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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I'm not sure that anything's worse
than having to argue in verse.
Though your reason's sublime
both metre and time
impose a most unholy curse.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Too funny Rgold. Edward Gorey fan perhaps?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2007 - 05:52pm PT
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Rich and Steve use a pink tri-cam!
Steve and Rich are our men!
But one question I was wondering about,
How do they get the pink tri-cam out?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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If you lever the top
Til the nugget goes pop
Tween the tooth and the stone
Shall your nut tool be prone
For straight out extraction
Pink piece satisfaction
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mojede
Trad climber
Butte, America
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If set tight and right,
when you whip it won't slip.
Remove with a tool, or leave it, you fool.
Tell me where to find,
that pink piece of kind.
It'll go on my rack to go back in a crack.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Fun stuff! I'll try to get Greg, the inventor, to look at this thread. But he's sort of a curmudgeon - not much into the internet thing.
Steve, we never countered Abalakov's claims because we knew he would not try to commercialize the idea. Why bother? We did have a chuckle at the idea he was offering the concept for the general good of climbers, however. That's something Jardine tried to propogate, also. Especially ironic in Jardine's case, since he became rich enough to buy a sailboat and retire to his "Ray Way" world.
I'm doing most of this historical rectification for Greg, who has never really worried about it, being content in his own genius. I personally have no genius, but I've witnessed it.
-NotYetGeniusJello
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Gunks Guy
Trad climber
Rhinebeck, NY
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If you find a wet crack
you’re looking to pack
And the size is the right measure
Then you’ll surely find pleasure
By taking your pink thing
And no! do not fling
But gently insert it
And go for the schwing
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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You mean like theees!
A very young Jim Surette if I am not mistaken getting into the schwing on Swing Time.
Edit: Russ Clune photo from Shawangunk Rock Climbing, Richard Dumais 1985
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Great shot, Steve!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 6, 2007 - 02:11am PT
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I guess now I'm going to have to get a pink tri-cam, and figure them out.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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A Convert! A Convert!
And there was much rejoicing............LOL
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DParker
climber
Orange, California
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If you've ever climbed at Looking Glass (especially in the days before friends), you learned to appreciate the little pink tri-cam!
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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I just went and bought a second one.
Gotta keep the love alive.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice to get a wink from an eyebrow if you get the chance!
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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that's "Lucky Pink Tricam" to you, guys
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Jun 10, 2007 - 12:57am PT
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Hey Steve, here's that pick of the Ablakov you wanted me to post. This is an original Russian item, made from some old pulley or flywheel. Mike Layton took this pic after bootying this puppy on the second ascent of the Soviet Route on the N. Face of Inspiration in the Picket Range of the North Cascades, two or three years ago.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 10, 2007 - 12:16pm PT
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Thanks for posting Off.
Not many chances to check one out needless to say.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2007 - 01:47am PT
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Hmmm, this one hasn't been bumped for a while. And there's a reason to do so - when I was at the Outdoor Retailer trade show in Salt Lake City in August, someone there showed me some prototypes of tiny tri-cams. Smaller than the 0.5, that is. They were apparently near production, so maybe we'll see them in stores soon.
There's nothing on the Camp website about this - www.camp.it
Sizes smaller than 0.5 may be easier to get stuck.
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pimp daddy wayne
climber
The Bat Caves
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Nov 18, 2007 - 02:10am PT
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Wow that is a nice site!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2007 - 01:01pm PT
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Thank you, sween345. Here is the picture from that site:
The text, by vegastradguy from RC.nOOb, is:
"I actually didn’t have an appointment with CAMP this year, but I stopped by just in case something neat was coming out. It’s a good thing I did, otherwise I might well be flayed alive by tricam lovers everywhere. This spring, CAMP is introducing two NEW tricams- the .25 and the .125!
Pretty sweet, eh? They’ll retail at around $17 or $18 and are due out in the spring." (Spring 2008)
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Cassidy
Trad climber
Nova Scotia
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Nov 18, 2007 - 06:20pm PT
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Nice to see some fellow tri-cam users.
In my climbing area I am a singularity in their use.
For one of my partners, Steve, who is particularly tri-cam-phobic I try to place as many as possible - which would be the three I own: pink, red, and brown.
These things fit in where nothing else will. Indispensible.
Sean
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 19, 2007 - 12:07pm PT
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Tiny Tri-cams in the rack
Fit so nicely in the crack -Don Ho-ho-ho
It's about time that the micronuggets showed up commercially. I wonder what it would take to persuade the Camp folks to put them out with a short or tack pocketed sling for aid climbing?
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Mike Layton
Ice climber
bellingham, wa
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Hey look, my booty is in the interwebs!
We were pretty psyched to booty gear placed by soviets in 1977! Old booty, but good booty!
