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DAN DUANE
climber
SAN FRANCISCO, CA
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Saw it last night at the Castro. Awfully good, in my opinion. The Dean tribute is pretty moving, and the Caldwell/Honnold Patagonia traverse segment is astonishing, and comic gold. That may be hard to believe--comedy is not what climbing films are typically about--but Alex and Tommy brought a camera and somehow managed to capture their exhausted partner-to-partner banter in a way that is truly hilarious. This is one of the great partnerships in the history of our sport, on the climbing merits alone. But it turns out they've got this accidental comic repartee that, well ... to hear Alex say to Tommy, as Tommy leads out on one of the countless mind-boggling leads, "Dude, your ice axe is strapped to the back of your pack right now, and it's kind of silhouetted against the sky, and it totally looks like something out of Alpinist Magazine" is ... I don't know. Priceless, somehow. Nicely understated, too--these guys are simul-climbing 5.12 big wall routes with packs on, (on day three or four--I can't remember--Alex is leading 5.11 crack terrain in battered approach shoes and thick gloves while wearing a pack, and doing it FAST) and yet their conversation remains purely humble, friendly, silly, self-deprecating. Quite an experience, just bearing witness.
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Couldn't get in the Yosemite Facelift showing. Will hit it up in Moab in a few weeks.
Susan
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overwatch
climber
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Referring to a manly post that was deleted in typical ST fashion...what's wrong no strength of conviction?
vvvvvvvvvv
I never got the idea you didn't like their work. You asked a legitimate question and voiced an opinion.
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Referring to a manly post that was deleted in typical ST fashion...what's wrong no strength of conviction?
My guess is Patty boy realized the stupidity of his timeline("…hates all movies after 1986" in reference to comments about Dosage(2002-2008 ) and independent films produced this year).
i generally like the products this group puts out, that's why I referenced the style of theirs I enjoy, as well as the trends I like less. Really looking forward to A Line Across the Sky, partially bc the topic seems less likely to be interesting to non-climbers.
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Christine Davies
Trad climber
Tacoma
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I saw it last week in Yosemite and really enjoyed it. I loved the footage from the Fitz Traverse. I was leary about the highball segment, but was gratified that you didn't do what a lot of TV shows do and show all the gratuitous gore of people falling and getting hurt. I was more impressed with that segment than I thought I would be, although there were some rough moments for my gentle soul. I'm looking forward to next year's show with some of our fantastic female climbers.
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Fish Finder
climber
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saw this at Facelift
it Really Rocks x10
Go see it when its in your town
You wont be sorry
The tribute to Dean was well done and I believe you could do a full feature film on his life
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mattyc
climber
boulder
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2015 - 02:21pm PT
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We're glad to hear people are checking it out and enjoying some of the films.
Trashman, we're still looking forward to hearing your review.
Thanks!
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Roxy
Trad climber
CA Central Coast
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hey Reel Rock!! - come to San Luis Obispo!!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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I took advantage of being in New York and caught a train into the City to see Reel Rock 10. I don't think that Reel Rock has been in NE Ohio for a few years. I liked all of the films. Dean's tribute was nicely done.
The Patagonia traverse was very well done--Alex has self-deprecation down pat. (His silent near fall walking on flat snow during the credits was classic.) I don't know who was designing the shots but they were great: Becca and the Fitz in bed, with Tommy's rumpled side open; a nice family shot, panning to include Alex reading a magazine in his single bed two feet away--the climbing life in transition. Tommy's efforts to articulate his struggles to balance his commitment to climbing and his family was refreshing. (in 1982, I canceled a trip to climb a new route on the Moose's Tooth six weeks after my daughter was born and never looked back.)
My father's family is from Arkansas but I will never climb there; someone may film it and it would be used in a Reel Rock exposé. "Honnold fell," echoing through the valley, Recola style.
The highballing film was interesting once it got to Daniel Woods' pulling all the pieces together to complete "The Process." That said, but I don't understand why you didn't have John Gill talk about his climbs in the first person. Maybe John refused.
Now I'll have to time my trips to NY based on Reel Rock's schedule.
Oh, I also met Cedar Wright. Keeping up with my future history is hard, so it was a nice opportunity to met Cedar. As he pointed out he was born about the same time I was winding down. He gently challenged me about why I no longer climb.
Good question. Maybe it is time to look back. Kids are grown.
Good films.
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brian benedon
Trad climber
tucson
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when does the video go on sale?
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Oct 16, 2015 - 12:31pm PT
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Saw it last night in Santa Cruz as only the second grown-up night my wife and I have had together in the last 9 months. Really impressed-not a flop in the bunch.
Caldwell & Honnold in Patagonia was the unanimous best of the bunch with the group we went with. Loved the banter between them; I've had some of those same conversations with my partner (Hmm, it's not my lead? "It's not that bad. You got it!"). My wife was a little stressed by Tommy's observations that having a wife and baby means he need to tone it down, but then going all-out anyways.
My disinterest in the Horseshoe Hell segment was curtailed by conversations here, and they proved accurate. It was really fun, and we like the light-hearted way Honnold was presented as the "villian" (The hummingbird Alex? Really? :p )
Additionally the Dean Potter tribute was well done and not heavy handed, the highball bouldering made my palms sweat and provided some surprisingly raw humanity to Daniel Woods, and the teaser for the Dawn Wall got me revved up to see the full version.
tl;dr Great job guys!
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SC seagoat
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, Moab or In What Time Zone Am I?
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Oct 18, 2015 - 09:13am PT
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Saw it last night in Moab. I'd concur with much of what the previous poster said.
The Fitzroy traverse was amazing. Great chemistry between the two. I was very touched about the insights of Tommy's parenting and engagement in high risk activities. Using sunglasses as an eating utensil...great one. I loved Alex's descent into Alpinism.
Although not being a boulderer I could appreciate the intensity, but that highball stuff. Pretty much in the realm of free solo stuff except probably living to tell about it with shattered body parts. Every land just reverberated through my body.
Going from tears watching the Dean Potter memorial to crazy raucous hilarity on the Horseshoe Hell was quite a ride. It's interesting trying to bridge the gap between the traditional (read old timers) dirtbag fun and the new "Burning Man" dirtbag fun. I haven't caught up yet to the hilarioty aspect of new age dirt bag climbing. But the Mason-Alex "rivalry" was a hoot. As for the Dean Potter tribute I do wish they would have mentioned that he did not die alone. It could have been mentioned in the text credit when it said he died in Yosemite that Graham was with him.
Sometimes I wasn't sure when we were into Reel Rock or watching ads! They've gotten that good!
On a side note, at the Moab showing they had a raffle for everything from Wag bags to calendars....and guess what I finally won something! (Well so did about 40% of the audience...there was that much stuff). I got an awesome 2013 National Public Lands Day t-shirt!
Susan
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