cams before friends, LURPs before ledges

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Messages 41 - 55 of total 55 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Nov 18, 2007 - 05:06pm PT
Ron I hear there are still a few of those relics around. Good they got up a few proud ascents with you.

ORW, sometimes I wished I had kept better records of things but I can’t remember who those climbers were. From what I do remember the guys who did the Troll had some connection with them, either recommended the Fortress to them or visa versa. Good to hear other walls were done as well. Thanks for the interest.

Here’s another shot I have from their trip


Sorry Jeff, don't mean to hijack the LURP thread here :-)
graham

Social climber
Ventura, California
Nov 22, 2007 - 10:57am PT
This is a pretty cool image I received this morning from Stéphane of the “Nuts Museum” in Corsica along with this note.

Please Mike, could you post the attached photo on my behalf on this forum If Jeff Lowe doesn’t find that old SNUG 1972 catalog, here it is…

With best wishes from Corsica,

Stéphane PENNEQUIN

Jeff you remember where the photo was taken? The Lurp tent sure looks nice and light…Beauty!


Happy thanksgiving
zaphod42

Sport climber
Nov 22, 2007 - 11:18am PT
a nice page with alot old nuts, cams etc., and the history behind it:

http://www.needlesports.com/nutsmuseum/camsstory.htm
Jello

Social climber
No Ut
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 11, 2011 - 02:56am PT
Been looking for a year and finally located the original LURP tent that Greg sewed up in 1969. Greg and Rob Kiesel used it on the first winter ascent of the NW face of Half Dome in 1972, then John Ruger and I spent 9 nights in it on the east face of the Moose's Tooth in 1976, 5 of which were stationary at the top of the 25th pitch. Our official reason for backing off the climb was "insufficient toilet paper".

When finally found, the tent was in a little canvas Navy duffle with a cardboard mailing tag, addressed from "Jim Bridwell, Ankorage, AK, to Lowe Alpine Systems, Louisville, CO". It was clear that te bag hadn't been openned since then. It was probably from Jim's and Mugs Stump's Alaska trip when they climbed the east face ot the Tooth with an end-run around to the right to circumvent the lower half of the wall that Ruger and I had done.

The Bridwell/Stump line was more of an alpine climb than a wall so they left the LURP in basecamp. So, it's possible that the tent hadn't seen the light of day since Ruger and I used it in 1976.

Last week Erick Zschiesche and I coaxed the genie out of the bottle in Ogden Canyon, to much delight and hilarity.

We both agreed, the LURP was in near perfect shape; good for many more walls! After I get my brother Greg's signature on it in magic marker next weekend, the tent will go to Ken's Yosemite museum.

Unfortunately I can't seem to upload the photos. I don't want to have to re-do this post, though, so I'll send it. Maybe someone can tell me what I'm doing wrong. When I click on "upload a photo from your computer", nothing happens?

-JelloBURP...er...LURP

EDIT: Thanks, Clint, I'd forgotten how to do it!


Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 11, 2011 - 03:12am PT
Greg,

To upload a photo, find the red "Photos" tab at the top of the page (left of the Forum tab which is grey if you are reading the Forum).
Hover your mouse over the Photos word, don't click on it. A menu will appear below while you hover, with "Upload a photo" on it. Move your mouse down until "Upload a Photo" is highlighted, then click on it. It will prompt you to locate the photo on your hard drive.
Then edit your forum post, click on the blue "Photo" button, and choose "Select a photo you previously uploaded". Then select the photo you just uploaded (or any other that you want).

Stéphane Pennequin has an excellent history of active cams on his site, including the crack jumar of 1967:
http://needlesports.com/NeedleSports/nutsmuseum/camsstory.htm
James Doty

Trad climber
Phoenix, Az.
Sep 11, 2011 - 02:04pm PT
Great thread. Thanks for bringing it back.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Sep 11, 2011 - 03:31pm PT
Jello: Way cool that you folks found that LURP tent and shared the photos.

Classic gear!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 11, 2011 - 05:57pm PT
Nice history lesson Jeff, looking forward to next week.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Sep 11, 2011 - 05:59pm PT
Cool - thanks for sharing the detailed photos.

The main differences between the LURP test and current portaledges seem to be:
 extra crossbar in the middle
 all the bed tensioners
 the trapdoor

My guess is that you would want to tension (at least half of) the bed quite a bit, so that you could sleep without the center crossbar making things uncomfortable? And the tensioning would increase setup/teardown time relative to current portaledges?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Sep 11, 2011 - 06:35pm PT
Stéphane recently sent me these scans of the 1972 Lowe Alpine Systems catalog that Greg sent his way. Perfect spot to post this classic offering!









Thanks Stéphane and Greg!

Jello's observation about the winter NW Face ascent in 72 sets the first portaledge in Yosemite mark! El Cap is another matter unless the LURP lurked there too?!?
martygarrison

Trad climber
Washington DC
Sep 11, 2011 - 07:22pm PT
I got a couple of those constant angle camming concept doohickys at Robbins shop in Modesto. Frankly I didn't care for them much as they seem to take me longer to set that a hex. This could have been because they were new.
Dang I wish I would have kept them!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 2, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
LURP bump!
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 2, 2012 - 01:11pm PT
Yow, I had missed those September updates, how cool!

LURP lives!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Oct 21, 2017 - 06:21pm PT
A LURP in time saves thine...
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Oct 22, 2017 - 04:57am PT
Steve you have me in stiches....
Messages 41 - 55 of total 55 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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