We actually re-used it on the climb a few times! Amazing that the webbing was still good after almost 30 years.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 20, 2008 - 12:06am PT
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I just thought I'd bump a climbing-related thread, albeit a somewhat whimsical one.
Are the .125 and .25 tri-cams on the shelf yet?
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder
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Jun 20, 2008 - 12:14am PT
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I have two pinkys, had 'em for years....Tri-cams are trad Arkansas gear, just in general. I liked the .5 T-shirt, too.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jun 20, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
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There was a gear swap meet at the gym last night and in one pile of old gear offered for sale was a pink tri-cam. We joked about how beloved these things are among certain climbers (nobody we know -- but I'm sure they are perfectly nice people) and after a few minutes of repartee, tossed it back into the heap.
I'm sure you could still buy it for cheap (it didn't sell). But it will cost you dearly to get the name and number of the seller from me.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 10, 2009 - 04:54pm PT
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For all you Tricam lovers-- enjoy!
Chuck Kroger picked up this set of Abalakov cams on the third Soviet climbing exchange around the same time.
Kathy Green donated these to the YCA this summer. The only full set that I have ever seen! Thanks again for your support, Kathy.
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Jan 10, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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Never leave the ground without "The Pink"!!
Thor
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jan 10, 2009 - 10:09pm PT
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Those Abalakov pieces look like he just took a pully wheel of some kind and cut right angle pieces off of it then drilled some holes for cord (and lightening in some)...
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Jan 10, 2009 - 10:22pm PT
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Run those by a geiger
counter....
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Fletcher
Trad climber
the campfire just a ways past Chris' Taco stand
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Jan 11, 2009 - 12:55am PT
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I just got my second pink tri-cam... why have one when you can have two?
Saved my butt many a time.
I also have the next 7 sizes up from the pink and the .25 as well.
I'd not heard of the cleaning issue, but I'm the one who's always placing them... not much of a chance to clean them. But if you have a nut tool and think of it as a kind of SLCD, then it shouldn't be too much trouble.
Derek Starr (aka Roy Naasz) turned me on to them and used to call them the "poor man's Camalot."
Fletch
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MisterE
Trad climber
Raising Arizona
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Jan 11, 2009 - 01:08am PT
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Just recently purchased a VERY dusty full set from the local shop
in Flagstaff. Seemed a bit weird to me, blowing that dust off...
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
I don't even know anymore
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Jan 11, 2009 - 10:01am PT
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Pin tricams have saved my ass a few times in flaring pin scars, kept me from taking the big ride.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 11, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Steel- you got it. Abalakov didn't invent the idea. His genius lay in finding a clean, effective way to render and produce the Tricam design that Jello showed him back in 1975 on the first Soviet climbing exchange.
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Jan 11, 2009 - 02:47pm PT
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Again I say: "A day without a tricam is aday without sunchine."
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Jan 16, 2009 - 12:31am PT
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Rock on. Pink..
Thor
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 14, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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The Boss walking the walk wearing nothing but Tri-cams. I bet it was the one and only ascent done that way!
Anyone have a copy of that "forty eight page 4-color 10th anniversary adventure catalog?"
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 15, 2009 - 01:41pm PT
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Tri-CamJEllO bump!
Happy late St. Valentine's Day to you Jeff!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2009 - 03:37pm PT
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It seems right to bump a thread about pink climbing devices, the day after Valentine's Day.
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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Feb 15, 2009 - 04:53pm PT
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Sink the pink,
they work quite well on north carolina "eye brows" aka looking glass.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Feb 16, 2009 - 01:15am PT
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Hey Mimi, happy belated V-D to you, too. Ohhh??? that didn't come out sounding right. Happy late Valentine's Day!
Who would have thought that these devices, designed by Greg forty years ago and in production for thirty years with almost no design changes, would still find their purpose on climber's racks?
Greg has had a second generation on paper since the early eighties.
-Jello
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adatesman
Trad climber
philadelphia, pa
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Feb 16, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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Second generation??? You drop that and don't even give a hint about how awesome they'd be? You realize just how painful this is for us tricam addicts, don't you?
Such a tease!
;-)
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drapnea
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Feb 10, 2013 - 11:21am PT
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Just picked one up so why not a 4 year bump.
TTT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Feb 10, 2013 - 11:37am PT
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What, Anders didn't delete this thread?? ;)
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DaveyTree
Trad climber
Fresno
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I have a set and love them. Just can't use them passive but active they place faster than a regular can and the wire spring loads it.
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Oct 24, 2018 - 04:47pm PT
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I have a vintage pink tricam, with original sling, which I bought for a specific route that " could not be done without it". I've never placed it, and have no idea where it could be placed. I would be happy to let it go for only $250.
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Aeriq
Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
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Oct 25, 2018 - 06:23am PT
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| Messages 1 - 92 of total 92 in this topic |
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